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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First the wheel starts vibrating then smell gas from under the plastic cover on top of the engine and know a P0430 code and it makes me wonder why i traded in a Honda to get this and it has not even been a week of owning it and already thinking i should have keeped the Honda at least the only thing i would have to worry about is the brakes failing.

Just trying to figure out the gas smell since i don't see anything leaking. If i only can get that fixed i would be happy and not worry about the P0430 code that i am getting.
 

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Sorry to hear about your problems.

The gas smell could likely be the cause of P0430, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2).

Something is wrong with the driver side cat. It could be as simple as a bad o2 sensor.
Please list what year and engine size you have, so we can help you get this solved.

It sounds like you're running rich or there is a gas leak that evaporates before you're even able to spot the fuel, or its small at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2002 3.2L v6

and on top of it the abs light comes on know to for some reason but not worryed about that just about the gas smell.
 

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Do you have any warranty on your Rodeo?

A code P0430 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
There is an exhaust leak

I would check for an exhaust leak on the driver side exhaust system first.
If its a bad o2 sensor, it would most likely be the drivers side downstream (post cat) one.

If its the catalytic converter that is plugged up. It means unburned fuel got in there somehow and melted it together.
That could be cause by a number of things bad pre-cat o2 sensor, leaky fuel injector, bad spark plug, etc...
Make sure you fix the running rich problem, before replacing the catalytic converter.

I have also read of a clogged EGR valve or leaky intake manifold gaskets setting off P0430 codes.

As for the ABS light... you need to pull the code. But alot of us have ABS problems and we just pull the fuse and use manual brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The only warranty that is on it is for the engine internals trans internals and the drive shafts.

And the wheel might be out of balance but that is not always the case of having your wheel vibrate when it is the front one.
 

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How many miles are on this truck? And did you have it inspected by a mechanic of *your* choice prior to purchasing it?

Anything can occur with a 9yr old vehicle, you're talking a 2002, this is 2011....so even if it has low mileage, hoses/parts are still 9yrs old regardless of mileage.

These trucks do last a long time; I have a 91 with 350k miles and a 97 with 200k, both still have original engine and auto transmissions; but they have had a lot of prestine maintenance over the years.

One wheel vibrating could be anything from the tire out of balance, tire rotted on the inside, bad wheel bearing, broken ball joint, etc.

A vehicle is only as good as the maintenance performed on it, and how much the previous owner took care of it....even then though, you're still talking about a 9yr old truck, parts are going to start to fail at that age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ramblin Fever said:
How many miles are on this truck? And did you have it inspected by a mechanic of *your* choice prior to purchasing it?

Anything can occur with a 9yr old vehicle, you're talking a 2002, this is 2011....so even if it has low mileage, hoses/parts are still 9yrs old regardless of mileage.

These trucks do last a long time; I have a 91 with 350k miles and a 97 with 200k, both still have original engine and auto transmissions; but they have had a lot of prestine maintenance over the years.

One wheel vibrating could be anything from the tire out of balance, tire rotted on the inside, bad wheel bearing, broken ball joint, etc.

A vehicle is only as good as the maintenance performed on it, and how much the previous owner took care of it....even then though, you're still talking about a 9yr old truck, parts are going to start to fail at that age.
It has 131400 miles on it. So far i know i have to get new shocks, and while i am doing that i am going to go ahead and replace balls joints,and tie rods that way i can get it all done at once, since i will be taking things apart minus well do it all at once.
Then on to doing the timing belt and water pump.
 

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If you're just replacing the shocks, you dont need to do all the ball joints and stuff. I didnt even remove the tires or jack the truck up when I did the front shocks.
The fronts took me no more than 10 minutes to do both sides. The rears are a little harder cause of clearance problems and the top shock mount nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well i wouldn't but i don't know when they were last replaced on it. Plus it makes me feel better knowing that it has new parts and not old worn out parts that are going to brake sooner or later and it all ways happens to me in the winter time and i don't have a garage to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fixed the running rich part. Ended up loosing 1/4 of a tank a gas to find it but it turned out to be a fuel line leaking. The line that sets back by the fire wall that connects to the passenger side fuel rail. know i get a Bank 2 sensor 1 low voltage and it idles low and dies. And the engine light just started blinking 21 times than stops then starts again. Bought new cat but have not installed it yet since still waiting for the part to come in and just got to find out what sensor 1 is so i can replace it to so that i don't have to worry about it.
 

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Glad you found the leak. Those fuel lines are a PITA.

Bank 2, Sensor 1 = drivers side upstream o2 sensor. (before cat)

I would just replace both upstreams, if one is bad. Use Denso direct replacement and you should be fine.
I have seen alot of people have problems with the universal splice type sensors.
 

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You traded a honda for a rodeo? oh god help you
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes i did trade a Honda for a rodeo. And i am not big on Honda's that can't even go through snow or other places that i need to go. Plus i like to be able to work on my vehicles and be proud of my self when i accomplish some thing that i did not just take it to a shop and have them figure it out and spend more money then it is worth to have it fixed. I am even putting OEM fog lights on the rodeo just got to find bolts to use to hold them in place than will be done with that part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Know i have a different problem that has me stumped. Won't go into park and sound like it has a vacuum leak but can't find it and it tries to die. Have to hold shifter into park just to get it started. I wish the bad luck would stop for a while so i can teach the wife how to drive at least.

The vacuum leak sounds like it is cumming from the front of the engine. Have used started fluid to see if i can pin point where it is leaking but no luck there at all. Checked the hole entire intake manifold and still can't fine any thing that would cause the problem that i having with it right know and it has me stumped.

And What ever it is, I think it is causing the transmission not wanting to go into park do to the problem that it is having. Well hopping that is the cause and nothing else is going wrong with it.
 

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If you have to hold the shifter in Park the shift cable may be out of adjustment. The shifter cable operates the transmission manual valve actuator lever and the Range Mode Switch (RMS). One set of contacts on the RMS is the "Neutral Safety" circuit. However, if the transmission is actually in Park it is the RMS that is out out adjustment. The cable has a plastic adjustment nut secured to the transmission case, the RMS is bolted to the transmission case. There are a few images of the RMS and the adjuster on pg 3 of this thread: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1707&start=50

Your vacuum leak is a different problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Know I have 11 Different codes for the damn thing just got to figure out what it leads to.
P1299-Electronic Throttle Control Engine Shut down
P1295-Electronic Throttle Control Power Management Mode
P1125-Electronic Throttle Control Performance Mode
P1120-Electronic Throttle Control Position Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction
P1220-Electronic Throttle Control Position Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction
P1326-Ion Sensing Module Combustion Quality
P1310-Ion Sensing Module Diagnosis
P0174-System To Lean (Bank 2)
P0300-Random Misfire (twice)
P0151-02 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2,Sensor 1)

This is the most codes that i have ever seen at one time from one vehicle.
 

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DTC 1299,1295,1125,1120 and 1220 are related and indicate there is an issue with your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). There are actually two sensors (TPS1) and (TPS2) in the same package so check the wiring to the unit.

DTC P1326, P1310, P0174 and P0300 are all related ignition system problems. Start trouble shooting by ensuring you have the correct spark plugs installed.

DTC P0151 Check to ensure the O2 sensor has not been mis-wired or has broken wires.
 
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