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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will I need to jack up the front of the truck to replace the front shocks? I know I can do the rear without any jacking.
 

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I didn't have to and I found that it didn't help much to remove the tires.

The only benefit of putting it on stands migth be that you can sit upright on a chair while you do the job, rather than hunch into the wheel well.
 

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What about replacing all four shocks on a '96 Rodeo? It's not lifted, and I don't have a jack that can lift this truck up. I need to replace all four.

Any shock recommendations as well? I'd like something that is good for about 90% street and 10% off road driving.
 

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Tip, One of the rear upper shock retaining bolts (I believe drivers side) is prevented from sliding out by a small cover plate. I used a long extension and removed the bolt on the cover plate closest to the shock. Then, you can twist it out of the way enough to remove the upper retaining bolt. Otherwise it's a smooth mod.
 

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Definitely put some liquid wrench or other product on those bolts for a few days every night before you go to actually removing the shocks.

You'll save a lot of skin on your knuckles!

If things get really bad use a nut splitter and you're all set. Don't waste time fighting it because it's going in the garbage anyway. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can't get the top bolt off either of the rear shocks :x

Bought a different socket (one that fits my breaker bar) hopefully that'll work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, I know nothing about nut splitters. What are they? How do they work? Where can I get one?

It appears to be my only reasonably priced option (I don't want to pay someone to do it)
 

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You can get one cheap in Sears. It is a small device that is about the size of a bottle opener and shaped a little bit like one.

It has a hardened steel wedge on one side and a bolt on the other to push something (the nut) into the wedge.

The idea is that you position this around the bolt and then use a ratchet to turn the bolt until the pesky little nut is cut on one side by the wedge in the nut splitter.

All you have to do after that is pull the broken nut off the shaft and your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sounds kinda like what I had to do with a nut on my WRX that was giving me trouble. I used a dremel on that one, but the threads were kinda jacked up after that. :oops:

This sounds like a better option.
 

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¡Oracle! said:
The threads get replaced anyway as they're part of the shock, so don't worry about what happens to them.
Maybe on a rodeo, but on the Trooper, :oops: Ummm, NO. There are threads on the top mount of the front shocks, the rears have a bolt that goes through the top of the shock, you ruin it and you will need to buy a new one.

Best suggestion, spray some PB blaster (or I just used WD40) on it for one or two days, let it sit then that should loosen it up.

wrxlvr, If you still can't get those bolts undone PM me and we could hook up and I can help some evening.
 

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Why did I think he had a Rodeo? Never mind then!

Still for completely seized bolts, this isn't a bad thing to have.

Last time I did my CVs, I noticed that my passenger lower control arm had very rusty bolts holding the ball joint to it. In fact two bolts were completely seized on one of my lower control arms. It didn't matter that they had been soaked daily for a week and tapped with a hammer to help free them up. They gave way, completely stripped with the nut just turning on the bolt shaft.

Sometimes it's not worth the trouble for these parts that are in places that are already tough to work in and near sensitive components.

Good luck!
 

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One more thing, those red shock cover boots look real purty, but on my rear shocks it didn't take long for the heat from the tail pipe to melt one of them down into a mangled tangle. Some run without putting them on. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've hosed it down with WD40 for 2 days in a row and still can't get it out. Part of the problem is that the breaker bar I have doesn't fit up there too well. :(

Doc C, I PM'd you.
 

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wrxlvr said:
I've hosed it down with WD40 for 2 days in a row and still can't get it out.
Try this stuff called Liquid Wrench. You can get it at Autozone or any other parts place. It worked wonders on all the bolts I've used it on! Must better than WD-40 for rust.
 
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