[Hooptie]

I've not posted in a while, mostly because I've been fixing my Ranger. Well, now its the Rodeos turn. 96 5 speed 4x4 Rodeo. Heres the deal, its got 105,000 miles, the check engine light just came on, and coinciding with it is a hellacious tick from the number two cylinder on the passenger side bank.

Oil pressure via the gauge is fine, I know they like to burn, but I checked the dipstick and it read spot on. To me it sounds a lot like a lifter not pumping up due to oil starvation, but I know exactly nothing about the quad cam V6 in it. At first I thought maybe spark knock, but its far too frequent and pronounced.

Basically, I'm wondering if I'm on the right track, I'll have someone else do the work, I'm versed in OHV turds, not OHC.

Any help would be marvtabulous.

 

[trxrustler3]

Yep this is definately the lifter not getting oil. I had to rebuild mine at just under 130k for the same reason. We actually replaced the lifters, and found the problem to be a lash adjuster not getting oil. The oil journals on this motor are so teenie tiny that when they clog up they're completely stopped. I recommend tearing it apart (using a Haynes manual, they're worth $20) and replacing the lash adjusters. If you get in there and need new lifters, replace those as well but I doubt you'll need it. Also clean the journals out with a paper clip, on all the cams.

I've also heard of people running 0W-30 oil in their Isuzus to combat this tap. I've always used Castrol GTX High Mileage and it's been doing good, no more tap. Just remember while you're under there, get 2 new valve cover gaskets, and you might as well clean everything up around the intake while you're there. It takes about 12 hours to pull the cams out and clean them up, pop in the new adjusters and lifters, and strap it back down.

Now for a slightly cheaper option that I've found, go to ebay. There's some company selling rebuilt Isuzu heads for $260 a pair. They've got valve jobs and everything already, just bolt them up. I wish I had found this before hand, as I need to replace the heads now anyway and they've got $300 worth of lifters and adjusters. I'd look into these heads though as I'm not 100% sure what they come with. Keep us updated. Also try running Top Engine Cleaner from your local Isuzu shack to clean out some of that carbon and trash in the motor.

 

[Hooptie]

hmm, I'll odds are change the oil to a thinner viscocity and add some sort of detergent and change it every 1500-2000 miles to see if it clears out. I hate bandaid fixes, but it'll do for now. We'll take her truck over and have them look into it, the only OHC emperience I have is an SVO Mustang....lol

Thanks for the help though!

 

[Hooptie]

okay, had the codes pulled, this covers the CEL, but what the hell is it? Charcoal Cannister?

EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge

 

[bigpoppax2]

For the tick, people have had good luck with using Seafoam in their oil just before an oil change, and then running Mobil one 0w-30. The Seafoam cleans out all of the oil passages and the mobil one is much thinner and gets to places inside the engine easier.

Better than a complete teardown.

Joe

 

[roxer]

Is Mobile One 0W-30 ok for newer motors too? My 2002 Rodeo Sport 3.2 has 18,000 miles on it and I want to start it out on synthetic oil. Should I go with 0W-30 or stick to 10W-30 weight? Also, how about length of time? I hear change it every 7,500 miles for some, 8,000 miles from others, and finally, stick to the regular schedule of 3,000 mile oil changes. Any advice on this?

 

[Hooptie]

update. Its got 5W20 in it now and oil detergent. Its quited down quite a bit, but from time to time it still gets a little loud for my tate.

 

[bigpoppax2]

Roxer, look in your factory manual to see what they reccomend as far as oil changes. I bet it says either 5000 miles or 7500 miles between changes.

I run Amsoil in mine. I go 7500 miles and change the filter, then top off. 7500 more miles then I do an oil and filter change. So I'm going 15,000 per oil change with a filter change in between. I have 90,000 on the clock and little to no oil consumption.

I'm using 5W-30 in mine but that or 0W-30 is ok. It really does help with "the tick" from what I've heard. I haven't gotten the tick or the oil usage others have complained about.

Joe

 

[roxer]

Thanks bigpoppax2, that's exactly I was looking for - real useage. My neighbor has a case of Mobil One 10W-30 syn that he will sell me for 15 bucks since he decided he didn't want to use it. So I will try it at this viscosity and then go down on my next change to 5w-30/0w-30. I'll start with 7500 first - 15,000 is a little long for my tastes.

-- Shon

 

[GEG]

I did my own lifter and intake rocker rod replacement on my 125k 1993 Rodeo. This is a long but cost effective ordeal. You will need to tear the front of the motor apart to remove the timing belt first. The fuel injection unit and valve covers next. The cam shafts next, followed by both of the rocker rods. The rockers and lash adjusters will then be on the bench. The intake rocker rod will probably be shoot, and need replacing. The lash adjusters can be bought from a rebuilder like Aluminum Head rebuilders in Portland, Ore. (my source) for around $5.00 a pop. My biggest problem was with the stripping of the allen heads that hold the cam and rockers nailed down. You might be able to cure this by using a top quality allen driver with a ratchet. Remember the lash adjusters can only take up so much slop, and if the rods are showing wear, you need to get them replaced. The aluminum rockers are usually good and will not need to be replaced. If you need some, be sure to get them from a rebuilder.

My total bill with a complete timing set, water pump, new gaskets, new intake rocker rods, and lash adjusters was under $700.
Time was two weekends. One to get it apart. The second to put it together.
Note: The new rods have larger oil ports for self oiling and transfer to the lash adjusters.
Note #2: The dealer wanted more than I paid for the unit to do the same job.
GEG