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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was looking around on www.Rocky-Road.com and found the page
with their rock rails. It says at the bottom of the page that if your vehicle
isn't listed and you live in the Salt Lake City area, they might be able to
build you a set for free. I got in touch with Glenn up there, he went ahead
and scheduled some time to work on the Rodeo.

Those guys up at Rocky-Road did an incredible job. They had the thing
back to me in two days too. They are looking for a FIRST GEN RODEO,
and FIRST OR SECOND GEN AMIGO to do the same thing. Free set of
Rock Rails if you just call them up and tell them you want to be the
prototype. You just have to be willing to drop your vehicle off in Heber,
Utah and leave it with them for a few days.







 

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wow those look really nice!! and can't beat the price :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They are bolted on but you could weld them if you wanted. I will get some
pictures from underneath. They are also bolted to the body seam to
provide even better protection to the body panels.

They are already on the website. The plain Rockrails are $279.00 and
the Supersliders (like mine) are $349.00. They also make them for the
VX and the 98-03 Trooper.

The difference is that the Rockrails are the 2" square tubing tucked just
under the doors and the Supersliders have the extra round piece that
comes out of the side to protect the body better.

These are guaranteed to NEVER bend. If they do you can simply call them
and they well trade you for a new set.

http://www.rocky-road.com/rockrail.html

Like I said before, if you have a truck that is not listed on their site and
live close enough, I'd hit them up for a free set. The first two gens of
Troopers are not there and the first gen Rodeo and first and second gen
Amigo (Rodeo Sport) aren't either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are the mounting pics as promised several months ago.
These are the frame mounting points.




These are pictures of the seam mounting points. Notice the bar just
behind the seem. This will help protect the body.




This is both mounting points together.




 

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did you sleeve the frame?If not then those bolts will probley crush the frame where they are bolted and keep coming loose.
Also not sure about tieing the body to the skidder since the body will actually move upwords of 1/2".
This combined with loose frame bolts could tweak the pinch seam or rockers.
Just my .02
 

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I was going to ask the same thing. The body does move especially when you wheel it and get it all twisted up. I'd think I'd remove the pinch seam bolt.

And if they didn't sleeve the frame, I'd pull them and do so. The second gens frame isn't quite as thick as the older Isuzu frames. I do think it would bend a bit easier.

Joe
 

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when Matt at Indy4x did my sliders he told me that the body and frame can move about 3/4". I asked him to get them up as tight as possible so he mounted the sliders at about 3/4" below the body and the sliders have put little indentions into the body seam even though they were mounted 3/4" below the body! It is no big deal and really minor, but after seeing how much play the body has relative to the frame, I don't know if I would attach the sliders to the body - I think those bolts are going to pull through the sheet metal after a while...
 

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by the way, those look good!
 

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With the way the frame mount bolts are I think mounting to the body should actually help. I just got mine y'day and the frame bolts dont go all the way through the frame. They supply 3/8"x1" self tapping bolts. You drill mounting holes the the bolts just thread into the frame. DBAIRDs looks to be the same way. Without the pinch weld being bolted I can see the frame bolts just pulling out. I'm going to just bolt mine for now just so they are mounted then have them welded later on.

Thanks for the pics, helps explain a few things about mounting. I can see I'm going to have to modify the front mounts a bit like they did (first pic), mine are all square.
 

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Ewww....

I don't like that at all. Self tapping bolts to hold a set of rock bars on??

I'd not use a high lift on those. I know now why they say you'll never bend them :roll:

Look I'm not downing the product, unhook the body mount, sleeve the frame and put some good through bolts on there and you'll be golden.

Joe
 

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Look I'm not downing the product, unhook the body mount, sleeve the frame and put some good through bolts on there and you'll be golden.
X2

I know that there is alot of pressure put on sliders when a 5000lb truck lands on them after a 12" drop off a rock.
I'd just hate to see those peel up and wipe out alot of pretty sheetmetal.

And since our frames are only ~1/8 thick you may have 2 threads of engagement at the most and with only 2 3/8 bolts that are maybe grade 2. at each mount this is asking for failier.

We are not nick picking you,those sliders look good I would either use clamps and get them to contact the frame and then weld them on.Or drill out the frame thru both sides to about 3/4" and sleeve them with a pc of 3/4" dom weld tube to frame grind smooth and then use grade 8 bolts (1/2")to bolt them on.
 

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I had a friend of mine that wanted to keep his sliders bolt on, so he fabbed up a "U" that fit around the outside of the frame, welded his sliders to the U, then bolted them on using bolts that went all the way through the frame and U. The setup worked very well. The U acted as a clamp on the frame so you didn't have all the work being done by the bolts.

I wish I had mine done that way so you can take them off to repair or paint them from time to time...
 

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Bansil said:
Also not sure about tieing the body to the skidder since the body will actually move upwords of 1/2".
This combined with loose frame bolts could tweak the pinch seam or rockers.
Just my .02
X2...my .03 stand outside your cab and lean into it. Just doing that can make it move a 1/2"
 

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what does it mean to "sleeve" a frame?
Drill a hole in your frame and then use a piece of pipe or DOM all the way through the frame and weld that "sleeve" into the frame. This way there isn't any way that you can squeeze the frame as you tighten the bolt.

You can see where if you just put a bolt all the way through the frame, and then start tightening it, you can collapse the frame. The sleeve prevents this.

Joe
 

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slipper said:
what does it mean to "sleeve" a frame?
You drill larger holes through the frame and weld in some tubing. That will prevent the bolts from crushing the frame where they bolt through.

I think these sliders mount too low to allow sleeves big enough for 1/2" bolts. The holes are pretty close to the bottom of the frame. The holes on the mounts are also pretty far towards the edge so dont know if they can be drilled out large enough for 1/2" bolts.

On a positive note, I have mine mounted the same way for now with the supplied hardware. I got the rodeo pretty twisted up y'day and nothing bad happened. No bolts popping out, nothing breaking, and no odd noises. The body did twist a little bit. When I opened the tail gate the latch was a little bit off but not enough to prevent opening and closing.


 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The sliders look great Dave!
 

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You can see them? LOL

They are hard to see with everything being black. Then the poor quality of my crappy cell phone camera doesnt help. Once I finally get all the work done on it and get it cleaned up I'll get some better pics.
 
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