Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought myself a 2000 Rodeo LS Ironman with 124k miles as my new daily driver. The car is in pretty good shape minus a few hail size dents and the rusty undercarriage. I had recently replaced the stock shocks with Monroe Sensa-Tracs hoping that the ride quality would improve, even just the tiniest bit, and it hasnt at all. I even lowered my tire pressure down to 25psi and the only thing that has done for me was make my fuel consumption worse. EVERY bump I hit the truck gets thrown around, feels like its going to fall apart and seems like its bottoming out on the bump stops. I've been reading through this forum and it seems the most common answer to my complaints is, "It's a truck and will ride like a truck". That answer doesnt seem like a great one considering I've driven a lot of trucks, most older then this one, and they've had a much much nicer ride. I'm going to replace my front sway bar bushings, because I'm sure they have some play in them, and also mess with the t-bar a little. Anyone else have any other recommendations on how to improve ride quality without overhauling the WHOLE suspension? If it doesnt get any better, I'm selling this thing. Just no way I can daily drive this truck, so if anyone is looking for a new car, I may know someone whos selling a Rodeo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
Get new rear springs (OME 913s or 912s) and crank the T-bars. That'll fix your problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,076 Posts
I doubt the springs are to blame. If you are hearing or feeling banging and clunking and you go off course on a bump then the moving components are worn. Ball joints would be number one and then bushings. Get a jack under the LCA and get the load off the hub assembly and then you can try and wiggle the tire around. Having a helper move the tire while you watch the joints with a strong light will quickly allow you to identify the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
Well...I'm just speaking from experience as I had the same vehicle. My '99 passport rode just as you described when I first bought it. It was very upsetting, but that was one of the reasons how I found the planet. That and the damn intermittent wiper relay. After I fixed the wiper problem with a $5 relay (thanks gizmo and the planet), I looked into upgrading my suspension because I could not stand hitting bumps stops on every speed bump. New rear springs (OME913s), new shocks (Gabriels), and cranking the T-bars; the ride was night and day. It went from sloppy to stiff, which I would say is more truck-like. Plus, I gained a little over 2" of lift. :thumbleft:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,577 Posts
I found the monroe shocks to be WAY too loose. My 99 would bottom out and bounce the truck around. I put OMEs up front and bilsteins out back and the difference is night and day.

-Tad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help and info. I'm going to change the sway bar bushings, crank the t-bars and install the OME springs.

Best place to source OME springs? Is the spring considered a lift kit, because I see you gained 2inches of lift?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
Yeah, those are the ones I had on mine (913). It says .75" lift, but I got a little over 2". BTW...that site is way expensive because if you didn't notice the price is per spring. I bought mine at about $79 per spring from Davesport.com. It's not really a lift kit because you're just buying the springs, but they do lift. It's actually better lifted. IMO, It should of came from the factory this way. If you wanna go cheaper...you could find some springs out of a newer 2nd gen trooper that would give you about an 1" or 2" and be better than your current springs.
Also, Amazon has the greasable poly sway bar bushings with free shipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ZuBrew said:
Yeah, those are the ones I had on mine (913). It says .75" lift, but I got a little over 2". BTW...that site is way expensive because if you didn't notice the price is per spring. I bought mine at about $79 per spring from Davesport.com. It's not really a lift kit because you're just buying the springs, but they do lift. It's actually better lifted. IMO, It should of came from the factory this way. If you wanna go cheaper...you could find some springs out of a newer 2nd gen trooper that would give you about an 1" or 2" and be better than your current springs.
Also, Amazon has the greasable poly sway bar bushings with free shipping.
Thanks for the tip on Davesport. I'll get the springs through them.

I had the car on the lift today and this cranking the t-bars has me all confused. Does anyone have a DIY with pictures on how its done? I saw the big 27mm bolt on the underside, and I tried to loosen/tighten that bolt but it didnt seem to do anything. Any tips/tricks would be a big help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, I just read this DIY ( http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.ht ... Adjustment ) and if what I read is correct, 4 full clockwise turns of the 27mm bolt will actually raise the front of the truck?

When I had the truck on the lift, I could, kind of, see into where the torsion bar meets the 27mm bolt and I have no idea on how turning that bolt would adjust the front of the car. Thats why I stopped working on it because I figured I was doing something wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
877 Posts
4 full turns is equal to approximately an inch. You won't be able to tell until the truck is back on the ground. What I do is measure each side, jack the front up, crank the bars (using the 4 turns = inch rule), let the truck back down, and then measure to see where it's at. Keep doing this until it's at the height you want on both sides. Remember cranking one side affects the other and also the rear so be sure to take those measurements as well. Good luck.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top