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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Ok. Took the time to stare at it a while. I'm slow but finally saw that there's not room for cable movement to allow the second barrel to open. The linkage does not move far enough to engage the second barrel linkage. I can't see any adjustments for the other end of the cable on the pedal. Going to mess with the Weber bracket or make something that works. Cable is already down on the valve cover gasket and backed off the carb far enough that the angle is pretty severe.

The nut on the floorboard under the pedal, is there any adjustment for that or just is what it is? Thanks so much for y'all's continued patience.
 
Probably going to have to do something on the carb end. Can you post a picture of the bracket you are talking about? Dennis
 
NOW I can see what your problem is. I just fixed the same kind of problem on a guy's riding mower yesterday (same principle). If you unhook the cable from the bellcrank and pull it toward the right fender, I bet you will find that the cable pulls out past the carb. What you need to do: Get that bracket off and there is a "Z" bend between the mount holes and where the cable mounts. You need to bend that "Z" in the opposite direction (so it will place the cable clamp more towards the driver side of the truck) . This will place the cable end further away from the throttle bellcrank and "tighten up" the slack in your cable. Some have also added an extra anchor along the cable between the firewall and the carb base (maybe mounted to the valve cover). this was to eliminate flexing of the cable, which took up a little of the cable movement. This also may have been with ITEC to carb conversions where they had a slightly longer cable to start with. Dennis
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Thanks Dennis. I was concerned that reverse bending the bracket might fatigue the metal. There is a clamp that bolts to the valve cover for this cable. It will raise the cable and make the attachment angle more severe. Will this cause any problems or am I over thinking and borrowing trouble?

Newly rebuilt engine, radiator leaking. I recall one for a 2.8 auto will fit great and have more cooling captivity?

Thanks!
 
Again, I'd have to see that "angle" to determine. Because the bellcrank has that curved pulley like guide, angle (up - down) isn't too big of an issue. On the radiator, I believe the 2.8 radiator has the same hose orientation. I know for a fact that the Rodeo / pickup 2.8 radiator will work with the 2.6s in those. D.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
I couldn't pull anymore slack out. Bent the bracket some. Seems to be opening up both barrels but has the throttle open to a 2000 rpm idle. Is there any adjustment for the cable at the firewall or on the pedal? Looks like I need more movement from the cable? Pic shows the idle screw backed off of the lever about 1/8. Inch as set now. Second pic shows the angle of the cable. Thanks!
 

Attachments

Here's a look at mine. Don't know if it'll help but... When I swapped to Weber I kept the original bell off the Hicrapi and everything fit perfect ish.
 

Attachments

For Popster: the threaded part of the cable at the carb end, you have it all the way on the end. If you undo the jam nut maybe you can back it down to get a good idle and still get thos secondarys working. Charles: You know, I think maybe I had used the original bell crank from my original carb. That's been around 20 years ago. Dennis
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I think I can get the adjustment made ok? Wigs has a blood clot in her foot and was not patiently waiting for me to take her on an errand. Got back and it's raining like a cow peeing through a pole bridge! Later or tomorrow I guess. Thanks
 
I needed to change the jets around a little from the way it came on mine. Went from a 60 to 55 primary idle (way better), from 140 to 130 primary main, from 140 to 170 secondary main. Didn't change 50 secondary idle or air correction I think what they're called (little ones near top of bowl). I needed an extra throttle return spring. I run a Carter pump with regulator (absolutely needed) set to 1.5 lbs.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Been super busy a while. running OK but will not idle below about 1100 and has minor surges then, stumbles abour 2500 - 2800 RPM. Talked to Ron at Redline he said I need a Calibration kit. It came in this week and now he's closed. Any Suggestions as to how to proceed would be GREATLY appreciated. it's a 2.6 with 2.3 intake, new head, bored to 30 over, I think. Pressure regulator set to 3 lb. running 100% gas, no eythnol. No other mods. Please don't assume I know anymore than that cause I'm pretty much a DA on this. Thanks!
 
First: ABSOLUTELY sure there are no vacuum leaks? The adapter plates can be tricky to get sealed up good. Then there's the 2.3 EGR set up. In my opinion, with a carb, make a block off plate and seal that up good. Was this originally an EFI truck (1988 or newer) or was it a 2.3 carbed truck and had a 2.6 put in? I don't remember. If it was an 87 or older, does it still have the big vacuum break device (with large vacuum lines on right fender well). Either way, the 2.3 intake has the large vacuum port for it on the right center and that needs to be sealed up good. you
What happens if you hold a couple fingers over the top of the carb throat when it's idling? Does it smooth out (too lean). Dennis
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Thanks Dennis. Truck was born with 2.3 carbed. I put the 2.6 in. ERG tube has been removed and ports plugged. I haven't found any vacuum leaks, everything plugged capped or hooked up tight. I haven't gotten it to idle correctly with anything. Going to recheck for leaks and then work on jets.

Thanks!!
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Had a few minutes to work on the trooper yesterday. I swear before Mr. Goodwrench that I checked for vacuum leaks before and found none. Now I have a leak around the adapter on the head side. I think the adapter is like wood, warps with weather change. I had put a light coat of grease on all surfaces of the gaskets for the adapter and carb. Do I need start over there or use RTV or what? Suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

Since we are looking at a couple of days of Ida wind and rain I. had to button the trooper up and park her in the yard, make room for some other more weather sensitive things to hide out in what passes for my shop.

Thanks
 
The adapters are "sensitive". Because there are larger holes that hold the adapter to the manifold, there is less sealing area. They are prone to leaking in this area. Had I gone to a carb conversion (I had everything) I was planning on drilling and tapping additional smaller screws (like 3/16 - countersunk or allen) in areas to add to the clamping power. Silicone migh help, but needs to be fuel proof type. Dennis
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Thanks Dennis, There's so little surface to surface area. The plastic adapter has a 1/16 inch lip that runs the outside edge on both sides and the same on the inside close to the barrels. I know its lighter and cheaper but a solid smooth surface of half inch would solve the problem I think.
 
"PLASTIC" adapter?????? They were bad enough when aluminum. Can you post a picture? I can't believe this. Dennis
 
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