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Hi , my right rear power window won't go down anymore , all my other windows do fine , when I use the master power window switch on the drivers door or the right rear door it self either button doesn't wOrk any more for some reason , any ideas ?
 

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Since neither window switch works it seems that the problem is more likely at the window regulator. have you pulled off the door panel yet? The first thing I would do is see if you are getting power to the motor harness. Disconnect the harness from the motor and use a multimeter to touch one of the pins in the harness and the other to a ground (the door latch works on my trooper but anything bare metal attached to the frame will suffice.) Also youre gonna have to have the car at least turned to the one position and the window switch pressed and im not sure which pin is hot so you might have to do some trial and error.
 

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my windows go up so god dam slow its ridiculous
i hate it, sometimes i have to shake the rear ones with my hand and also use the switch just for it to go up lol.

all my friends get out and grab the window and pull it up along with hitting the switch.

there on drugs i guess.
 

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twilson said:
my windows go up so god dam slow its ridiculous
i hate it, sometimes i have to shake the rear ones with my hand and also use the switch just for it to go up lol.

all my friends get out and grab the window and pull it up along with hitting the switch.

there on drugs i guess.
If you haven't cleaned the tracks and sprayed them with Silicone, I STRONGLY recommend you do. I thought my hand cranks were busted, but they seemed ok when I took the panels off. A quick spray with some silicone in the tracks and my 4year old can open and close them now....unfortunately.
 

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twilson said:
my windows go up so god dam slow its ridiculous
i hate it, sometimes i have to shake the rear ones with my hand and also use the switch just for it to go up lol.

all my friends get out and grab the window and pull it up along with hitting the switch.

there on drugs i guess.
Like the other guy said your tracks may be dirty, though you could also have a problem with carbon buildup on your switches. If you spray silicon as was suggested, keep it out of the motor/regulator gears, it willl dissolve the grease.
You may also have one or more broken window sash clips.
If one of the two on each window breaks the regulator becomes misaligned with the window and tends to bind, slowing it down. They are only a few bucks but you'll have to take the window out to do it right.
Cleaning the contacts in the drivers door cluster switch is pretty simple BUT the way they designed the lockout switch makes it near impossible to reassemble it with its contact spring in place. I never miss it, given the choice between non-op windows, the crazy money for a new one, or losing the lockout function which I hated anyway.....
As for the regulators, they have some on ebay for as little as $50-60 shipped...... you get what you pay for, bought one a couple years ago, lasted one month. Replaced it with a salvage unit, also from ebay, $20 (plus $20 shipping, they aren't small)
 

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AudioRedneck said:
twilson said:
my windows go up so god dam slow its ridiculous
i hate it, sometimes i have to shake the rear ones with my hand and also use the switch just for it to go up lol.

all my friends get out and grab the window and pull it up along with hitting the switch.

there on drugs i guess.
If you haven't cleaned the tracks and sprayed them with Silicone, I STRONGLY recommend you do. I thought my hand cranks were busted, but they seemed ok when I took the panels off. A quick spray with some silicone in the tracks and my 4year old can open and close them now....unfortunately.
I toke the panels off and sprayed the cable with WD40 as well as the gear,

window goes up 5x faster now :p
 

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not to be an old lady about it but that's going to last you all of about a month....

WD-40 really is an *** product, the way it's advertised is downright irresponsible. It's best use is as a penetrant and even for that there are better things. It DID likely clean the tracks and loosened up any gummed up factory lube that was on it. However in as mentioned month or so the WD-40 is long gone and you've got a dry mechanism. The track not so bad, it's nylon plastic (if they're intact) on metal, the gears being dry is real bad. They're metal to metal.

I wouldn't expect you to tear your panels off on my advice alone, but in a couple of months if you start to hear grinding or they slow up, the best all in one solution is generally white lithium spray grease, available virtually anywhere. While you're in the doors shoot all the moving parts for the lock and latching mechanism too.

If anyone wants to chime in or argue against that, please do as I would appreciate the education of better ways to do things.
 

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batvette said:
If anyone wants to chime in or argue against that, please do as I would appreciate the education of better ways to do things.
I agree with you , if it starts to grind i will do that.

Thank you.
 

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batvette said:
not to be an old lady about it but that's going to last you all of about a month....

WD-40 really is an a-- product, the way it's advertised is downright irresponsible. It's best use is as a penetrant and even for that there are better things. It DID likely clean the tracks and loosened up any gummed up factory lube that was on it. However in as mentioned month or so the WD-40 is long gone and you've got a dry mechanism. The track not so bad, it's nylon plastic (if they're intact) on metal, the gears being dry is real bad. They're metal to metal.

I wouldn't expect you to tear your panels off on my advice alone, but in a couple of months if you start to hear grinding or they slow up, the best all in one solution is generally white lithium spray grease, available virtually anywhere. While you're in the doors shoot all the moving parts for the lock and latching mechanism too.

If anyone wants to chime in or argue against that, please do as I would appreciate the education of better ways to do things.
This is true, the WD-40 will evaporate after a few weeks. WD-40 is a water displacer and it's lubricating properties are short lived. You need to get SILICONE spray, and if it doesn't say SILICONE its not SILICONE. And even silicone will probably need to be once a year treatment. Now that you've shot it with WD, some pipe cleaners or a tooth brush should help clean out any grime buildup in the channels.

The other thing you can use is graphite power, which is a solid lubricant. But don't use anything in the tracks with the word "Grease" in the name or you'll soon have a worse problem than when you started as it will attract dirt. Grease is for the joints behind the door panel.
 

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ok thank you
 

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Huh, I never thought of doing that! I have the same window issues as twilson (although maybe not quite that bad- my dad's 03 Suburban windows tend to not go up...it's a pita)

How hard was it to pull the panels off? It seems whenever I do these things there are little delicate pieces of plastic that don't like to be moved and are impossible to replace involved...so hopefully it wasn't too difficult?
 

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It was actually very simple the only thing that can get confusing is feeding the door handle back through the hole when you put panels back on. There's a screw holding on the door handle, and then the handle you can hold on to, to close door has 2 screws remove them, the actuall window switch pops right off disconnect the harness, the panels held on by clips, you can work ur way up from bottom by pulling panel gently til they pop after there removed it lifts up and comes right out you have to cut the plastic a little to get lube on the cable / gears.

Not hard or pita @ all.

Tyler
 

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Also be careful of what kind of silicone you use. Liquid Wrench as a product they call silicone, but it seams to be a different mixture. My dad used it on his Trooper, and got ugly black streaks on his paint (over spray, it was windy). I used CRC brand and had no problem. (And mine is WHITE!) I'm guessing his was more of a combo silicone and penetrating oil type of deal. Not trying to tout any brand here, just personal experience.
 

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Flyindog said:
Also be careful of what kind of silicone you use. Liquid Wrench as a product they call silicone, but it seams to be a different mixture. My dad used it on his Trooper, and got ugly black streaks on his paint (over spray, it was windy). I used CRC brand and had no problem. (And mine is WHITE!) I'm guessing his was more of a combo silicone and penetrating oil type of deal. Not trying to tout any brand here, just personal experience.
So true, "silicone spray" is not the same from brand to brand.

For years now on my cars and bicycles, when I top off the tires I spray a drop or two of silicone into the schrader valves before I put the air hose on it, to lubricate the valve seals so I've been through a few brands over the years. I also periodically spray all the rubber suspension bushings to keep them from drying and cracking, that can take up to a whole can itself, which I usually finish off by spraying the radiator and heater hoses under the hood.

A little cheap PM that can save a bundle if it makes the parts last much longer.

It might be noted (on the topic) you may not need to remove the door panels to spray silicone on the regulators, a good flashlight and the little red tube thing and careful aim should get you by going through the top. Be a good idea to cover the door in and out and maybe flush the paint with water after to be safe.
The door panels are not hard to get off but it is unecessarily tedious and if you don't have the right tool it's easy to bust off all those damn trim clips.

For years I've been using one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-21-232 ... B0007ZENQ0

modified by grinding a much bigger relief hole where the nail slot is, probably about 5/16", to better fit around the clip. Works fantastic.

If you take the door panels off make sure the plastic sheeting is in good shape when you reassemble it.

If you take ALL the panels off it's a good idea to rotate the door pull brackets from front to rear. That's the little black plastic piece attached to the door. They crack over time and wear cycles, the rears get little use and they are hard to find.

FInally check the sash clips on any power window issue, they do break and will cause other issues to become worse. For instance it will destroy the regulator in short time. They're cheap (generic ones available in the cheap red "help" parts packageded at all auto parts stores, the ones I got were 4 in a pack for $12, 2 fit my vehicle) tho you do need to pull out the window to get the goo from the old one off.
 
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