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Thanks! I'm trying to see if I can find a "stock" adapter to go between a 700r4/4l60e and zu auto case. I could transfer my revo gears to the auto case (provided it's within the correct year range) and pop it in behind the 700r4 I've got, and save roughly between one 1-2 billion dollars on adapters and/or gears and upgrades to either a dana 300 or 'yota case. :D

The trailblazer/colorado/canyon had a 4l60e and adapted to some sort of isuzu case (t150 or something like that) but the adapters I've seen pics of don't resemble that...they are more of a pentagonal 5 hole deal. I was hoping for a miracle!

Sorry for the O/T but I had to try and see that shot of the case to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sounds more like a G or a W Yota Case from what you describe. But I'm not 100% familiar with all the details of the auto cases for Yotas and the differences in years.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/tran ... case-bible

also check out lowrange offroad for adapters for the 700r4 or 4L60 to a yota case - possibly might be the solution for you.
we can solve your drivetrain issue here now that you are local!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I was in LKN for a few years, then Uwharrie and lake Tillery (both in Montgomery county) and now in Concord/Harrisburg, NC just outside of Charlotte.
I work in CLT. Been here in NC for almost 15 years.

Van is down near you and Kurt is near you. You guys need to link up.
Kurt runs Certified Import Repair on Old John Dodd Rd and probably is the closest thing to Jerry you can get without going to ATL.
:)
Thx
 

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Small world, I used certified import years ago when my timing belt went on my first car ( 92 Integra ls). I'll have to swing by his shop when I get my 89 trooper back on the road, hopefully in a couple weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Okay so After picking up this project off and on for almost a year now, I have figured out why the damn case won't close.
I had to drive down to ATL and visit with Jerry to figure out what was going on.
It turns out that not only was there two different clutch hub slider sets over the years on the main shaft BUT there was also two different output rear shaft tooth counts.
47 and 49 on the tailhousing.
I have a mismatched set of Revo Gears from Independent 4x.
The low gear on the main shaft matches the hub sliding clutch tooth count but the Idler gear (the bigger center gear) that I have is for a 47 tooth count output.

I don't know the years that any of this changed but jerry had two different rear outputs for the main shaft. A 47 and a 49 tooth count.
The 47 tooth count rear output fit perfect on the Idler (revo) gear I had installed.
However its tooth count for the clutch hub slider thingy was not the same as what I had on my main shaft or on the low gear that goes on the main shaft input.

There are (hopefully) two idler Revo gears available: 23 and 26 spline at the small end. The 3.07 end is the same regardless.

We held a loose part 47 spline output up the case and here is what it looks like:
47 spline count rear output (top) fits the Idler (center) but the idler doesn't mesh perfect with the 4wd (bottom)
it turns but when you install the rear clamshell, nothing moves because the tooth counts are off!


This is a 49 spline output loosely held up to the idler (revo) gear and you can see it doesn't fit on either side, which is my current situation when you tighten everything down.


If I am not doing a good job of describing this, please let me know..
Anyhow so now I am going to call Matt and Inde4x and see if I can swap out the Idler for 26 spline count one that goes with the 49 tooth count shafts.


I may need to edit this if I got any of my numbers wrong on the counts but we are sure that there are two different shaft tooth counts: 47 and 49.
Which means there has to be two different Idler gear counts as well to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Okay change in plans after talking to Matt at Inde4x.

Scrap everything I said above about mismatched set of Revo gears.
Turns out I have a correct matched set for a 92-96 auto case.

23 spline on the small end of the idler gear - which matches the 47 tooth count on the rear output gear which also matches the 48 tooth count on the front output 4wd gear.

The junk yard gave me a stick shift transfer case from a 97 - which just so happens to have gears from a 98 in it.
Jerry said must be only a few of them because he hasn't seen this before.
I should've counted the teeth on the idler on the case when I got it but I didn't even know that there two different Revo gears to get!
So turns out this 97 case has some 98 parts and since I had an extra case that was from a 96 auto, I simply swapped out the 50 tooth 4wd front output gear for the 48 tooth gear and then put the 96 rear cover on.
Bingo - done.

There are 3 major breaks in years:
up to 91 had 47 teeth on the rear output but different clutch hub synchro count than the 92-96 on the main shaft. The idler is still 23 spline and the 4wd shaft is 48 teeth.
the 92-96 has the 47 teeth on the rear output and 48 on the 4wd gear and 23 on the idler shaft, but the synchro is different than the 91 and older.
Then there is the 98+ which has the 49 teeth on the rear output and 26 on the idler shaft and 50 on the 4wd output. The synchros appear to be the same for the main shaft!

47 tooth rear output: (this is the rear case I used to put it all together)


49 tooth rear output from the 97 case I had:


Here are the 23 and 26 teeth idler gears next to eachother:


Here is the 50 tooth 4wd output I took out of the case to swap to the older 48 tooth.


Here is the 48 tooth 4wd output I took out of the 96 case and put into the one I have the Revo installed on:


The main shaft hub clutch synchro fits on both rear cases the same! (the inner teeth are the same count/pitch)



And it all together shifting nicely.
[BBvideo 800,450:21uge70x]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WahmLGyDcF0[/BBvideo]

I'm gonna pull my exhaust and then the current case I have in my truck and put this one in there once I get it sealed up!
:albino: :bigsmurf:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Decided to go all the way since I had time and hell it is "Labor Day" weekend.
Time to put in some Work!

I disconnected and pulled 3 of 4 my O2 sensors and laid them out of the way, then sprayed my exhaust bolts to help them come off easier




Then I took all the bolts off the rear output from the driveshaft and the front out put and moved them out of the way.
The rear driveshaft is long enough, the forward portion can touch the floor. The front driveshaft just laid up in the trans cradle.

Pulled my shifter boot off and unbolted the two bolt shifter.


Supported my case with jack and some wood to help keep things even while I get all the bolts out.


Got it out and yes it is heavy.
I'd say it helped having a lifted truck just high enough but not higher than my arms at full extension benching this thing up and down.


I greased the shaft and then put a thin layer of sealant around the mating surface before I put my "new" case in position.

almost there, time to get it lined up and tightened down. I have some new metric 10.9 bolts to hold it all together.


And after another few hours of getting the exhaust back in and the driveshafts back in and tightened down.... Boom.
This project is finally over. I even slapped a sticker on it.


I'm super pleased with this so far.
I tested the Low gear in my driveway, with the hubs unlocked and I can not believe how low it is.
I popped the clutch and the truck lurched! So the second time, I let it out slow with no gas and my truck crawled up the driveway without any gas pedal.
:bigsmurf:

Can't wait to take this thing back out to the woods.
 

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Thanks for the pictures. Great work for others to copy. Glad it worked out for you. Should be a Hall of Fame topic. Good job,Tony :D
 
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Awesome man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·

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Been throwing in a 3:1 kit in my 93 Trooper. I still have the case rear half off, but everything is finally moving the way it's supposed to. I jammed the transfer case shifter in there and it is all moving the way it did before I tore everything out. For sure I used a mix of several threads here, the PDF 95 service manual someone took the time to scan and share with the world, and just playing around with the gears with the case open so I knew how it all worked before I took it apart. But I'd say this thread helped me a ton, even though I had an MUA5. Tons of pics here, and lessons learned. I can't emphasize enough how all three gear/shafts need to be put in simultaneously. The new idler gear really takes up all the room. And the interlock pin and spring! **** that little thing. Again, that was a step where I had to slow down and make sure I knew how everything works, then it made sense. I'll dump all my pics and learnings into a thread someday. I'm still months from being on the road. But thanks for sharing your suffering, if nothing else so that I know I am not alone.

And anyone who tries this without removing the unit, you are nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
This is probably the best post I helped write Instructions on how to install revo gears in an isuzu

but yea totally need to get the gears in all three at the same time, pause and then get the spring pin and the rails in the correct position.
then keep going.

glad these could help.
 
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