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Did the hub conversion on my 2001 Rodeo to try and improve it's fuel economy somewhat. The truck is a 2001 (built August 2000) Rodeo.

Wheel removed showing the stock setup.


Remove the 6 cap screws using an 8mm hex key. Hold the hub from tuning by inserting a screwdriver into the rotor and wedging it against the caliper:


With the bolts and dust cap removed. Clean up the grease and remove the snap ring using a pair of snap-ring pliers and pull off the hub flange:


Using a T-15 torx screwdriver, separate the hub. I'm using a Superwinch hub. Other manufacturer's hubs may be different:


Grease up the CV splines lightly using a synthetic disc-brake grease and slide the manual hub-body onto the splines and bolt in place. Since torque specs aren't listed, I used my engineering degree a bit and came up with 38 ft-lbs. I torqued the bolts to 38 ft-lbs. (Correction: I retorqued them to 44 ft-lbs per the recommendation below)


The Superwinch bolts are slightly longer than the stock bolts and everyone complains about the lock washers that come with them. I opted to keep the stock bolts and discard the lock washers in lieu of having wheel fitment problems.


Fit the snap ring. Superwinch will advise using a new snap-ring. I've read that it needs to be a 26 mm (or roughly 1-inch) snap-ring. I used the stock one as it looked to be in good shape. I'm sure someone will chastise me for this:


Install the Superwinch gasket and bolt the hub in place. It's held on with six (6) T-15 screws. Tighten them snugly but don't crank on them for fear of damaging the aluminum body:


Fit the wheel, minus the center cap, and see if it fits appropriately. Try out the hub and make sure it locks and unlocks appropriately:


I chose to modify the center caps to give it a finished look. My plan is to drill out the center caps using a hole saw. First, determine the center of the cap:


Use a 3 1/2" hole saw to drill out the center cap. I had to place the cap back in the wheel to get it to hold still while cutting:


Respect the hole saw. I could see this thing taking a finger tip in the blink of an eye:


Fit the center cap back into the wheel and make sure everything fits:


Since my center caps were corroding, I chose to paint them:


Caliper painted and wheel arch undercoated:


Wheel center cap painted, wheel torqued to 87 ft-lbs (per Isuzu Factory Manual) and everything buttoned up:
 

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Well Done sir!, and just let your dog lick that finger and it will be good in no time!

cheers
-Ian
 

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A few things to add,

1. Torque spec on the large allen bolts is 44 ft lbs.
2. Use some blue loctite on the large allen bolts, they like to come loose even with lock washers.
3. Use anti-seize on the small allen screws. If you dont they will corrode into place and become impossible to remove.
4. The caps are bare aluminum. If you want to keep them looking nice use some clear spray paint on them.
5. 1" snap ring is just slightly smaller then OEM so it fits tighter. If you have issues of the stock ones popping off, get some 1".
 

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Do you or anyone else know if these will work for 2004 Rodeos also?
 

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They will not. The 2004 has a cartridge hub.
 

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gwana66 said:
They will not. The 2004 has a cartridge hub.
Damn I thought so just wanted to confirm
 
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