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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Clearing out the driveway

front waggy d44, 5.38's, detroit, flat top knuckles, currently running crossover, but have the other arm for highsteer included in sale
rear 12 bolt, 5.38's, open -haven't even broken the gears in...they were bought and set up by matt at indy4x

The rig itself ran when it went down for the SAS. 2.6, 5spd, 160k, IIRC. I'd had some issues with idling bad and there was a leak from one of the injectors in the intake. I'd also broken the PS mounting bolt off the head. This is very hard to remove while the engine is complete and in the vehicle. I stopped sweating it a long time ago when work took up more and more of my time.

Rig has been sitting for a couple years now, I think it would crank and drive if I reassembled the stuff I pulled out of the way to mess with the PS mount. Don't know for sure though :/

Issues w/ the SAS: I'd gone shackles forward to hopefully give myself less problems w/ driveshaft slip in the front. Never got one mounted, because even w/ the axle about 6" fwd of stock, I only had room for about 2 feet of driveshaft at probably a 25* angle at ride height. This thing is very low for a SOA SAS as well. There's just not a lot of room for a driveshaft w/ the manual trans. So even if I got one mounted I'd be looking at binding with droop. I didn't have the time or money to invest in a cut and turn, but that would probably be the best bet.

Also, with the axle that far fwd, the drag link is at an angle, but it's not too terrible. A bigger issue is that there's only about 2.5" clearance from the drag link to the frame. So uptravel is limited.

I figure the best way to turn this around would be to go SUA, run the drag link to the tierod on the stock arm mounts (ie not to a highsteer arm). And possibly also do a cut and turn on the axle in order to get a good driveshaft situation.

Other stuff: has homemade rear bumper and sliders which aren't that pretty but hold up to abuse. I ran this rig on 35's w/ no lift a long time ago so the fenders are cut up a lot. You could fit 40's on this rig w/ a little cutting at the front of the front fenders. I had it on 38.5x15's and 37x12.50's and it looked great both ways. It swallows 35's tho :) Also has a busted drivers side vent window, and the pass front door won't close not for some reason (prob just loose mounting brackets).

ANYWAY!!! Sorry, just wanted to let potential buyers know what they are getting into.

Price: $1200 for the whole shebang, front axle 800, rear 3rd 300. OBO

Pics incoming....

Contact: paulevans76 at gmail dot com
text or call 252 nine one 6 20 eight two
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·









Rear one piece driveshaft needs a few isuzu joints. the aftermarket ones have the caps tack welded to the yoke ears so they'd stay. A bit of a backwoods temp fix, yes :)

Tires are not included. It's rolling on some bald 31's currently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can seperate- front d44 $600, rear 3rd $350
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pay me $800 and you can have the whole shebang, tow it home!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bobbie said:
hey, im looking for a distributor :D
I can hook you up! I reckon around $50 +shipping. Shoot me a PM or email.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sold.
 
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