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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
oldestisuzuist said:
It will only go on one way, if you got it fully bolted up you should be fine. Without the cam-activated push rod in the up position you have to fight the pressure of the rod against the pump lever as the pump is pushed into position- it's a lot harder to position & the nuts are harder to tighten. The only problem I can see you might have is an oil leak at one of the two gaskets- there is one between the intake & the spacer and another between the spacer & the pump, if you removed both, cleaned the mating surfaces & used new gaskets then you should be good.
The new pump only came with one gasket...
 

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the spacer will most likely be stuck to the intake due to heat. don't try and pry it off or you'll most likely crack it, especially cause you don't have much room to work in with the intake on the engine. make sure it is not cracked, clean the surface and install the pump with the new gasket you have. if one of the studs is loose, you most likely will not be able to tighten the stud with the intake manifold on. your only alternative is to note how much it stand out from the spacer, remove the stud and then calculate how long a bolt you'll need to replace it. you don't want to get a bolt that's too long or it will bottom out in the head and possibly crack the head,. Ace hardware will probably have a metric bolt of the size and standard machine thread you'll need.

I've actually never had a fuel pump leak oil and I've owned a couple 86's . I suspect if your's is leaking, it is because the pump is loose. which would blow oil all over rather quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
EricJette said:
I suspect if your's is leaking, it is because the pump is loose. which would blow oil all over rather quickly.
When I got the old fuel pump off, the plastic spacer and gasket all fell apart. There was basically nothing I could do. Fortunately, they all came right off and left me with a very clean surface. Unfortunately, the new fuel pump only had one gasket. I didn't notice a second gasket on the first fuel pump and the pictures of the product online only had one gasket included, so I installed it with the one. Now I'm thinking that 1) I need to take it back off and put the other gasket on and 2) I wonder if the leak from the last one was from the lack of gasket?
 

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I'd just roll with it and see if this cured your leak. If it does, you can always use a dab of permatex black, smear it on the adaptor faces and use your new gasket between it and the intake man.
 

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You must have the spacer on there between the pump & the intake for the pump rod in the head to hit the end of the pump lever, without the spacer the rod contacts the lever too far back. The spacer is sold separately & uses a second pump gasket & are dirt cheap, why they aren't included with the fuel pump as a kit I don't know. If you installed the pump without the spacer get a spacer & two new gaskets & reinstall it correctly, if you installed the pump & spacer with only one gasket see if it leaks, if it does pull both pump & spacer & put new gaskets on both.
If your old pump was leaking oil from the vent hose that's an internal seal gone, not the pump or spacer mount gasket. Either of those would wouldn't cause a vent hose drip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
UPDATE! Well, I'd like you all to know that you were all right in some shape or fashion. I smelled the dip stick and it was if I poured a bottle of black seafoam down the tube. Not good. I changed the starter, then changed the fuel pump, turned the key and...nothing. Dead battery. Changed the battery, IGNITION! The exhaust spewed out the cloud of "why did you drive me" for a minute or two then turned clear. I drove it around without a problem. Parked...and drip drip drip came the oil. At this point, because I drove it at a high speed for such a distance the engine is literally caked with oil. Running out of time (my wife is having shoulder surgery so I'll be taking care of kids instead of car parts) I took it with the oil leak to the mechanic for the state inspection and let them handle the oil change. I live in a town house apartment with no garage, outside power, or water so I pick my DIY carefully. It passed state inspection with only minor problem that they took care of and said, "oh, by-the-way, your oil pressure switch is 'puking' oil. Want us to fix that? We'll degrease the engine to" SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY! Again, for the DIYers out there, I would do this myself if I had the time, tools, and location, but for not I'm just pretending to be a mechanic. Anyway, for a very reasonable fee this guy will fix what I hope to be the last of my oil leak problems. That means I have a running 4X4 classic isuzu that is state inspected for everyday driving and including the purchase of the vehicle, tags and title, repairs and parts, I still have less than $1,100.00 in the project. I'm getting home today to repair some holes in the roof. Apparently, before I got the thing someone wanted the roof rack so bad that they ripped it off, leaving 4 holes in it's wake. They are rusted and putting my perfect headliner at risk so I just sanded them down, bondo, and used some over the counter waterproof truck bedliner. I'm not going for beautiful, just workable. I'll get some pics on here so you guys can see the fruits of your labor. By-the-way...anyone know where I can get a hood spring? Having to use a pull cord to hold the hood latch release open while I walk around to release the hood lock is getting old.
 

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Unless the spring is missing from the latch mechanism, try simply lubing the latch with a bit of motor oil, and/or adjusting the striker. PM me if you need to replace the mechanism (the spring is pretty well built into it)...I have a source for used parts.
 

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As promised, some pictures (remember...only $500.00):

The hood was popped. There is a bit of a dent, but it looks worse than what it is
20150811_154755.jpg


20150811_154818.jpg


Interior could be a lot worse. The seats are torn and it has a cracked dash...not too shabby

20150811_154844.jpg
 

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Pretty funny, I also just bought a 1986 Trooper II for $500! The seller had it in the family for all 30 years, mostly in California and out West so it is in pretty good shape all things considered. She had it inspected the day before so everything appears to be in working order. Drove it home without any problems (brakes are weak...but that's what down-shifting is for, right!?) although the battery light was on. Thought it just might be one of those engine light issues, no big deal. Well, this morning it turned over once without starting and then zero. Probably just needs new battery. But I can't get the hood open, which led me to this site and your post. I pulled the hood release and thought I heard it pop, but no luck. And I don't have a second set of hands right now. Should I be able to use a flathead screwdriver to get it open? Is the latch in the middle of the hood? Thanks
 

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Latch is in middle of hood but you'll have an issue getting to it. When you do get it open, put a little oil on the latch, check for slack in cable, that should solve that problem. You more than likely have a bad alternator (take it off and get it bench tested free at any major auto parts store). Take out your battery and have the auto parts store trickle charge it overnight if it tests good. I've had a bad battery with cracked cell blow the internal resistor in my alt some years ago so it's a good idea to check both.
 

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Thanks! Picked it up for my twin boys who are 16 and almost licensed. My first car was an old US Mail Jeep. They should have more fun with this tank. Seller told me the battery is relatively new so I think you may be right about the alternator but will check both...once I get in there!! Been many years since I had a stick shift with no computers to worry about it.
 

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You might have luck spraying some WD-40 on the latch mechanism if you can thread the tube through the grill.
 

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Anyone out there have an extra fuel pump push rod for their 86T?. I have lots of good tested/rebuit and always clean spares could we make a trade. Based on need only, i’m going crazy trying to find a spare fuel pump push rod.
Text me, 661-431-4512.
Thanks
Jeff
 
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