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Rebuilt Tranny crank pulley turns an inch

2K views 40 replies 3 participants last post by  Troopinit 
#1 ·
Just got the rig... Runs good. After I carefully and slowly rebuilt the tranny, steels and frictions, shift kit and cooler. Put it in and almost started then stopped.🤔 So I tried tuning the crankshaft and it only moves about an 1" either way... So I need some assistance if you folks don't mind 😬 I do appreciate it
 
#28 ·
Orifice #22 is for the servo release fluid, #19 is fo servo apply fluid.
It appears from the directions that you placed a plug at the #22 location in step 3.
Does this plug actually block the #22 orifice?
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#30 ·
Did you drill out and thread the 2nd clutch and 4th clutch apply pressure ports and the servo apply and release pressure ports when you rebuilt the transmission?
Any idea how big the hole is in the plug you installed?
 
#31 ·
I didnt thread anything I know that. As far as drilling, I just drilled out the holes that step 5 had me drill. I don't know the hole size I can find out. I'll try calling superior or check when I get home... I know it is touch under 1/8" I really appreciate all your knowledge
 
#38 ·
Drilling and threading the additional diagnostic pressure ports is something you can do when you have the transmission disassembled for rebuild.
You can also drill and modify the main case to add an AFT dip stick, there is a discussion in the forum on this mod.
The transmission has to be in the truck with the engine running to have the hydraulic oil pump make line pressure.
 
#39 ·
Well, I pulled that tranny three times. Pulling it a fourth time to drill and tap holes was too many times... I discovered that the bell housing was warped this last time. Maybe that's why my brake band gave up. It didn't seem logical to keep trying to figure out this auto. Cut my losses.

So I found a grade "A" ar5 manual with tcase for 600.00 shipped. I went through this forum and gathered all the parts needed. I really want to thank you buster for helping me with your expert advise. Through all the threads your wiring diagrams, ect has helped me with the manual conversion as well.

So I ground the manual slightly and slid the TOD case in. Installed fly wheel clutch and all that. Went to install the manual and realized there wasn't a release fork.😱 That's when Jerry came to the rescue!! Received it in the mail, found a bushing and installed it.

I then made a clutch pedal. Used a wilwood bracket, and used the pedal I made. Someone on this forum told me he uses this pedal assembly on all his swaps. I did at first but there is no way!!! The wilwood pedal shoots straight into the foot rest to the left... No way. So used a hanger and copied the brake curvature and welded one up. Works perfectly. You can't find stock pedal assemblies anywhere. You also can't find clutch lines... So I used a hard line and bent it up and test fitted it like 400 times. Not bad but I didn't want it near the exhaust. Then I used a 99 Subaru Forester stainless braided line with the banjo bolt and it fit perfect. Ordered a manual computer for it but haven't installed it yet.

Anyway, it drives awesome. Drove about 1000 miles so far and it's great. Just got back from towing my snow mobile and family and dog on a 400 mile round trip. I'm talking going up mountain grade hills in 4th @2500rpms going 55-60. Couldn't believe it. I've had 1st gen 4 runners geared, Xterra, Pathfinder, grand Cherokee, expedition, old scout with Mercedes diesel swap, ect.. this trooper is the best mpg to power combo out of all of them. Oh yeah and I have 285/75/16s on. I'm couldn't be happier. Thank you buster and Jerry💪
 
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