Ever since i started to use Mobile1 oil (conventional or synthetic) my 2000 rodeo no longer eats the normal quart of oil before oil changes. I'm not sure why, perhaps because mobile oil "burns away" at a higher temperature (looked this up). Anyways some of you guys may want to give mobile oil a shot, so far so good.
Oil Consumption Idea
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It's a well known fact for most people the Seafoam treatment and then switch to Mobil One oil is the best thing that can be done.
The reason is the lighter synthetic oil flows better than dino oil does. The thought is that the oil ends up pooling on top of the head and ends up getting through the valves into the combustion chamber. There are two reasons for this. One is the Dino oil doesn't flow as easy as Synthetic, and two the drain holes are small and can tend to get clogged by the dino oil deposits.
The Seafoam cleans the oil passages, and then the Syn. oil drains better.
This is as I understand it.
Joe
The reason is the lighter synthetic oil flows better than dino oil does. The thought is that the oil ends up pooling on top of the head and ends up getting through the valves into the combustion chamber. There are two reasons for this. One is the Dino oil doesn't flow as easy as Synthetic, and two the drain holes are small and can tend to get clogged by the dino oil deposits.
The Seafoam cleans the oil passages, and then the Syn. oil drains better.
This is as I understand it.
Joe
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688 Posts
Yep, I've had similar results with my 2000 Rodeo. Although I still burn off a quart in the first 1200 or so miles immediately after the oil change. After I top it off I use maybe 1 quart every 2000 miles.
slick50 is snake oil, don't bother.
a good addative, for synthetics (which usually have less moly in them) is the valvoline synpower addative in the little silver bottle. It's mostly a moly booster, which will reduce metal-to-metal wear and provide an extra layer of protection when pressure and heat get extreme.
a good addative, for synthetics (which usually have less moly in them) is the valvoline synpower addative in the little silver bottle. It's mostly a moly booster, which will reduce metal-to-metal wear and provide an extra layer of protection when pressure and heat get extreme.
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Snake oil? A useless product that makes you believe you are doing something good for your engine, although it does nothing and sometimes even hinders the performance of motor oils. And don't forget thehype that makes every one a believer. Products like Slick50, all the teflon nonsense, and of course the Tornado are all fine examples.
I switched to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and my Oil Loss issues have stopped. I have even towed heavy loads at high altitudes and have had no oil loss. Prior to switching I would loose approx a quart every 1000 to 1500 miles. From what I understand most synthetic oils can't burn and have a high detergent content which prevents alot of internal build ups. Standard motor oils mostly come from the same refinery and then the brand names (Castrol Etc.) Slap a sticker on it and maybe a few additives to make it seem better. I also extend my oil changes to 5000 miles using Mobil 1 and if you can do it yourself you might just save a little cabbage.
Hope this helps someone !!
Hope this helps someone !!
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139 Posts
I use Mobil 1 syn and change every 5k also.
Besides the extra stability of synthetic oil, it is likely keeping the rings free of carbon.
The Seafoam treatment helps to get rid of any carbon deposits that have built up on the piston ring lands, combustion chambers and valves. The synthetic burns cleaner and won't 'coke' up like conventional motor oil can.
Don't forget to keep your EGR and PCV systems well maintained as failures in either will cause an increase in oil burning.
The Seafoam treatment helps to get rid of any carbon deposits that have built up on the piston ring lands, combustion chambers and valves. The synthetic burns cleaner and won't 'coke' up like conventional motor oil can.
Don't forget to keep your EGR and PCV systems well maintained as failures in either will cause an increase in oil burning.
I just realized something, ever since i put that slick 50 in there i dont hear valve tapping. So far it doesn't tap on the first start of the morning, and it doesn't start after a good drive. It could be coincidence but since last oil change (when i put the slick50 in) i haven't heard any valve tapping. I just realized it now (usually i get a little crazy in the drive through hearing my rodeo)
Check this out http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf at around page 151 it has the details of many different motor oils.
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Can I just switch to synthetic at oil change. Or do I have to do the sea foam 1st. I did the sea foam a few thoudand miles ago, with little luck. Engine wasn't running good, so I parked it last year, and haven't messed with it.
Before the sea foam, the dealer said my heads were warped, and I could have it rebuilt or replaced. My mechanic said the compression was good, and didn't know how the dealer could guess that, without tearing into the engine. But I should have listened to the shop foreman at the dealer. He came outside and said "trade it in".
Before the sea foam, the dealer said my heads were warped, and I could have it rebuilt or replaced. My mechanic said the compression was good, and didn't know how the dealer could guess that, without tearing into the engine. But I should have listened to the shop foreman at the dealer. He came outside and said "trade it in".
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