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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my 1st Isuzu.
Its a 89 amigo 2.6l manual 4x4 w/210k miles.
I have loved these cars since I rode in my buddies back in high school , 1990ish.
Im not new to working on cars , hell its what I do for a living.
Im a tech and a Hot Rod shop.
Anywyas, the guy I bought it from was the 2nd owner , he bought it in 95 w/45k miles on the odom from the original owner.
The engine is pretty well oiled over, probbably valve cover gasket .
Runs and drives great .
Back to the real Q.
He has been running Dello 400 15w40 since 45k miles and there is NO valve tick , like some other Isuzu's Ive heard and heard of.
I wanted to switch to Full synthetic Mobil 1 but am alittle afraid to shock the vehicel into another type/brand/wieght oil since it has done so well till now .
What do you all think?
 

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i don't think that model engine is prone to the infamous ticking.. only the later V6s with the hydrolic lifters are really notorious for the death tick...

Delo 400 is an incredable value in oil... containing a large amount of group 3 synthetic. (it's not POA base stock, like you find in Mobil 1, but you will find other brands selling group 3 synthetic oils for $4+/quart, examples include: castrol syntec (all but 0w30 made in germany), quaker state "synthetics"..) At $7.50 per gallon, the delo 400 contains the best base stock for the money of any oil you can buy...

Here's what I suggest...

If you already have a valve cover gasket leak, pop up the valave covers, and have a look inside, you can replace the gaskets at this point anyways. If this engine has had delo 400, for all that time.. it should look pretty clean as long as the oil was changed at proper intervals. (delo 400, is an HDEO, it has more detergency than normal engine oils)... If there is sludge.. then a switch to Mobil 1.. could theoretically help clean it up over time and insure that no flow issues arrise from sludge... but.. remember.. if there are any leaks in this engine, a POA stock will leak faster... it's polerized characteristics will squeeze into smaller palces easier.

Since this engine has run a long healthy life on an HDEO oil.. there would be no good reason to move away from an oil that has served it so well... If you do deside to switch to Mobil... Eithor consider Mobil 1 EP (which is on par with HDEOs, because it contains more detergency) but keep the oil change interval within a reasonable amount. (6kish). Or... consider delvac 1 (or, Mobil 1 Truck & SUV)(they are the same oil).... It comes in a 5W40 veriety.. It is considered a "heavy" 40 weight.. so it might be a bit thicker at operating temps than the delo was.. which probably couldn't hurt considering how old the engine is anyways... The advantage to the Mobil, would be, better flow at startup untill operating temps are reached, and having a POA base oil that can keep things cleaner and have a higher film strength.

Only problem I forsee with the switch, would be the possability of pre-exsisting leaks showing their ugly faces on such an old engine.

Oh yea... and check out Auto-Rx.com if you develop leaks or have sludge in there..... this is one of very few products on the market, that actually works as advertised if you fallow the instructions...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx
Please explain POA & HDEO ?
I am dont have the valve cover off right now and I just changed the oil tonight using the Delo 400 15w40.
My only real concerns is that this oil may be to heavy?
I mean it hardly ever gets to freezing here in the Oregon valley , but I do drive to the Mt to go snowboarding 3 times a month abd am worried about hard starts and possible damage upon start up @ those cold Mt temps.
 

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For what it's worth, I switched over to Mobile1 5W30 at 187,000 miles.

This was in the engine, tranny & Transfer case.

I've had no problems with the switch.

The only leak that has been persistent from the start is the distributor seal. Seems like I have to play with that every time I adjust the timing.

Cant say it's gotten more problematic since the switch & no new leaks have shown up.

You should hear a slight mechanical ticking. The valve clearance should be at .008 in. intake & exhaust. They tend to tighten up & this will lead to burned valves.

Jim
 

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By the way, congratulations on your purchase.

Jim
 

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Thanx
Please explain POA & HDEO ?
I am dont have the valve cover off right now and I just changed the oil tonight using the Delo 400 15w40.
My only real concerns is that this oil may be to heavy?
POA=PolyAlphaOlefin

POA is the real deal synthetic, made in a "lab.".. it is not hydrocracked from crude oils. It contains the lowest occurance of impurities and the highest film strength of oils available.

HDEO= heavy duty engine oil

Any oil that is formulated with diesel engines in mind, or severe service engines, is generally considered an HDEO... they will usually have certifications for use in many of the popular brands of heavy duty engines, like cummins, cat, detriot, etc. HDEO oils also usually meet(far exceed actually) API certifications for regular passenger cars... Often times, when you have an equipment or service manager in charge of a whole fleet of tractors, trucks, and regular vehicles for a company, he will choose one HDEO and use it in everything from the tuaras he drives to the earth movers.

If you are regularly doing cold starts in extreme cold situations (below freezing) an oil with a lower W rating would definetally provide some assurance. You mention trips to the mountains... this might be a good reason to get a lower W rating in there...

Delo 400 15W40- is rated with pumpability down to -20F, and poorability, down to -31F... if you see temps that get below 0F in the mountains on a regular basis- then you may be pushing this oil to the limits of it's ability for cold protection.. and remember, that rating, is for oil out of the bottle.. the addatives that help achieve those low tempurature pumpability ratings, do deteriorate over the life of the oil... More than likally, you will never encounter a tempurature, where the delo won't provide protection,.. but switching to a full syntheitc or something with a lower W rating might be of some assurance.

The poor point for Mobil T&SUV(delvac 1), is -45F.. their online spec sheet does not specify a pumpability point- but one can be sure, if it poors at a significantly lower temp than the delo, it will pump at a lower temp too...

Oh... and if oil continues to fancy your interest... come on over to BITOG.com... the forums there are dedicated to the discussion of oils and other addatives and odds and ends.... most of that I am sharing with you now, I wouldn't know without the help of bitog forums.
 

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Turner- You can switch, mix n' match, change brands and Wt's any time you want with todays oils, synthetic or conventional. No worries what so ever. Mobil-1 or any other true synthetic is outstanding stuff, but a waste of money unless 1) You extend your oil drains to 7000mi+, 2) Run in EXTREME cold, 3) Run in EXTREME heat. Other than that you wont see any advantages over a lower cost oil for this application.
G/luck
Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanx guys you just said all the same stuff In was thinkin I just wanted to think out load , ya know.
Im gonna stay with the Delo 400 as it is a great oil , eats very cheap , $2.12 @ local walmart, and the truck has been using it for 160k miles with no problems.
If it aint broke , dont fix it , right?
Not to mention , its gotta say something about the oil if it sounds, runs , and drives this good with 210k miles on the same brand oil, eh? LOL. :wink:
 

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buy the delo in the 1 gallon jugs, it's cheaper that way.
 
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