Rainbows 1999 Trooper Build
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Pretty in the way. Flipping the spare mount isn't hard and no cutting was required on mine after flipping it. Now it is not in the way at all. There is another great thread where I stole the idea from with more pictures. Again, he had to trim the mount to fit the rear wiper, I did not have to trim at all and have used the rear wiper many times since flipping the mount with no issues and full motion.
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=94929
Do not let this be the reason you don't get 285's. This is literally the easiest mod I have done while upgrading wheels and tires.
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=94929
Do not let this be the reason you don't get 285's. This is literally the easiest mod I have done while upgrading wheels and tires.
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47 Posts
Welp, my high idle cause from another thread has been located. http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=98025
The lower intake manifold gasket is shot. It all comes apart in the workshop tomorrow and get's replaced. This delayed my mod I was working on to post as all parts are in. However, it will likely get posted with pics tomorrow along with the gasket issue and solution.
The lower intake manifold gasket is shot. It all comes apart in the workshop tomorrow and get's replaced. This delayed my mod I was working on to post as all parts are in. However, it will likely get posted with pics tomorrow along with the gasket issue and solution.
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47 Posts
Also this week, I went to look at (and buy) a 4jg2t. I love diesels and as I keep adding weight (lots more to come), my rig begs for it. I love the mileage, I love the smell, I love the torque, I absolutely love the sound of a tractor. I found 4jg2t for a good price locally and that's what I was going to buy this week for a swap. However, after seeing the real life numbers (hp/torque) I get from it, and figuring it will be hard to tune (electronic injection) and even harder to repair (parts overseas only), for the money I may just have to look further.
I have been researching the heck out of diesel swaps for this thing. Issue is, fitment without a diff drop. Finding a diff drop seems like work nowadays and I may just do SAS at the same time as the swap. The other issue is the 4jg2t which is pretty much a drop in swap (minus different mounts) just doesn't seem like a big enough upgrade. My gasser works great and has good numbers other than economy. A bunch of money for tractor noise and smell maker doesn't seem work it without the torque to back it up.
I really like the 5.2 npr motors and for a 4 banger they pump some serious numbers out. They likely will never fit without a full time hood removal in my trooper, which isn't happening. The 4bt is the next likely candidate. However 6 grand to make it work due to all the popularity is some serious cash.
A 4jb1t is somewhat attractive with common rail, but I'd need to find a lower mileage one and then swap the turbo to make decent numbers. I have a built subaru STI and so my original top mount intercooler is ready for whatever turbo diesel gets dropped in eventually. It's just a matter of finding the right fit.
I'm now taking all suggestions on diesels that may fit the bill. I want to go SAS and 37"s down the road, and I want to be able to drive it on the street. I fully realize I won't get 30mpg at that point, but at least I won't get 10mpg or less and I'll drive a tractor regularly
I have been researching the heck out of diesel swaps for this thing. Issue is, fitment without a diff drop. Finding a diff drop seems like work nowadays and I may just do SAS at the same time as the swap. The other issue is the 4jg2t which is pretty much a drop in swap (minus different mounts) just doesn't seem like a big enough upgrade. My gasser works great and has good numbers other than economy. A bunch of money for tractor noise and smell maker doesn't seem work it without the torque to back it up.
I really like the 5.2 npr motors and for a 4 banger they pump some serious numbers out. They likely will never fit without a full time hood removal in my trooper, which isn't happening. The 4bt is the next likely candidate. However 6 grand to make it work due to all the popularity is some serious cash.
A 4jb1t is somewhat attractive with common rail, but I'd need to find a lower mileage one and then swap the turbo to make decent numbers. I have a built subaru STI and so my original top mount intercooler is ready for whatever turbo diesel gets dropped in eventually. It's just a matter of finding the right fit.
I'm now taking all suggestions on diesels that may fit the bill. I want to go SAS and 37"s down the road, and I want to be able to drive it on the street. I fully realize I won't get 30mpg at that point, but at least I won't get 10mpg or less and I'll drive a tractor regularly
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47 Posts
Lot's to update after putting the Trooper under the knife most of the day yesterday.
Had a high idle issue that I needed to resolve and a check engine light throwing a cat code. Wondered if they were related. I had previously tried replacing lots of parts that were simple with no long term affect to the high idle. Cross thread for reference http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=98025
Last week I looked at the gaskets around the manifold and sprayed brake cleaner all around to test for vacuum leaks. I found a pretty large chunk of the lower manifold gasket was literally hanging out of the manifold. It was like whoever installed it did so with zero regard to lining the gasket up first. Huge leak, obviously at least a part of the high idle issue (probably also affecting mileage and power). I have no idea how I didn't see this prior.
Really guys? Job well done on this install. I hope you didn't get paid for this.
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Intake manifold had to be removed. Least I get to wrench.
Had a high idle issue that I needed to resolve and a check engine light throwing a cat code. Wondered if they were related. I had previously tried replacing lots of parts that were simple with no long term affect to the high idle. Cross thread for reference http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=98025
Last week I looked at the gaskets around the manifold and sprayed brake cleaner all around to test for vacuum leaks. I found a pretty large chunk of the lower manifold gasket was literally hanging out of the manifold. It was like whoever installed it did so with zero regard to lining the gasket up first. Huge leak, obviously at least a part of the high idle issue (probably also affecting mileage and power). I have no idea how I didn't see this prior.
Really guys? Job well done on this install. I hope you didn't get paid for this.
Intake manifold had to be removed. Least I get to wrench.
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47 Posts
Since both upper and lower gaskets come in the same set, I figured I would crack it all open and clean all carbon buildup.
Everything getting unplugged, loosened, and disconnected.
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Manifold out. You can clearly see in this picture, neither gasket is aligned correctly.
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Manifold needs to be dissembled to clean carbon buildup breaking the upper intake gasket which wasn't leaking.
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Fuel rail has to come off, though a few other mounts prevent this and also need to be removed.
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Cracked open the manifold, upper and lower both have carbon buildup but not as bad as I would have thought.
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The gasket was not easy to remove. Parts of it had fused together with the manifold. After an hour of razor blade work, I burned the the last of the gasket that wouldn't come off with a torch and it scraped right off. I removed as much of the carbon as I could with brake cleaner and rags, then hit it after this photo with degreaser and got all the deeper trouble spots.
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New upper gasket put in place. The upper and lower intake manifold gaskets come as a set. I bought the Felpro made ones on recommendations from others on the forums. The were about 45 dollars for the set locally and readily available in stock from O'reily's. I manage to scrape up the manifold metal with the razor, so we used a thin layer of rtv silicone to make sure the gasket seated without leaks.
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Lower Felpro gaskets in place. I like these so much better than the stock ones. No cheap metal borders and generous amounts of gasket depth and width to really ensure a great seal.
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My buddy putting on the engine cover after everything was hooked back up. He is a full time mechanic and babysat me during all this. What a champ.
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She fired right up after a ecu reset. No check engine anymore, no high idle. Pride in workmanship, and 80 mph all the way home from our workshop. Ran like a top. Idle sits 900-1000 with compressor off and idle in gear no longer tries to go 20mph. I'm sure the mileage will improve and I feel better every time I fire it up now. It took me longer than I wish, but the benefits and cost to doing it myself can't be beat.
Everything getting unplugged, loosened, and disconnected.
Manifold out. You can clearly see in this picture, neither gasket is aligned correctly.
Manifold needs to be dissembled to clean carbon buildup breaking the upper intake gasket which wasn't leaking.
Fuel rail has to come off, though a few other mounts prevent this and also need to be removed.
Cracked open the manifold, upper and lower both have carbon buildup but not as bad as I would have thought.
The gasket was not easy to remove. Parts of it had fused together with the manifold. After an hour of razor blade work, I burned the the last of the gasket that wouldn't come off with a torch and it scraped right off. I removed as much of the carbon as I could with brake cleaner and rags, then hit it after this photo with degreaser and got all the deeper trouble spots.
New upper gasket put in place. The upper and lower intake manifold gaskets come as a set. I bought the Felpro made ones on recommendations from others on the forums. The were about 45 dollars for the set locally and readily available in stock from O'reily's. I manage to scrape up the manifold metal with the razor, so we used a thin layer of rtv silicone to make sure the gasket seated without leaks.
Lower Felpro gaskets in place. I like these so much better than the stock ones. No cheap metal borders and generous amounts of gasket depth and width to really ensure a great seal.
My buddy putting on the engine cover after everything was hooked back up. He is a full time mechanic and babysat me during all this. What a champ.
She fired right up after a ecu reset. No check engine anymore, no high idle. Pride in workmanship, and 80 mph all the way home from our workshop. Ran like a top. Idle sits 900-1000 with compressor off and idle in gear no longer tries to go 20mph. I'm sure the mileage will improve and I feel better every time I fire it up now. It took me longer than I wish, but the benefits and cost to doing it myself can't be beat.
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47 Posts
Absolutely true. It's was even better this morning when I drove to work across the city and my mpg was up almost 4 mpg. :twisted:chimpboy said:
Just got around to rereading your posts. Yes, I really like the installation of your android device. I don't recall anyone else even trying that, and yours really looks good. If it operates as good as the installation looks then you have a real winner there.RainbowSprinkles said:
Curious, where in Dallas are you? I'm over in Lewisville
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47 Posts
I live in Frisco and work in Dallas proper (where we work on cars mostly). We should meet up, I would love to check out your RS sometime.itsmehb said:
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47 Posts
While I was pulling the manifold I spent some time on my new snorkel install.
This project was about what I expected. I ordered the snorkel for the 4JX1T-EI/3.0 LITRE-I4 4JG2-T/3.1 LITRE-I4 engine. It is hundreds and hundreds cheaper than buying the ready-fit ARB version for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquor-Jacka...id=1484680213&sr=8-1&keywords=snorkel+trooper
I knew there would be some customizing the internal piping to make it fit the stock intake on the 3.5L and I anticipated the amount of work would be higher given the price point.
Quick, everyone wave goodbye to my pretty stock paint and clear coat on my quarter panel. Before:
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I knew from the start, my easiest bet was to try and keep the stock intake box in play and in the stock location, but that may not be possible.
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Pulling the intake box is simple. Unclip the 4 clamps that hold the top to the bottom, pull the air filter, and unbolt the 3 bolts that bolt the bottom of the box to the chasis.
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Popping the wheel well off isn't bad if you don't mind the dreaded push through clips.
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There is another stock pipe piece that is in the wheel well that is just a 90 degree and has a bunch of air filter on the front. I didn't end up using it in the final snorkel install.
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Fitting the pieces from the snorkel kit together isn't hard, but fitting the piping to the 3.5L stock airbox is another story.
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Pre cut stencil for outer fender came with the kit.
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Pause for station identification. My buddy Juan stole my phone and snapped a pick of us working. Me in the blue and my business partner in the back working on his RX-7.
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My favorite tool in any garage, the Dremel. They begged to use a hole saw and I told them to buzz off. Gimme a dremel and enough teflon blades and I can take the world apart 1 cut at a time.
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Holes cut, panel ruined :twisted: After sanding clean the cuts, time for engine primer to prevent rust. Another area the dremel shines.
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Pillar mount came in the kit and needed two holes drilled for rivets. I also 3M doubled stick taped the entire thing to the pillar to keep keep from scratching paint and prevent vibration.
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So pretty. Snorkel mounted.
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Now time for the hard part. Making the internals fit.
After LOTS of measuring, the template they gave me kept the snorkel too close to the front, meaning the internal connection from snorkel to box was an inch long. Since moving the snorkel was out of the question (also moving it to fit would have angled it very oddly and looked wrong), I opted to expand the internal hole and fit the box ton the connector.
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Stock box inlet is not round and therefore no luck with easy watertightness. Lots of silicone solved that pretty quickly.
![]()
Stock box had to be angled a bit to fit watertight. On the other end the snorkel and connector were drilled in middle of connection and bolted together through the middle to seal them tight. I added cut vacuum tubing around the hole of the connector and greased it to seal in completely tight with the snorkel through the panel. Worked well.
Had to reset the ECM to get the right air to fuel ration but you can now put your hand up top through the window while driving and feel it sucking through the snorkel perfectly. Running like champ. More pics to come with the snorkel. Hopefully put it to use sooner rather than later.
This project was about what I expected. I ordered the snorkel for the 4JX1T-EI/3.0 LITRE-I4 4JG2-T/3.1 LITRE-I4 engine. It is hundreds and hundreds cheaper than buying the ready-fit ARB version for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquor-Jacka...id=1484680213&sr=8-1&keywords=snorkel+trooper
I knew there would be some customizing the internal piping to make it fit the stock intake on the 3.5L and I anticipated the amount of work would be higher given the price point.
Quick, everyone wave goodbye to my pretty stock paint and clear coat on my quarter panel. Before:
I knew from the start, my easiest bet was to try and keep the stock intake box in play and in the stock location, but that may not be possible.
Pulling the intake box is simple. Unclip the 4 clamps that hold the top to the bottom, pull the air filter, and unbolt the 3 bolts that bolt the bottom of the box to the chasis.
Popping the wheel well off isn't bad if you don't mind the dreaded push through clips.
There is another stock pipe piece that is in the wheel well that is just a 90 degree and has a bunch of air filter on the front. I didn't end up using it in the final snorkel install.
Fitting the pieces from the snorkel kit together isn't hard, but fitting the piping to the 3.5L stock airbox is another story.
Pre cut stencil for outer fender came with the kit.
Pause for station identification. My buddy Juan stole my phone and snapped a pick of us working. Me in the blue and my business partner in the back working on his RX-7.
My favorite tool in any garage, the Dremel. They begged to use a hole saw and I told them to buzz off. Gimme a dremel and enough teflon blades and I can take the world apart 1 cut at a time.
Holes cut, panel ruined :twisted: After sanding clean the cuts, time for engine primer to prevent rust. Another area the dremel shines.
Pillar mount came in the kit and needed two holes drilled for rivets. I also 3M doubled stick taped the entire thing to the pillar to keep keep from scratching paint and prevent vibration.
So pretty. Snorkel mounted.
Now time for the hard part. Making the internals fit.
After LOTS of measuring, the template they gave me kept the snorkel too close to the front, meaning the internal connection from snorkel to box was an inch long. Since moving the snorkel was out of the question (also moving it to fit would have angled it very oddly and looked wrong), I opted to expand the internal hole and fit the box ton the connector.
Stock box inlet is not round and therefore no luck with easy watertightness. Lots of silicone solved that pretty quickly.
Stock box had to be angled a bit to fit watertight. On the other end the snorkel and connector were drilled in middle of connection and bolted together through the middle to seal them tight. I added cut vacuum tubing around the hole of the connector and greased it to seal in completely tight with the snorkel through the panel. Worked well.
Had to reset the ECM to get the right air to fuel ration but you can now put your hand up top through the window while driving and feel it sucking through the snorkel perfectly. Running like champ. More pics to come with the snorkel. Hopefully put it to use sooner rather than later.
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2,371 Posts
The 4JB1-T is not a common rail engine. It is direct injection, not the same thing at all.RainbowSprinkles said:
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47 Posts
Ah, yes, misspoke. Thanks.
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She was back on the lift tonight. I had another EGR code pop. Brand new EGR and I just cleaned the entire manifold. My idle was also acting weird (high but not as high as before and moving around, not constant).
I thought I heard an exhaust leak, so put it back on the lift. Sure enough, right in front of the muffler behind the cats, the top bolt was missing from the connection. The exhaust gasket was long gone. No good pics of all this as I was in a hurry to make an exhaust gasket and bolt it all back up.
Seems like the EGR code may stay off now after putting in my new gasket and putting in two new bolts. Time will tell, but no code after driving home.
Here's a pic of the rig on the lift. Looking better and better.
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I thought I heard an exhaust leak, so put it back on the lift. Sure enough, right in front of the muffler behind the cats, the top bolt was missing from the connection. The exhaust gasket was long gone. No good pics of all this as I was in a hurry to make an exhaust gasket and bolt it all back up.
Seems like the EGR code may stay off now after putting in my new gasket and putting in two new bolts. Time will tell, but no code after driving home.
Here's a pic of the rig on the lift. Looking better and better.
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47 Posts
I dig it! Lookin' good
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Not once I cut the corners of the flares on the bottom and cranked up the torsion bars a bit. I'd get the 929 springs if I went back to get a bit higher in the back during compression and I would have issues if I hadn't put the 1.5" spacers in back to be able to bring up the front even more. Even prior, the only rubbing was under compression in reverse at full lock.
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