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145 Posts
Has anyone used it, and what doya think? I got that, the last oil change. Shes getting close to 90K miles, and I want the motor to last.
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Whoa that is some thick oil. You are in Florida where you are safer running thick oil, but personally I'd run the recommended weight. The owner's manual should have a chart that shows you what weight to run based on the weather. I've never seen higher than plain 30 weight listed in an Isuzu manual. They probably recommend something around 10W30 for your climate.
Personally I think that running a quality oil like Mobil 1 is a very good choice. Changing it at appropriate intervals and using a good oil filter is probably better than the brand of oil though. Nothing is worse for the engine than dirt, weather it be in the oil or coming in through the intake.
-Tad
Personally I think that running a quality oil like Mobil 1 is a very good choice. Changing it at appropriate intervals and using a good oil filter is probably better than the brand of oil though. Nothing is worse for the engine than dirt, weather it be in the oil or coming in through the intake.
-Tad
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145 Posts
Was thinking about running it for a few weeks, to see if some of the lifter noise would go away again. Then back to the 10/30. Im on the interstate, and kinda having to gun it while in traffic in Tampa. These freaks are always in a hurry. BTW, it dosent get really cold here.... I think the coldest its been has been around 40. And if its snowing up there, you can bet I ain't leaving florida.
Well, your Trooper doesn't have hydraulic lifters so running thicker oil won't cause the lifters to be quiet as they aren't filled with oil. I mean it probably won't hurt to try thicker oil I'd stick with oils that are within the range that the engine was designed for.
-Tad
-Tad
Not positive on other model years, but the oil viscosity chart from our 2002 rodeo 3.2L manual lists anything from a 5w-30 to a 20w-50 is ok depending on your ambient temp. It does say 10w-30 is the "preferred viscosity range".
Joel
Joel
Joined
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145 Posts
And theres still more to my reasoning. Ive done 4 of the sea foam runs through the oil, with 1000 mile intervals for the change. And Ive read that the stuff could be pretty harsh on the internals, so Im thinking a good coat of slime, and then the regular stuff. BTW, the seafoam, was only in for about 45 minutes. And have you ever driven in the traffic in central florida? Speed demons on one side, and the retireeeeeeees on the left, and they both want to get in your way.
next time, use ARX for cleaning, equally, if not more effective, and much safer on the engine... (helps seals, rather than hurts them like seafoam)... Auto-RX.com
as for oil viscosity... I was reading the results of a recent test done at a university. They measured engine wear by introducing some number of radiactive particals into the engine, then using an imager of sorts to measure the wear of the metal. (easier than tearing down an engine and micing everything).. What they found, was that the majority of engine wear occurs while the oil is still thick during warmup, after the oil is up to temp and flowing at optimal speeds, the wear slows down drastically. I recall something like 100 nanometers within the first 20 minuts on "thick, cold" oil, and then 5 nanometers of wear per hour of run time thereafter.
The point being, that the faster you get the flow up to speed, the better. Thicker oil will always flow a bit slower, and will take longer to flow as fast as a thinner oil during warmup...
So, even in warm climates, the lowest "W" rating possible is actually best because it results in better flow during startup/warmup..
Choosing a heavy weight like 15w50 can definetally have it's advantages in certain cituations, especially in engines that are run for long periods of time under heavy strain. In those situations, the oil gets very hot, and the extra thickness helps maintain proper oil film over parts. Heavy weights are also better for situations where the engine takes on a lot of dirt.
If you are using your trooper under normal circumstances, stick to thinner oils.
as for oil viscosity... I was reading the results of a recent test done at a university. They measured engine wear by introducing some number of radiactive particals into the engine, then using an imager of sorts to measure the wear of the metal. (easier than tearing down an engine and micing everything).. What they found, was that the majority of engine wear occurs while the oil is still thick during warmup, after the oil is up to temp and flowing at optimal speeds, the wear slows down drastically. I recall something like 100 nanometers within the first 20 minuts on "thick, cold" oil, and then 5 nanometers of wear per hour of run time thereafter.
The point being, that the faster you get the flow up to speed, the better. Thicker oil will always flow a bit slower, and will take longer to flow as fast as a thinner oil during warmup...
So, even in warm climates, the lowest "W" rating possible is actually best because it results in better flow during startup/warmup..
Choosing a heavy weight like 15w50 can definetally have it's advantages in certain cituations, especially in engines that are run for long periods of time under heavy strain. In those situations, the oil gets very hot, and the extra thickness helps maintain proper oil film over parts. Heavy weights are also better for situations where the engine takes on a lot of dirt.
If you are using your trooper under normal circumstances, stick to thinner oils.
Joined
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145 Posts
Like I said, you ever drive in central florida? Stop and go, aint just the jest of it. I remember having to gun it about 5 times the other day. Running away from freaky people wanting to shoot me cause I was going slower than they were. But its only temporary. And I do let it warm up for about 5 minutes in the am before I drive. Im just trying to be good to it. Ive managed to keep just about everything Ive owned including a 99 rodeo for well over 150K. Thanks for the input and the care, I will change it out in a week or so, when I get some aRx...
Letting the engine warm up fully before driving is just wasting time and gas. Just let the engine drop from high idle to normal idle and then drive away. That should usually take about 30 seconds in typical Florida winter weather. Once the engine warms up fully you can drive aggressively.
I spend time in Florida every year in Miami, and believe me your traffic is nothing compared to what I have to put up with in NY. Yes it's bad, but not that bad, not yet at least. It does seem to be getting worse down there as they develop the area more and more.
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Like just about everyone said, the best thing you can do is change the oil and oil filter regularly and use quality products.
Good luck!
I spend time in Florida every year in Miami, and believe me your traffic is nothing compared to what I have to put up with in NY. Yes it's bad, but not that bad, not yet at least. It does seem to be getting worse down there as they develop the area more and more.
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Like just about everyone said, the best thing you can do is change the oil and oil filter regularly and use quality products.
Good luck!
for the arx cleaning.... make sure to follow the instructions.... i suggest using regular "dino" oil for both the cleaning and rinsing phases, and possible doing 2 complete cleanin/rinsing phases...
The reason ARX is best when used with dino oil has something to do with the polerization of the product and the host oil... I don't understand it fully... but my best guess is that the ARX is extremally polerized,... it soaks into "crud" and then when you poor in fresh new unpolerized oil, it washes away the polerized crud better than synthetic would. Also dino oil seems to be better at reconditioning seals after they have been cleaned.... after the cleaning and rinsing phases are complete, feel free to switch back to the synthetic of your choice.
I realize that the tempuratures in florida are pretty warm... but oil temp is minimally effected by ambiant tempuratures in an engine that is up to operating temp.... The majority of the heat in the oil is put there from the combustion taking place in the engine. The harder the engine is run, the more heat... so driving style plays a larger role than temp... just something to think about... Like you were saying, the driving is crazy down there.. no doubt..
So.. lets assume you have it pedal to the medal very often... you are worried about the oil getting too hot and thinning out and loosing it's film strength and breaking down etc etc etc.. Heavy weight oil certainly can help prevent this problem, but as I was saying before, it is at the tradeoff of additional cold start wear.. A better solution, would be an oil cooler.. ideally a setup with a bypass and thermostatically controlled flow... such a project would also be an inviting time to look into bypass filtration. (Like an amsoil bypass filter setup) The setup would insure that the oil stays at a reasonable temp, and is being filtered much better. It would also increase the capacity of the system- a nice benifit.
on a side note, again... an interesting thing to note- As a result of thin oil flowing faster, it also tends to stay cooler, it's nothing major, but it's not uncommon to see a grade thinner actually run as much as 5 degrees cooler, the result is that the jump in grade has less effect on operating viscosity that would be expected.
lots of stuff to consider. hehe.... maybe a comprimize can be found in a 0w40 or 5w50 weight.
The reason ARX is best when used with dino oil has something to do with the polerization of the product and the host oil... I don't understand it fully... but my best guess is that the ARX is extremally polerized,... it soaks into "crud" and then when you poor in fresh new unpolerized oil, it washes away the polerized crud better than synthetic would. Also dino oil seems to be better at reconditioning seals after they have been cleaned.... after the cleaning and rinsing phases are complete, feel free to switch back to the synthetic of your choice.
I realize that the tempuratures in florida are pretty warm... but oil temp is minimally effected by ambiant tempuratures in an engine that is up to operating temp.... The majority of the heat in the oil is put there from the combustion taking place in the engine. The harder the engine is run, the more heat... so driving style plays a larger role than temp... just something to think about... Like you were saying, the driving is crazy down there.. no doubt..
So.. lets assume you have it pedal to the medal very often... you are worried about the oil getting too hot and thinning out and loosing it's film strength and breaking down etc etc etc.. Heavy weight oil certainly can help prevent this problem, but as I was saying before, it is at the tradeoff of additional cold start wear.. A better solution, would be an oil cooler.. ideally a setup with a bypass and thermostatically controlled flow... such a project would also be an inviting time to look into bypass filtration. (Like an amsoil bypass filter setup) The setup would insure that the oil stays at a reasonable temp, and is being filtered much better. It would also increase the capacity of the system- a nice benifit.
on a side note, again... an interesting thing to note- As a result of thin oil flowing faster, it also tends to stay cooler, it's nothing major, but it's not uncommon to see a grade thinner actually run as much as 5 degrees cooler, the result is that the jump in grade has less effect on operating viscosity that would be expected.
lots of stuff to consider. hehe.... maybe a comprimize can be found in a 0w40 or 5w50 weight.
Joined
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145 Posts
Gotcha, I went ahead and did the ARX with the oil in the crankcase. It was only a week old. And it has a new filter on it. As far as the oil cooler, is concerned. I just wanna keep the truck alive. Putting oil in, isnt that hard of a task. Im used to an oil burner, had a Marquis that burned a quart in 3k miles. Ran like a champ! My main concern is the intermittent rattle, that I hear when im accelerating, from 2nd to 3rd gear. Its kinda like knock, and ping, but not so much... It NEVER does it when the truck is sitting still. Only when im moving. BTW, I just got the light bar and sidesteps on her, and she looks like a MONSTER!
Thanks Boss's, for all the help!
J
Thanks Boss's, for all the help!
J
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