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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so front diff is solid, everything is almost brand new, axle shaft is still plugged into carrier and still bolted and everything.

I have manual lock hubs.

Now, keep in mind, I have torn CV boots both inner and outer which I will be replacing, but not the issue I have. That's easy. (Thanks to a forum that helped me)

When the vehicle sits, (with 2" calmini lift and dropped diff) with just a slight angle, enough that when sitting still, the outer shaft is pulled out of the knuckle assembly, it pulls the shaft out of the knuckle a little bit like normal, but when I hit a bump, it forces it to extend TOO far, jamming it into my lock assembly and causing a very angry grinding sound...When I first had the problem, I pulled and pushed on the CV shaft and it slides in and out very easily, which is causing my problem.

But is it just because both the CV boots are detatched? When the boots are on and tightened down, does the rubber from the CV boot hold the shaft from moving too far? is the shaft supposed to be press-fitted into the knuckle assembly? Or am I missing a washer or bearing or something?

Please and thank you.
 

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The CV cup should be flush against the hub assembly by way of shims behind the cv snapring in the hub.

By chance, did you just convert to manual hubs? If so, did you go with the auto snaprings or get the correct, larger ones that are larger and go farther in on the CV shaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OKay, so here it is. The inboard housing is solid in place. The CV boots are torn hardcore. While driving (With the Manual hubs on and in place UNLOCKED), when I go over a bump and the suspension flexes, the CV axle is pushed outward to the point it forces itself into the moving hub...Makes a LOOOOOOUUUUUUD Grinding sound as it tries to jam itself into the moving object. Does that help at all?

Pictures won't help.

It's VERY hard to explain. When I hit a bump on the highway and the suspension flexes, the outer portion of the CV shaft is forced outward, jamming itself into the Hub assembly...That's the best I can explain it. :(

On the driver side, where there is no snap ring, or axle nut holding it in place. When you lock the hub, the gear is pushed over the end of the shaft, allowing the 4wd to engage. But when you hit bumps on the highway, it's like the CV axle is forcing itself to lock into the hub. Make any sense yet?
 

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It sounds the me like you are missing the snap rings that go on the outer end of the axle. Which boots are torn? Inner, outer or both? The inner cv joint is the one that slides in and out to compensate for suspension travel. If the inner boots are torn, it could be gunked up enough in there to not allow the cv joint to slide in and out like it should.
 

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91Suzu said:
On the driver side, where there is no snap ring, or axle nut holding it in place. When you lock the hub, the gear is pushed over the end of the shaft, allowing the 4wd to engage. But when you hit bumps on the highway, it's like the CV axle is forcing itself to lock into the hub. Make any sense yet?
The snap ring is supposed to hold your axle in the outboard position. If there is no ring, there is your problem. The inner portion of the hub is splined to your axle, and the outer portion of the hub is splined to lock into the inner portion. Although , at speed it would seem like your axle/hub is trying to "crash lock", but in actuality, it can't be "pushed" that far no matter how much your suspension flexes. If everything is put together properly and all the parts are there, the race on the backside of your spindle would prevent the shaft from being "pushed" that far.

Without the snap ring, however, it can be pulled.

Pictures always help. A few well placed shots may reveal something to someone that you over looked.

Did you put the manual hubs on?
Did you take them apart and look at what might be happening?
What brand of hubs are they?
Ar you planning on using they type of boots that are split so you can put them on without taking the whole thing apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, after putting new snap rings on her, she kept shooting them off. So I went with just replacing the entire halfshaft and went to a Drive-line shop and had an exact fit Snap ring found for 'er. Amazingly enough, the guy gave me a handful of them and said that they were no charge. O_O SCORE!!

She has been perfect ever since. (Up til the Engine Rebuild this Summer....That knock at high rpms scares me so I want to get her torn apart and fixed before it gets worse)
 
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