Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since i started to use Mobile1 oil (conventional or synthetic) my 2000 rodeo no longer eats the normal quart of oil before oil changes. I'm not sure why, perhaps because mobile oil "burns away" at a higher temperature (looked this up). Anyways some of you guys may want to give mobile oil a shot, so far so good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,209 Posts
It's a well known fact for most people the Seafoam treatment and then switch to Mobil One oil is the best thing that can be done.

The reason is the lighter synthetic oil flows better than dino oil does. The thought is that the oil ends up pooling on top of the head and ends up getting through the valves into the combustion chamber. There are two reasons for this. One is the Dino oil doesn't flow as easy as Synthetic, and two the drain holes are small and can tend to get clogged by the dino oil deposits.

The Seafoam cleans the oil passages, and then the Syn. oil drains better.

This is as I understand it.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
[edit]*higher* burnoff point, combined with better flow characteristics, yep, that's pretty much it.... some engines are the other way around, and consumer more when switching to a synthetic for a few changes, then it levels out after thigns clean up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
Yep, I've had similar results with my 2000 Rodeo. Although I still burn off a quart in the first 1200 or so miles immediately after the oil change. After I top it off I use maybe 1 quart every 2000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i usually use something like 10w-40 conventional mobile one with a small amount of slick50, i get great gas mileage, and doesn't eat any of the oil at all. So far so good, hopefully i wont end up with a seized engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
slick50 is snake oil, don't bother.

a good addative, for synthetics (which usually have less moly in them) is the valvoline synpower addative in the little silver bottle. It's mostly a moly booster, which will reduce metal-to-metal wear and provide an extra layer of protection when pressure and heat get extreme.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
whats snake oil? and i still dont use synthetic yet, next time i buy a case of oil i guess i'll switch to synthetic though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Snake oil? A useless product that makes you believe you are doing something good for your engine, although it does nothing and sometimes even hinders the performance of motor oils. And don't forget thehype that makes every one a believer. Products like Slick50, all the teflon nonsense, and of course the Tornado are all fine examples.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I switched to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and my Oil Loss issues have stopped. I have even towed heavy loads at high altitudes and have had no oil loss. Prior to switching I would loose approx a quart every 1000 to 1500 miles. From what I understand most synthetic oils can't burn and have a high detergent content which prevents alot of internal build ups. Standard motor oils mostly come from the same refinery and then the brand names (Castrol Etc.) Slap a sticker on it and maybe a few additives to make it seem better. I also extend my oil changes to 5000 miles using Mobil 1 and if you can do it yourself you might just save a little cabbage.
Hope this helps someone !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,676 Posts
Besides the extra stability of synthetic oil, it is likely keeping the rings free of carbon.

The Seafoam treatment helps to get rid of any carbon deposits that have built up on the piston ring lands, combustion chambers and valves. The synthetic burns cleaner and won't 'coke' up like conventional motor oil can.

Don't forget to keep your EGR and PCV systems well maintained as failures in either will cause an increase in oil burning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just realized something, ever since i put that slick 50 in there i dont hear valve tapping. So far it doesn't tap on the first start of the morning, and it doesn't start after a good drive. It could be coincidence but since last oil change (when i put the slick50 in) i haven't heard any valve tapping. I just realized it now (usually i get a little crazy in the drive through hearing my rodeo)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Can I just switch to synthetic at oil change. Or do I have to do the sea foam 1st. I did the sea foam a few thoudand miles ago, with little luck. Engine wasn't running good, so I parked it last year, and haven't messed with it.

Before the sea foam, the dealer said my heads were warped, and I could have it rebuilt or replaced. My mechanic said the compression was good, and didn't know how the dealer could guess that, without tearing into the engine. But I should have listened to the shop foreman at the dealer. He came outside and said "trade it in".
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top