[integrator97]

Warmed up my 2000 Trooper this morning, about 30 degrees outside. On the ground at the tailpipe, mixed with the condensation, was a pink oily residue. I've never seen this before.

Checked my oil, black and a 1/2 quart low. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic since about a month and a half. Uses a quart every 300 to 400 miles.

Any ideas?

 

[JTK]

.... Uses a quart every 300 to 400 miles.

Any ideas?

:shock: Man that is a LOT of oil usage! Maybe some rust from the exhaust system mixed with oil? Are you the original owner? (10/120 warranty)

Joel

 

[integrator97]

No, this was really pink, and oily, seperated from the water (condensation).

Yes it is a lot of oil. I did the Seafoam soak last year. Not much help. Heard that synthetic helps, so I'm trying that, and recently read about CD2, so I'm gonna try that. Otherwise I'll either have to rebuild/replace, or sell it.

I'm second owner, with 90k, though I've had it since 22k.

 

[mdocod]

for a motor that young to burn THAT much seems excessive... From what I gather around here, the ring-design of many of the isuzu engines develops problems quickly.... The problem is flow... and get's worse over time (probably due to buildup)...

I don't know much about the pink fluid out the back... i'm also guessing it's oily residue and rust combining and coming out...

I have 2 suggestions...

1. Get a used oil analysis.... Consumption issues, cause high levels of insolubles- you can also look at wear metals and figure get more insight into where your blowby is happening.

2. ARX the engine to clean out the rings, might be able to get consumption down to a more reasonable level. Auto-RX.com, follow the instructions and do 2 full clean/rinse cycles.

 

[JTK]

Integrator- don't bother with the synthetic. You will just be blowing $$$ out the tailpipe. It's still unknown if overnight cylinder soaks thru the sparkplug towers help or not, but if any remedy in a bottle does, cylinder soaks will. At that oil consumption rate, I'd buy gallon jugs of inexpensive 15w-40 (coastal, advance auto, supertech, etc) or the likes and keep'er topped up!

G/luck
Joel

 

[redneckn17]

Automatic transmisson fluid maybe? I know on some vehicles theres a vacuume thing on the trans. that works into the engine vacuume system and if the solenoid or whatever the vacuume is connected to goes bad it sucks trans. fluid into the engine.

 

[Amigo-2k]

I know he posted this on another site too.

It was also suggested that it could be antifreeze (the pink kind).

look in the resever tank and see if it is pink

 

[JTK]

Automatic transmisson fluid maybe? I know on some vehicles theres a vacuume thing on the trans. that works into the engine vacuume system and if the solenoid or whatever the vacuume is connected to goes bad it sucks trans. fluid into the engine.

Yep, this used to be a pretty common occurance on older cars with vacuum modulators for the auto trans. The diaphragm would blow in the modulator & you'd draw ATF thru the vac line, into the intake and right into the combustion chamber. Quite the smoke show. The 4L30E is all electronic. No vacuum circuits on it.

Joel

 

[troopdiggin87]

I have heard that an engine that already burns oil will burn more oil if its synthetic.

thats what my dad always says, but I think he was talkin about an engine that had bad valve seals; and not a ring problem.

good luck I feal for you man

 

[meathead]

from what I've seen, synthetic will go faster. Everything I've put synthetic oil in has used it much faster than plain ol' dino oil. Pink stuff? No idea. Not antifreeze is it? seen a lot of new stuff with the new pink anti-freeze.

 

[BigSwede]

Funny, I have used 5W-30 Mobil One for about 20 years now, NEVER had an engine burn more oil with it, even my old 99 Trooper only used one quart in 3000 miles. Both my current 93 Trooper (112K odo) and my 97 Tahoe (108K) use at most a quart in 5000 miles (my current change interval). Never had a motor develop leaks with it, either. And I bought both of them used, so they probably didn't have synthetic in them before.

 

[JTK]

Same here. 20 years & never had an 'issue' using M1, amsoil or RP. Don't use'em anymore since I can't bring myself to go beyond 5-6K miles on the same oil. I never recongnized any benefits to running synthetics on my DD's.

Joel

 

[BigSwede]

Not even when you start 'em at minus 20F?

$3.83 at Wal Mart, still less than $20/change for full synthetic...can't get too worked up about that when it costs $50 to fill the gas tank once (my Tahoe has a 30 gallon tank).

 

[Amigo-2k]

I changed my oil to Mobil 1 syn for the first time about a month ago.

startup at zero and below is noticable different.

 

[JTK]

Not even when you start 'em at minus 20F?..

We get lots of snow, but it rarely gets below 0degF. Dino oil allow's them to light off no prob. M1 would be the way to go @ -20degF!!

Joel

 

[Johnnie]

I've use Valvoline full Synth in mine since it was brand new and now with 96,000 on her she is still looking like new! Everything comes up clean inside the rocker cover with no evidence of burnt oil on the lifters like I'd get with any of the dino brands. I also run 5000 between changes and always use the Fram tough duty filter as nearly all my driving is in the city and stop and go. I had the oil analyzed at the local Cummings diesel dealer and it came back pure, no deposits from bearing wear at all.

The pink stuff coming out of the exhaust..... My first suspect is anti-freeze leaking into the exhaust through a bad head gasket. Pull your dip stick and see if the oil appears to be foamy. If you got foamy stuff on the stick, and pink stuff out the exhaust, run a vacuum check on all the cylinders to see if one of them is lower than the others. If so.. head to the shop for a full head job.

 

[onetouch]

I switched to Mobil 1 last summer.

Has'nt burned any, no leakage issues I did'nt allready have.

Jim

 

[Mindwebs]

Yep, this used to be a pretty common occurance on older cars with vacuum modulators for the auto trans. The diaphragm would blow in the modulator & you'd draw ATF thru the vac line, into the intake and right into the combustion chamber. Quite the smoke show. The 4L30E is all electronic. No vacuum circuits on it. Joel

4L30E???????????
call me an idiot, but that's a GM transmission. :shock:

My 2000 Chevy 1/2 ton 4X4 has the 4L60E
the GM 3/4 tons(or heavy 1/2 tons) have the 4L80E

If that's the case, your 2000 "Isuzu" is a GM vehicle
Your not fighting an isuzu problem your fighting a GM problem. :evil:

find your engine size and ask someone who knows that engine in a GM car. :?

(P.S.) I know GM owns Isuzu now, i just thought it was 02 or 03. not 00

 

[Tad]

GM doesn't own Isuzu anymore. They used to own a majority share of it, but a few years ago they sold most of Isuzu.

The 4L30E is a GM transmission, built in France. The Trooper is an Isuzu however. The 3.2/3.5 engine share the GM 60 degree bellhousing bolt pattern, so a GM transmission will bolt to it. Isuzu has been using GM transmissions behind Isuzu V6s since 1992, and GM transmissions behind GM engines since 1989.

The 4L30E was used in some Caddys, BMWs and a few vehicles in Europe. GM never used it in a truck though.

-Tad

 

[Mindwebs]

I am by no means an expert. :?

last winter i was told by the an isuzu dealer parts guy that there were no longer "Isuzu's" they were just rebadged GM's :shock:

I've talked with GM salesmen that the new "isuzu diesel" in chevy's was junk (not a great motor) because GM wouldn't leave the isuzu engineers alone to build it, meaning GM stuck they're fingers in it and messed with it.
:x
this motor just came out last fall, i think....

Tad, you could be right, I DON"T know.
it would be intresting to know for sure.

hmm, i think the s10's used 4L60's minus a few clutchplates (modified clutch packs) don't know if it has a different model number.