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I'm in the middle of this now. I've completely removed the intake manifold and plenum so that I could clean them out.
Here are some observations that I've already come up with.
First, I thoroughly detailed the engine before I remove the manifold, yet, when I remove it, the area around the lower gaskets was still surrounded by dirt and grime. I don't know how you guys can confidently replace the gaskets by simply removing the bolts, lifting the manifold assembly and sliding in the new gaskets.
I did have some small flecks of dust fall from the fuel injector seals and land on the valves when I removed my manifold. A solution of soapy water and a shop vac with it's hose reduced by taping a vacuum hose to the end, worked well to suck out anything that may have fallen into the head. Once you are satisfied that the engine is clean, place masking tape over the cylinder-head openings to prevent anything from falling in there. Give the top side of the engine a good cleaning in preparation for reinstallation of the manifold.
Second, looking at the throttle body and plenum gaskets, they were dry and nasty. I wouldn't want to do this job without replacing them as well. My lower gaskets were cracked enough that small bits and pieces fell out on removal. Make sure these don't fall in the engine.
Third, the inside of my manifold (on a truck with ~73k miles) was totally nasty; it is filled with oil residue and chunky carbon deposits, likely from the poor EGR design. Now is a good time to carefully clean this crap out.
Fourth, as they are relatively inexpensive, replace the injector o-rings and the thermostat while you have the manifold removed (since you will have to remove the manifold to replace the thermostat when you do it anyway). The aftermarket part number for the o-ring set is C1060-104168 and it is made by Nippon Reinz and runs about $20. The part number for the stock injector o-ring set is 8171134000 and runs between $15 and $23, depending on which dealership you buy it from.
Finally, the throttle body gasket from Checker (or Advance Auto) is wrong. The package shows it for a 1993 to 1995 Rodeo, but they sell it for all years. Don't buy it. Instead, get a roll of gasket material and cut your own.
A list of parts that would be good to have on hand, if you remove your manifold for any reason, are as follows:
Lower manifold gasket set (2 gaskets) ($32.84)
Plenum gasket ($7.63)
Throttle body gasket (make this yourself)
EGR Valve Gasket ($5.97)
Injector o-ring set (PN 8171134000) ($13.48)
Thermostat and seal ($14.48)
I purchased these parts from isuzuparts.com (Scarff Auto in WV) for the prices listed above. The Isuzu parts are actually cheaper than the aftermarket version at Checker/Advanced Auto.
Hope this helps someone elses IMG replacment move a bit more quickly.
Here are some observations that I've already come up with.
First, I thoroughly detailed the engine before I remove the manifold, yet, when I remove it, the area around the lower gaskets was still surrounded by dirt and grime. I don't know how you guys can confidently replace the gaskets by simply removing the bolts, lifting the manifold assembly and sliding in the new gaskets.
I did have some small flecks of dust fall from the fuel injector seals and land on the valves when I removed my manifold. A solution of soapy water and a shop vac with it's hose reduced by taping a vacuum hose to the end, worked well to suck out anything that may have fallen into the head. Once you are satisfied that the engine is clean, place masking tape over the cylinder-head openings to prevent anything from falling in there. Give the top side of the engine a good cleaning in preparation for reinstallation of the manifold.
Second, looking at the throttle body and plenum gaskets, they were dry and nasty. I wouldn't want to do this job without replacing them as well. My lower gaskets were cracked enough that small bits and pieces fell out on removal. Make sure these don't fall in the engine.
Third, the inside of my manifold (on a truck with ~73k miles) was totally nasty; it is filled with oil residue and chunky carbon deposits, likely from the poor EGR design. Now is a good time to carefully clean this crap out.
Fourth, as they are relatively inexpensive, replace the injector o-rings and the thermostat while you have the manifold removed (since you will have to remove the manifold to replace the thermostat when you do it anyway). The aftermarket part number for the o-ring set is C1060-104168 and it is made by Nippon Reinz and runs about $20. The part number for the stock injector o-ring set is 8171134000 and runs between $15 and $23, depending on which dealership you buy it from.
Finally, the throttle body gasket from Checker (or Advance Auto) is wrong. The package shows it for a 1993 to 1995 Rodeo, but they sell it for all years. Don't buy it. Instead, get a roll of gasket material and cut your own.
A list of parts that would be good to have on hand, if you remove your manifold for any reason, are as follows:
Lower manifold gasket set (2 gaskets) ($32.84)
Plenum gasket ($7.63)
Throttle body gasket (make this yourself)
EGR Valve Gasket ($5.97)
Injector o-ring set (PN 8171134000) ($13.48)
Thermostat and seal ($14.48)
I purchased these parts from isuzuparts.com (Scarff Auto in WV) for the prices listed above. The Isuzu parts are actually cheaper than the aftermarket version at Checker/Advanced Auto.
Hope this helps someone elses IMG replacment move a bit more quickly.