That’s a clean ride, I really like that air bag sticker. Hats off for that long drive. Not sure I’d had the guts or nuts to do that. Congrats on your 1st gen!
New owner of 1990 XS 2.8 5spd in NJ
Hi All,
Just picked up my 1990 XS (2.8, 5spd) in white over tan. Truck spent it's entire life north of San Francisco until I drove it 3k miles home to NJ last week. If you are in NJ or know a good Isuzu mechanic in the area, LMK. I love to work on cars but may occasionally need to pay someone to repair due to schedule, lack of lspace, etc. Anyway, great trip home with my 16 yr old son and the Trooper performed admirably, even if somewhat slow going through the Sierra Nevada and Rockies. Did any oild change and greased the suspension as soon as I got home.
Benefits of the Cali Trooper are many: zero frame rot/rust, only two tiny amounts of minor rust and interior good except for driver's seat and carpet. The truck has 213k but was a well cared for daily driver for the PO.
Here is what has been done in last 20k miles:
full tune up, battery, KYB shocks/poly bushings, tires, catalytic converter/exhaust, timing belt, radiator, hoses, water pump, serp belt, ignition module, fuel pump, starter, amd rotors/pads.
Immediate needs:
A/C compressor is supposedly leaking (hot summer coming and I daily the Trooper)
Despite greasing the suspension, can be a bit squeaky after a long drive. Maybe rear springs, bushings and/ball joints?
New rubber door/window weatherstripping...loud at vent windows when on highway. Will try to find/use some rubber restorer but suspect I need new rubber (anywhere to find? Vent window rummer in particular?)
Any type of underspray or paint recommended to prepare for winters in Northeast?
Eventually:
Will eventually need a clutch and will do RMS when I do clutch. Seems to not like shifting into 2nd when cold...fine once warmed up.
Cosmetics (new carpet, seat covers, perhaps a Maaco respray in a year or so) and a good roof basket will also be on the list. Would also be great to figure out an armrest solution for long drives.
Dream:
3.4 swap, but I am not sure I have the time/skills and would need help or have to find someone to tackle. I want to keep this truck for a long time so willing to spend to get the truck in order.
Anyway, been lurking on the forums for months and this community seems great! Hope some of you are near or in NJ and we can meet up!
Owen
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Just picked up my 1990 XS (2.8, 5spd) in white over tan. Truck spent it's entire life north of San Francisco until I drove it 3k miles home to NJ last week. If you are in NJ or know a good Isuzu mechanic in the area, LMK. I love to work on cars but may occasionally need to pay someone to repair due to schedule, lack of lspace, etc. Anyway, great trip home with my 16 yr old son and the Trooper performed admirably, even if somewhat slow going through the Sierra Nevada and Rockies. Did any oild change and greased the suspension as soon as I got home.
Benefits of the Cali Trooper are many: zero frame rot/rust, only two tiny amounts of minor rust and interior good except for driver's seat and carpet. The truck has 213k but was a well cared for daily driver for the PO.
Here is what has been done in last 20k miles:
full tune up, battery, KYB shocks/poly bushings, tires, catalytic converter/exhaust, timing belt, radiator, hoses, water pump, serp belt, ignition module, fuel pump, starter, amd rotors/pads.
Immediate needs:
A/C compressor is supposedly leaking (hot summer coming and I daily the Trooper)
Despite greasing the suspension, can be a bit squeaky after a long drive. Maybe rear springs, bushings and/ball joints?
New rubber door/window weatherstripping...loud at vent windows when on highway. Will try to find/use some rubber restorer but suspect I need new rubber (anywhere to find? Vent window rummer in particular?)
Any type of underspray or paint recommended to prepare for winters in Northeast?
Eventually:
Will eventually need a clutch and will do RMS when I do clutch. Seems to not like shifting into 2nd when cold...fine once warmed up.
Cosmetics (new carpet, seat covers, perhaps a Maaco respray in a year or so) and a good roof basket will also be on the list. Would also be great to figure out an armrest solution for long drives.
Dream:
3.4 swap, but I am not sure I have the time/skills and would need help or have to find someone to tackle. I want to keep this truck for a long time so willing to spend to get the truck in order.
Anyway, been lurking on the forums for months and this community seems great! Hope some of you are near or in NJ and we can meet up!
Owen
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where in NJ? (the house style in the one picture look like Teaneck/Bergenfield area) im in Bergen County, Paramus area. I dont do side work, but do have parts that would be cheap to ship 
were moving to TN in a couple months but welcome to the site. the 2.8L is a great motor, under powered and often a leaker....but 300k motor if maintained!! and the 5 speed....perfect match to that motor
Ron
were moving to TN in a couple months but welcome to the site. the 2.8L is a great motor, under powered and often a leaker....but 300k motor if maintained!! and the 5 speed....perfect match to that motorRon
Hi Ron,where in NJ? (the house style in the one picture look like Teaneck/Bergenfield area) im in Bergen County, Paramus area. I dont do side work, but do have parts that would be cheap to ship
Ron
In Westfield, Union County but only 20-25 miles down the Parkway from you. Congratulations on escaping New Jersey for a state with lower cost of living and taxes! I have a good friend in Knoxville and have spent some time in tennessee. He is a retired FBI agent. We have at least five more years here as I have a kid going into 8th grade next year and two others in high school. After that, we are out of here for somewhere cheaper. In the meantime, maybe we can try to meet up before you move. If you have some parts you're looking to unload, I may have some interest depending on what you have so we could also discuss that.
As for the 2.8, best I can tell is I have some minor oil leaking from the dome covers but that looks to be about it. I plan to do oil changes every three or four thousand miles and try to prolong the life of this 2.8 for at least a couple years. I would love to figure out how to source a 3.4 and get it ready on an engine stand so that I can drop it in when the time comes. I have to believe that 200hp would make a world of difference. For now, I'll just enjoy going slow and make sure I give myself plenty of lead time pulling out onto 78!
I took it to a local mechanic and asked him to put it up on the lift so I could get a good look underneath and I was amazed by how clean it is. California and the Southwest is really the best place to buy an older vehicle. I spent my day using some rubber restore on all the gaskets around the doors and windows hoping to keep out some wind and reduce a bit of highway road noise. Need to plan a day to do a very good interior and exterior cleaning and get the old rug out of there and see what's going on underneath. Best I can tell I have zero broad or rust near the rear wheel wells or anywhere else. There is a tiny bit of bubbling on the passenger side fender right at the bottom where the wheel well almost meets the door. Looks like one of the fender liners had a broken piece of rubber so it pushed all mud and road debris up in there. Cleaned it all out good and looks like very minor repair to do. As I mentioned, she doesn't like to go into second until warmed up. As soon as I'm driving for a few minutes it shifts very well but that second gear doesn't like cold start.
Anyway, it would be great to meet up at some point and I'm happy to come out your way and meet for a coffee or a beer or whatever!
Owen
Very decent rig. My 2st V6 Troop was a white "S" model. Looks like a good base for a project build.
On the clutch, you may have balky hydraulics or air in the system. Also the clutch hydraulic damper on the driver's side inner fender well tends to cause problems. You may find your clutch action improves by just blocking-out the damper, mine did. Here's how:
www.planetisuzoo.com
The hydraulic lines are really difficult to bleed. Back-bleeding, from the bottom to the top, seems to help. Or using a pressurized brake bleeder. Another way is to bypass all of the steel & rubber lines, and have a special-length braided hose made up. This will go directly from the master cylinder to the slave, bypassing all of the old equipment.
There's a company that's familar with making these:
www.ameriflexhose.com
Ask for Benjamin.
A thread here: Clutch problems
This thread has the measurements and size/type of the fittings, if you have a hose mfr local, you could have them make it up.
Clutch-wise, when you do replace it, use a clutch meant for a '91 4WD 3.1 Isuzu Pickup. This clutch has a larger-diameter disc and better holding power. It'll fit the 2.8 just fine. Surface your flywheel to remove the wear ridge, or just pick up a new one. They're not too $$pendy.
Look up parts on Rockauto.com, they have quite a few for our rigs. And armed with part numbers, you can search places like eBay for deals on those parts.
I have info on the 3.4 swap, collected over 20+ years. Let me know if you're interested in that and we can get the files sent to you.
The little GM 60-deg V6 responds well to power-adders, just Old-School hot-rod stuff. When you're ready to jump into that, we'll have plenty of tips for you.
Congrats on your Gen I find, & Welcome to the Planet................ed
On the clutch, you may have balky hydraulics or air in the system. Also the clutch hydraulic damper on the driver's side inner fender well tends to cause problems. You may find your clutch action improves by just blocking-out the damper, mine did. Here's how:
10-Minute Clutch Damper Defeat
Been wanting to do this for a long time, finally got around to it! I was tired of the poor clutch operation, even after a complete change of fluid and bleeding with a Mightyvac. I didn't want to open up the hydraulic system, as others have done, and install a coupler in place of the damper...
www.planetisuzoo.com
The hydraulic lines are really difficult to bleed. Back-bleeding, from the bottom to the top, seems to help. Or using a pressurized brake bleeder. Another way is to bypass all of the steel & rubber lines, and have a special-length braided hose made up. This will go directly from the master cylinder to the slave, bypassing all of the old equipment.
There's a company that's familar with making these:
HOME | ameriflex
www.ameriflexhose.com
Ask for Benjamin.
A thread here: Clutch problems
This thread has the measurements and size/type of the fittings, if you have a hose mfr local, you could have them make it up.
Clutch-wise, when you do replace it, use a clutch meant for a '91 4WD 3.1 Isuzu Pickup. This clutch has a larger-diameter disc and better holding power. It'll fit the 2.8 just fine. Surface your flywheel to remove the wear ridge, or just pick up a new one. They're not too $$pendy.
Look up parts on Rockauto.com, they have quite a few for our rigs. And armed with part numbers, you can search places like eBay for deals on those parts.
I have info on the 3.4 swap, collected over 20+ years. Let me know if you're interested in that and we can get the files sent to you.
The little GM 60-deg V6 responds well to power-adders, just Old-School hot-rod stuff. When you're ready to jump into that, we'll have plenty of tips for you.
Congrats on your Gen I find, & Welcome to the Planet................ed
Thank you! Excellent information about the clutch and much appreciated if you can send me the info on the 3.4 swap. I hope to get a couple of good weather days this weekend to do some maintenance on the trooper. I also have some play in the steering wheel which I understand be adjusted and I'm going to try to tackle that this weekend also.Very decent rig. My 2st V6 Troop was a white "S" model. Looks like a good base for a project build.
On the clutch, you may have balky hydraulics or air in the system. Also the clutch hydraulic damper on the driver's side inner fender well tends to cause problems. You may find your clutch action improves by just blocking-out the damper, mine did. Here's how:
10-Minute Clutch Damper Defeat
Been wanting to do this for a long time, finally got around to it! I was tired of the poor clutch operation, even after a complete change of fluid and bleeding with a Mightyvac. I didn't want to open up the hydraulic system, as others have done, and install a coupler in place of the damper...
The hydraulic lines are really difficult to bleed. Back-bleeding, from the bottom to the top, seems to help. Or using a pressurized brake bleeder. Another way is to bypass all of the steel & rubber lines, and have a special-length braided hose made up. This will go directly from the master cylinder to the slave, bypassing all of the old equipment.
There's a company that's familar with making these:
HOME | ameriflex
Ask for Benjamin.
A thread here: Clutch problems
This thread has the measurements and size/type of the fittings, if you have a hose mfr local, you could have them make it up.
Clutch-wise, when you do replace it, use a clutch meant for a '91 4WD 3.1 Isuzu Pickup. This clutch has a larger-diameter disc and better holding power. It'll fit the 2.8 just fine. Surface your flywheel to remove the wear ridge, or just pick up a new one. They're not too $$pendy.
Look up parts on Rockauto.com, they have quite a few for our rigs. And armed with part numbers, you can search places like eBay for deals on those parts.
I have info on the 3.4 swap, collected over 20+ years. Let me know if you're interested in that and we can get the files sent to you.
The little GM 60-deg V6 responds well to power-adders, just Old-School hot-rod stuff. When you're ready to jump into that, we'll have plenty of tips for you.
Congrats on your Gen I find, & Welcome to the Planet................ed
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
