Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. You have been so helpful since I bought my used (and not cared for very well) 1995 Honda Passport in September 2011.
I live in VA, so I need to pass an inspection every year to be legal. My truck in it's current state will not pass. I just lost my job and my truck is my only form of transportation. I have an 11 year old son, so driving is a necessity.
I have 3 basic problems.
-I need to find a shop who can help me pass inspection that I can trust. I just moved to VA from CA (in Sept) and I don't know anyone here. I am struggling financially and need to find a shop that I can trust and who will help me pass inspection. I'm not asking for anything illegal to happen, but I have way too much to fix and no money to do it with.
-One of the things that will prevent me from passing inspection is the fact that my hood latch spring is shot all to heck. Is this easy to replace? Can anyone talk my through it or point me to a post that describes (preferably with pictures) how to replace the spring?
-The other thing that I know for sure is going to keep me from passing inspection is my horn. Once in a great while it will honk, but 99.9% of the time, when the horn is pressed, nothing. I'm not sure exactly what this means, if it is a fuse or something else. I would appreciate any feedback on the horn as well.
I know this is a lot to ask. I'm sorry this post is so long. I am between a rock and a hard place and really need some help.
Thank you to everyone who bothers to read this.
I appreciate any help or light someone can shed on my situation
-Katie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,707 Posts
I'm no Passport expert, but the hood & horn should be fairly universal issues. With a few tools they should be relatively easy to fix. Repast this in Drivetrain Issues, the experts should see it there. I'm sure we can get you into passing condition.

~psguardian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,284 Posts
Where are you located ? (Town is good. Don't get specific.)

I'm kind of hoping that someone near you, will have a look.

This should only take a few minutes to fix. And should cost nothing, or close to it.

If you were closer, I'd have a look at it !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
On hood spring do you mean the spring that causes the hood to pop up a little when you pull the hood release under the dash?

On the horn it would be simple for someone with a volt meter or even test lamp to isolate the problem. Disconnect the wire tot he horn(s) and see if there is 12v at the connector when the horn is pressed. If there is voltage you have a bad horn which would have to be less than $ 5 at salvage and the horn could be from almost any car built in the last 50 years.

Wish I was closer than 1500 miles away and would be glad to take a look. Is sad commentary on state of auto repair industry when consumers are worried about getting taken for a ride on stuff as remedial as this. Hopefully someone closer to the area can refer you to a trustworthy shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
X2 on location several long term members in va also all border states at the borders
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
What part of VA? If you are in Hampton Roads there's a Merchant's Tires near Independence Blvd/Haygood in Virginia Beach that will take care of you. Also one near Dam Neck Road and General Booth that is helpful.

State inspection isn't required to get tags/title but if you have VA plates and no inspection sticker you will get stopped. If you fail inspection you have 14 days to get reinspected and pay $1 more for it. The state inspector will tell you what failed. You absolutely DO NOT have to have your work done at the same place, but, you need to return it there to be reinspected for $1. If you go elsewhere you'll pay the full inspection fee again.

The main areas they check are tire depth, steering, shocks, brakes, and exhaust leaks along with cracks in the windshields. The driver's window must roll up/down, etc. If your wheel bearings need repacking it will fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
Yeah, give us a town/city/county. I'm in Fredericksburg, and the work you need is fairly simple. I'd love to help and I know a good inspection shop by me if it's close for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am located in the Hampton Roads area.
Reading some of the responses I've received, there are a few more issues than I originally thought.
I'm sure the suspension has never been maintained.
My driver's side window will roll down, but needs to be pushed to get back up.
I replaced the front rotors, pads and repacked the barings about a month ago, but I'm getting a metal on metal grind when I brake now. (Not sure what is going on)
I was screwing around with the hood latch yesterday and decided to lube it with WD40 and the dang thing decided to start working. Hopefully it will work on inspection day.
My biggest concern is probably my emissions. I don't know enough about cars to know exactly what is wrong, but the engine sputters and stalls a lot. It also hesitates and runs a little rough. I suspect it could be the catalytic converter, but like I said I really don't knowbenough about cars.

I truly appreciate all the help. I bought this car on craigslist when I moved out here from CA. I really needed it for work and to get my son to and from school, but it has turned into a nightmare. I know there is a lot that needs to be fixed, but I just don't have the money.
Again, thank you all.
Katie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I don't know how things are in va but here in wv I have never had an inspection that checks all of those things. I have some friends in va with their little slammed hondas and hids with half the car not working and still get a sticker lol. Every time I have had an inspection they just looked and made sure I had a converter, checked all my lights and tires. I am trying to get a hold of my friend right now to see if he knows of a place that doesn't check all of that crap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
KatieC said:
My driver's side window will roll down, but needs to be pushed to get back up.
Never seen that an issue. I wouldn't stress over it.

I replaced the front rotors, pads and repacked the barings about a month ago, but I'm getting a metal on metal grind when I brake now. (Not sure what is going on)
Could be an issue.

I was screwing around with the hood latch yesterday and decided to lube it with WD40 and the dang thing decided to start working. Hopefully it will work on inspection day.
This is a safety inspection. Not a quality of vehicle inspection. This is nothing.

My biggest concern is probably my emissions. I don't know enough about cars to know exactly what is wrong, but the engine sputters and stalls a lot. It also hesitates and runs a little rough. I suspect it could be the catalytic converter, but like I said I really don't know enough about cars.
Nothing to worry about for a safety inspection. You'll have an issue with getting a VA plate, but for safety, this isn't important.

I say, take the inspection and let us know. I think we can get you through this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
Welcome aboard again,I lived in hampton high for 2 years go warriors...damn I'm old lol ...if you need help pm me ; "know" a zu mechanic that lives in va beach or newport news...I think.....robbie where do you live now :mrgreen:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Complete list of items checked:

Brakes for linings and leaks.
Parking brake must work and hold vehicle in place.
Headlights must all work and be properly aligned.
All other bulbs must be operational (turn signals, all lights in the 3rd brake light, etc...I got nailed for this last one upon my first inspection in VA....1 out of 4 lights was burned out in the 3rd brake light).\
Turn signals and hazards must work.
Suspension: leaks in shocks will result in a denial; too much free play or bounce in suspension travel, too much looseness in the steering links, power steering leaks, etc, wheel bearings cannot be loose.
Tires with cracks, too little tread (down to any tread wear markers), or bald spots due to misalignment of wheels.
Mirrors and horn must work.
No stickers or cracks in windows and the driver's door glass must be operational.
Both the driver's door and front passenger door handles must work on the inside and outside and the doors must latch properly.
Windshield wipers must work and have no splits or tears (second thing that dinged me last year along with wheel bearings needing repacking).
Exhaust cannot have missing components or non-factory items installed. No leaks.
Rear license plate must be illuminated.
Check operation of hood latch and all fluids under the hood (power steering, wiper fluid, brake fluid, etc).
Check pollution controls (and, yes, a check engine light that is on will fail a vehicle).
Driver's seat cannot be loose; all seat belts must work.
Check air bag readiness and see if the light is working (when ignition turned on and not started).
Check fuel system and fuel cap for integrity.
Check floor pan for rust or holes.

If it passes all of these then you get a sticker. If not you have 15 business days from date of rejection to repair and reinspect (going to the same place again saves you money). No station can require that you fix problems at that location; you are free to pay them or someone else to repair the problems or you can do it yourself.

Source: Born in VA and lived there about half my life.

Emissions testing is not done in Hampton Roads. The state inspection only does a cursory inspection to see if something has been removed and might check to see if the CEL light is operational. Many people just pull the bulb out since the inspectors don't use OBDII hardware to see if the bulb is actually there.

Try the guys where I recommended if you live close to them; General Booth Blvd is near the Virginia Beach oceanfront and Independence Blvd is closer to the I-64/264 interchange near the border with Norfolk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
And do keep in mind as I have said that you DO NOT have to have the same facility do the repairs to pass inspection if something fails. State inspections don't generate money on the basis of handing out stickers, but, many techs are under pressure from the service managers to try to persuade you that something needs fixing and that you should do it there.

You are free to have anyone fix the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have the same similar issues, well-kinda. I'm a broke college graduate that's having issues finding a job, as well as paying loans, and due to this my cosigners (mom and dad), are no longer my "mom and dad", and I have to put the truck in my name and get the truck inspected. Since the plates were in TX and it didn't matter to state police whether or not the inspection was current, I need it inspected now. My check engine light is on and I know why, my air/ratio sensor is on. I need to know if it will pass inspection with a check engine light on... the part I need to replace it is 300 dollars... and I just don't have that, I'm struggling enough paying rent at this point. It isn't bad, I run through gas about the same as if the air/ratio sensor was working, there's no smoke, everything else should be fine. I was told my breaks were wearing thin last year, but I'm pretty sure my breaks are fine. At least they should be, I don't really slam on them or press really hard when I drive. But I need to know if I'll pass.. and if I don't if there's some where I can go that is more leanient on inspections.. I live in hampton roads.. If there is any help, I would greatly appreciate it. I know a lot about my truck, my ex ran it into a tree two years ago when we had all the snow as they put it " I've driven in the snow more times than I can count, you have never driven in the snow", so I've done a lot of front-end work on it on my own with little help. Please let me know.. the sooner the better.. I have to do it tomorrow before my "dad" calls the cops and reports the truck stolen, even though I have the title with his signature and a copy of it that also has his signature on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hampton Roads doesn't have emissions testing. I looked through the safety guide and didn't see the check engine light on the list but when I went to Advanced Auto when I bought my headlight to replace it, they said that the sensor won't fail the inspection but the check engine light might. I wanted to look more into detail on it though because the last time I asked them a question, the person I dealt with said that the way to fix my sensor was to put premium gas inside my tank and drive on the interstate until I was nearly on E. Of course the person I am, looked into it, and have no idea where she got the idea to put premium gas in a vehicle that only runs on unleaded.

I may have 15 days to get the vehicle fixed whatever it may that causes it to fail, but I literally do not have the funds in order to fix whatever issue may arise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,257 Posts
If you lived closer I would help you out with your brakes/rotors/bearings or whatever is making the sound. I suspect it's just a worn pad.

Sucks to see you go through all this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
You know, you might just be able to unhook your battery for 5 minutes or so to clear the light and go get it inspected real quick.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top