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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a leak on the drivers side valve cover, pulled it off and fixed it, leak is noticeably better, but there is still a small leak, I reached back there to check the seals on the back of the valve cover and there doesnt seem to be and wet oil from there, where else could it be coming from? Could it still be residual/left over oil from the leak?
 

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If you didn't torque the bolts properly or put a dab of RTV at the bottoms of each side of the cam towers you might get a leak still....or if the rear cam plug seal is shot it will leak. Did my valve covers on my 97 Rodeo three times and they still leaked on the driver's side (on the rear of the head...even if I wiped it clean eventually it got wet again and would drip down towards the starter area).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yah this is the third time I have done mine, I made sure everything was absolutely perfect this time though, the bolts are definitely torqued down enough, I started in the middle and worked my way outwards. rechecked the bolts everytime too, not sure why these valve covers suck so bad holding oil in its rediculous. maybe it is the rear cam seal, but like I said I felt around and no wet oil, so I am a bit confused.

Edit: Just went and checked it cause it has been sitting in the garage, leak actually still seems pretty bad, it drips to the ground from the cross member with the 4 long bolts that hold it in to place. From there I cant tell where it is coming from, I just know it rolls on down in to the cross memeber and then to the ground.
 

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I agree...these are the worst valve cover designs I have personally seen on any vehicle I have worked on or owned.

Does yours drip on the driver's side, passenger side, or center of the crossmember? Mine dripped some oil/lubricant last week (found a saucer sized puddle under the truck) and I found drops on the driver's side of the same crossmember in mine. Can't seem to find the source of that either and it seems to have stopped.

Huh.

Usually if the valve covers leak it leaks onto the exhaust manifold or along the very backs of the heads.

Might be power steering fluid or from the A/C.
 

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For the rear it's FEL-PRO Part # TCS45868 for about $2.00 for the set from Rockauto (these are plugs....they fit into the rear cam towers....some people have been successful at picking the plugs out....otherwise you need to pull the valve covers and remove the rear cam tower to knock the plug out).

In most cases with the later engines there's a metal bracket held in place by two 12mm bolts that keeps the plug from blowing out under high oil pressure. If it's leaking here you should be able to crawl up under the engine and using a flashlight see some wet on the back of the head.

The seals on the front are FEL-PRO Part # TCS45859 and that requires removal of the camshafts.

With regard to my drip on the crossmember I looked last night and it's come back. Still no idea where it's coming from.
 

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smokstac said:
For the rear it's FEL-PRO Part # TCS45868 for about $2.00 for the set from Rockauto (these are plugs....they fit into the rear cam towers....some people have been successful at picking the plugs out....otherwise you need to pull the valve covers and remove the rear cam tower to knock the plug out).

In most cases with the later engines there's a metal bracket held in place by two 12mm bolts that keeps the plug from blowing out under high oil pressure. If it's leaking here you should be able to crawl up under the engine and using a flashlight see some wet on the back of the head.

The seals on the front are FEL-PRO Part # TCS45859 and that requires removal of the camshafts.

With regard to my drip on the crossmember I looked last night and it's come back. Still no idea where it's coming from.
I hate reviving an old post but I'm stuck on getting my old cam plugs out. I have the valve covers off and took our the two 12mm bolts on the rear cam tower (drivers side) it wiggles but I can't the cam tower to come out. Is there something else I need to do? and what's the torque spec when bolting that back down?
 

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Turns out taking the cam tower loose did nothing to help.

The trick I found was grinding a hole in the cam plug with a Dremal tool and heavy duty cut off disc. Then popping the plug out with pick/bent screwdriver. Took about a minute to get the cam plug out that way.
 
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