I believe you have thermo quiet. I think they are ceramic which is the latest and greatest. Mainly because they make less dust than semi metallics. I had those on the rear and they SUCKED! AS A MATTER OF FACT THE ONLY BRAKE PARTS THAT SUCK MORE THAN WAGNER ARE RAYBESTOS. Sorry I had to rant. I have just removed 3 stuck and dragging WAGNER POS CHINESE MADE CRAP CALIPERS from my truck. The 4th one was replaced on the road early last spring because it seized up while driving. 20k miles and 2 years old and they were all toast. F*** OFF and DIE WAGNER!!!!!!!!!!!!
I despise replacing stuff I just replaced because some cheap a**ed company Doesn't see fit to make a decent product. I will never buy Wagner or Raybestos again.
Now that I've got that out of my system this is what Red Beans looks like under the front end on both sides this evening.
Here is the rear brake install.
The old "powerstop" rear drilled rotors. I had them turned and then took a drill bit to clean up the chamfers at each drilled hole.
Beautiful lightly used OEM Isuzu rear calipers.
The pads I'm using on the rear are "Rofren" brand semi metallics I bought off EPAY. Italian made.
I cannot stress this enough. Twice a year lube these 2 points with silicone disc brake caliper grease.
Float pin.
Bolt slider. remove it grease it and reinsert.
Caliper installed. alng with new pads and E-brake cables.
Also well oiled leaf springs.
Today I tore down the front end. I usually don't have problems with the "Superwinch" hubs but had to drill out 3 bolts on the pass side. I used a soft cheap allen wrench and it spun. I thought the hub was loose and smacked it with a mallet and cracked the flange on the housing. GREAT!
Removing tapered bolts.
Drilling out the tapered bolts. Use a drill bit the same size as the threaded part. Wait till they are all loose and don't smack the hub with a mallet.
When done drilling the body should pull off and leave this. I removed them with my fingers.
Next remove the snap ring and the big allen bolts. Note the block of wood against the wheel stud to keep the wheel hub from turning.
Now you can get to the bolts holding the rotor on. Same block of wood. 14mm head bolts.
Here is a special picture. These are the factory autohub service tools that I bought not long after I bought my 1st Trooper.
Tool on left is clutch alighnment tool and of course the fish scale.
Big handle and driver for the rear seal and for the bearing races.
2 pin hub adjusting tool.
Short round tool on right is a shim gauge for auto hub shims. The long handle screws into the axle for pulling and then you slide a snap ring down the handle and use the long tube on top right to push the snap ring into place down that handle.
Junk brake caliper has been removed and now I remove the bearing retainer.
Pull off the hub assembly with the loosely bolted rotor and set on bench.
What's left is a clean spindle.
The rubber boots on the Indy4x tie rods haven't held up to well. They sent me new poly ones I hope they are better. I unbolted and removed both tie rods. They came loose pretty easy. They need to be cleaned and painted again.
Now that the rotors are unbolted time to take the tension off the torsion bars. The rusty piece in the pic is the transfer skid plate. Needless to say the "Duplicolor" bedliner didn't work out too well.
Now the fronts of the TBs.
All my Ball joints are new and good. Unbolting the lower ones from the lower A arm. 4 bolts.
Since I had already done the BJ flip it was just 4 bolts to remove the upper BJ. No need to remove either BJ from the steering knuckle.
Now just pull the steering knuckle on BJs off the axle shaft carefully.
I then removed the big clamp on the inner boot and pulled it back. I used a small screwdriver to remove the wire retainer ring inside the lip of the "SOUP CAN" and removed the axles. This is what I call the soup can.
I then stuffed a rag in it to keep it clean.
Torsion bar in the floor complete with adjuster key and A arm mount. This is the stock TB.
I had to install them in the early spring. I came out from work and found thedrivers side front end of my Trooper on the ground. I looked under and found this.
I came back to work in my Honda with my jack and the stock tbs and changed them in the parking lot. Indy4x and Sway Away both were really concerned and the new replacements were at my house 2 days later. It seems these were part of a bad run where a sub had over heat treated the bars. I believe the remaining bad bars have all been destroyed. I'll be happy to get the new ones on. I've been putting it off because of this other work I was going to do under the front.
Here is another problem from today. I had to cut 2 of my handmade SS brake hard lines. You really have to tighten SS to get the flares to seat. And that to the rust on my SS? flex lines and I couldn't break this joint on either side of the truck. Now I will have to replace the flex lines and re bend (make new) my hard lines.
Tomorrow I'll have to go to Sears by work and get a 27mm combination wrench to remove the rear bolt on the lower control arm. There is not enough room for a socket without dropping the front diff. The good news is I was able to remove one of the front bolts from the lower A arms and it wasn't rusted into the bushing.