Picture is of newer design from a year 2000+
power door lock actuator assembly wiring colors, how do these work? how to test?
My rear door lock was working for a week after I swapped the door after a wreck.
It stopped.
But I have the newer design actuator that has the 4 wires but a different plug so no direct swap.
How can you test these things? off the car.
What color wires does what function?
I traced black wire in the other door harness and it seems a ground wire possibly.
The blue green with traces seem to be the signal from the switch to lock and unlock which creates a ground connection.
The brown wire?? is it hot 12v all the time?
![Circuit component Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Cable Wire]()
It stopped.
But I have the newer design actuator that has the 4 wires but a different plug so no direct swap.
How can you test these things? off the car.
What color wires does what function?
I traced black wire in the other door harness and it seems a ground wire possibly.
The blue green with traces seem to be the signal from the switch to lock and unlock which creates a ground connection.
The brown wire?? is it hot 12v all the time?
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
took it apart, typical reverse polarity motor gear.
Uses the green wires to move the arm. Polarity reversal moves motor other way. Motor shuts down when lever arm moves to lock or unlock, then wire polarity has to be reversed to move it back.
Black and brown look like wires that could tell the car the door is locked or unlocked. Those are unused AFAIK, I have no indicator light.
advantage of the newer design is the metal move arm, the earlier 1996 one has a plastic arm and that arm broke in the crash.
![Circuit component Gas Technology Auto part Engineering]()
I have no idea what stopped my original actuator from quitting, but I can rig this one into the wires since I know how it works. Hard to think the existing vehicle wires broke, that seems doubtful. All the other door locks work ok.
Uses the green wires to move the arm. Polarity reversal moves motor other way. Motor shuts down when lever arm moves to lock or unlock, then wire polarity has to be reversed to move it back.
Black and brown look like wires that could tell the car the door is locked or unlocked. Those are unused AFAIK, I have no indicator light.
advantage of the newer design is the metal move arm, the earlier 1996 one has a plastic arm and that arm broke in the crash.
I have no idea what stopped my original actuator from quitting, but I can rig this one into the wires since I know how it works. Hard to think the existing vehicle wires broke, that seems doubtful. All the other door locks work ok.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
