[TROOPY]

Well hello again.....
Here is my continuing saga, I have a rebuilt (S&S Engines SUCK!) 89 2.6L 4EZ1 Motor that is spuddering under loads around 3K RPM. Dont bother mentioning exhaust problems. (the exhaust & CAT is completely new) When going up a hill or on the highway up an incline the whole truck will "buck" a few times, revs stayhigh but thats probably from the tranny pulling them up.... If you apply more fuel i.e. mash the pedal, the buck will become a more frequent and the noise is hard to explain.....Its like the motor is misfiring and not producing power to the wheels.. if you are thinking cluth slippage, this is not the problem, the clutch and t/o bearing is new too..!? Winter is comming and I am trying to figure this out and help would be good help.! The entire drive line is OK too along with the rear. I dont think its the distributor, could the coil be on its way out? I am not sure how the coils in these things act when they get a few miles on em.... lets say 120,00 miles on em.. (this is when others with bad coils should chime in) can a bad coil produce problem intermittantly under load?

 

[wrenchmonster]

I know you are frustrated, but remember, automechanics is a game of patience. I also wouldn't be so quick to condemn the guys who rebuilt the motor. If they are a reputable shop, YOUR engine should have been tested prior to leaving the shop, and they should be able and willing to give you the performance specs on the rebuild (especially a long block). Remember, these guys do it every day, if you have some bad words for them they are probably just going to blow you off.

If you are crossing off the systems you spoke of, I would think that the fuel system would be the next system I took a look at. If you suspect a problem in the ignition system, buy a spark checker or put your motor on a scope. A faulty ignition system is easiest to diagnose on a scope.

Personally, I would take a second look at the clutch and make sure everything is okay. Did you also replace the pressure plate? Flywheel resurfaced? Did you do a run-out test? Release bearing not touching when clutch disengaged?

Patience is the key. Remember that cars are like bodies, everything is interrelated and one problem can cause another problem somewhere else. Good luck.

-Kevin

 

[Trooperz2.6]

I personally would go with the ignition system. Faulty coil can in my experience do exactly what you are saying. I do have to agree with wrench here. If you have a problem with S&S you need to take it up with them. I am assuming it's the S&S in Spokane WA? I live 70 miles from them and have never heard a complaint against them, they have a good rep here, so I would suggest you give them a call and tell them whats up, and that you're not happy with their service and indeed you would like some recomence before going to the BBB.

Just my two cents worth. Can I have change now?

 

[TROOPY]

problem solved! :lol:
boy i sure feel stupid it was a fouled plug in #4 cylinder. runs like a champ now, I guess the shop that did the head gasket either put a bad one in or it wasnt firing right..... it had alot of carbon buildup on it, I'm just hoping it dosnt happen again, I think it happened when the head gasket went and all that crap was going into the cylinder and vaporizing. I think the shop must have missed the fouled plug and left it in there because I dont think that was 300 miles worth of crap on that plug. Anyhow the winter beater is back on the road and I can spare some miles on my KICK *** SRT4! Its weird to drive troopy after driving the SRT4, the truck seems like a big slug in comparison :lol: to that Turbo toy.

 

[TROOPY]

I personally would go with the ignition system. Faulty coil can in my experience do exactly what you are saying. I do have to agree with wrench here. If you have a problem with S&S you need to take it up with them. I am assuming it's the S&S in Spokane WA? I live 70 miles from them and have never heard a complaint against them, they have a good rep here, so I would suggest you give them a call and tell them whats up, and that you're not happy with their service and indeed you would like some recomence before going to the BBB.

Just my two cents worth. Can I have change now?

Trust me its not worth it, they will screw you (S&S) the second they can. I'm just letting everyone know that they SUCK, they didnt even reimburse me for the head gasket labor time, they reimbursed me for a Rear main seal replacement WHICH WAS NOT EVEN DONE. I don't care if you have never heard of any problems with them..... YOU HAVE NOW! :shock:

Trust me, you will be better of going with another rebuilder, the cheapest with a nice warranty on paper that isnt backed honestly is not the way to go...... Ill probably have to get another rebuild in the future, but I sure as hell am not going with S&S. Ill probably just go with a Jasper rebuild and save myself more downtime and squabling with a ****TY company. If the motor had a failed head gaset after 1000 miles I would assume they are using inferior parts or the wrenches there just do not give a f#*k. As for a New Head Casting Claim by them, it is not... it is a refurbished head they used. "Built to Improve" as they claim on their website is a nice slogan to get you hyped up about their probucts, yet it is not what you will recieve. If you dont believe me, no skin off of my back, its just the way it is.

Theres my $1600.00 & 3 months opinion.

 

[wrenchmonster]

Howdy. Hey Troopy, glad it was something simple and that you got your problem solved. If you paid $1600 bucks, first of all, any and all gaskets should have been replaced, all machining done, and at the very least they should have cleaned the plugs, if not just thrown in some new ones for you. Did they remove the engine from the truck for you? Just curious if that was part of the $1600. I think RPM Rons sells a whole long block outright for that cost, with all new parts and everything checked out.

-Kevin

 

[TROOPY]

1600 bucks was for a "remanufactured" motor.... the head gasket failed after 1000 miles (i think less than that) the shop I used charged 600 bucks to do the head gasket on the rebuilt motor. I think the fouling came from the headgasket failure....& the shop missed the plug problem... they fixed it up though... S&S only reimbursed me for like 240 bucks on a headgasket repair (something that should have not been needed @ only 1000 miles on a "remanufactured" motor) The shop that did the "remanufactured" motor install and the headgasket are great guys, its a small independant shop in Maryland, I just hope that there isnt another underlying problem woth this motor from S&S causing this problem with the #4 cyclinder. I wish I wasnt all the way across the US, then I would go into S&S in Spokane and give them a piece of my mind "personaly" :evil: (if you catch my drift) anyways the beater is back on the road for the winter..... no telling on how long this shotty motor will last me though...

Keep on Troopin'

PEACE

oh yeah, S&S Sucks!