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I got my '88, 4ze1 all back together. And couldn't resist starting it up for the first time, and letting it warm up.

The "factory" manual says that the total capacity of the cooling system is 2.6 gallons. Haynes manual says 10.3 quarts. (2.575 gallons.)

Well, I poured three gallons of water in there.

It was still thirsty. I poured in two more, a bit at a time. Still, fairly quickly. Then about another quart, before it finally looked like it wasn't asking for more. (And it was good and hot by that time. I was watching water circulate in the rad, so I know the tstat was open by then.)

I turned it off shortly after that.

I did not see any steam. Saw a LOT of oil smoke for a while, but eventually that cleared up. (I had pbblaster and regular 5w30 oil in the cylinders. LOL)

So where was it going ?

The manual says the total capacity is 2.6 gallons. I put in twice that.

So, I decided to scroll down and look for the capacity for the oil, since I'll be changing that tomorrow...

The "factory" manual says the total capacity of the oil system with the filter is, 4.0 liters, or 1.06 us quarts. Total without the filter is 3.6 liters or 0.95 us quart. Seriously. This is not a typo.
oilcapacity.jpg

WTF ????

Haynes says the total capacity with filter is 4.4 quarts. That is more believeable.

Still, you have to wonder if EITHER is exactly correct...

Then we come to the valves.

Both manuals say that the valve clearance should be 0.008in or 0.20mm when cold. Both intake and exhaust. I have them set at that..........

There is a LOT of valve noise. Waaay more than there should be. Also rpms are way up there, so I have plenty more work to do tomorrow.

Now if I can just find the TRUE capacities, and valve clearance........
 

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as far as the valves, i know it's .008. done three valve adjustments on big red. all valve adjustments are to be done cold. start with #4 at TDC, adjust, move #3 to TDC, etc..

pretty sure the oil is somewhere around 4 quarts for the 2.6, usually for me its around that.
 

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Selador said:
I got my '88, 4ze1 all back together. And couldn't resist starting it up for the first time, and letting it warm up.

The "factory" manual says that the total capacity of the cooling system is 2.6 gallons. Haynes manual says 10.3 quarts. (2.575 gallons.)

Well, I poured three gallons of water in there.

It was still thirsty. I poured in two more, a bit at a time. Still, fairly quickly. Then about another quart, before it finally looked like it wasn't asking for more. (And it was good and hot by that time. I was watching water circulate in the rad, so I know the tstat was open by then.)

I turned it off shortly after that.

I did not see any steam. Saw a LOT of oil smoke for a while, but eventually that cleared up. (I had pbblaster and regular 5w30 oil in the cylinders. LOL)

So where was it going ?

The manual says the total capacity is 2.6 gallons. I put in twice that.

So, I decided to scroll down and look for the capacity for the oil, since I'll be changing that tomorrow...

The "factory" manual says the total capacity of the oil system with the filter is, 4.0 liters, or 1.06 us quarts. Total without the filter is 3.6 liters or 0.95 us quart. Seriously. This is not a typo.

WTF ????

Haynes says the total capacity with filter is 4.4 quarts. That is more believeable.

Still, you have to wonder if EITHER is exactly correct...

Then we come to the valves.

Both manuals say that the valve clearance should be 0.008in or 0.20mm when cold. Both intake and exhaust. I have them set at that..........

There is a LOT of valve noise. Waaay more than there should be. Also rpms are way up there, so I have plenty more work to do tomorrow.

Now if I can just find the TRUE capacities, and valve clearance........
HI JEFF I SEE WHERE YOUR PROB IS , THAT SHOP MANUAL DOES IN FACT HAVE A MIS PRINT THAT SHOULD BE
.95 GAL AND 1.06 GAL AND NO QT,S ,JERRY
 

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thebigbread said:
as far as the valves, i know it's .008. done three valve adjustments on big red. all valve adjustments are to be done cold. start with #4 at TDC, adjust, move #3 to TDC, etc..

pretty sure the oil is somewhere around 4 quarts for the 2.6, usually for me its around that.
Thank you.

JLEMOND said it is 0.06 for the intake, and 0.10 for the exhaust.
Think I'll go with that.

Couldn't leave it be, for the night, had to go back out and try again.

The dist is off one tooth., That's why the high rpms.

The valves are definitely way too noisy. (Too loose.)

And I found the reason why it is drinking water so badly.
leak.jpg

Got a leak, right here.

Makes my heart go pitter patter !!
I was worried that it was an internal leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
JLEMOND said:
HI JEFF I SEE WHERE YOUR PROB IS , THAT SHOP MANUAL DOES IN FACT HAVE A MIS PRINT THAT SHOULD BE
.95 GAL AND 1.06 GAL AND NO QT,S ,JERRY
Aha !

Ok, that makes much more sense.

And thanks again ! Where would I be without you around to set me right ? :blackeye:

:D :D :D
 

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Your first oil fill into a new engine will be closer to 5 quarts, there is about 2/3-3/4 of a quart that stays in the engine somewhere every time the oil & filter is changed, which only takes 4.2 quarts.
There are several errors in my '87 shop manual, including some torque settings. I got corrected pages from AllData.com, printed & inserted or just marked in red.
 

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Strange. My machinist set my valves to Jerry's specs and regarding oil and filter change, mine is always a tad over 5 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
shooter said:
Strange. My machinist set my valves to Jerry's specs and regarding oil and filter change, mine is always a tad over 5 quarts.
I am absolutely going to go with Jerry's specs.

And I'll be adding 4.5 quarts at first. Then checking the oil after it is run for the first time after that.
 

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Yep. He (the machinist / engine builder) and Jerry must know something others don't. He set mine at .06 and .10. I'll never forget, he said "they just do better at that spec. He's considered very good at that kind of thing so I thanked him and left. Super guy. Wish everyone here had access to someone like him. He loaned me a tap to clean the threads on my block for the head not knowing me from adam. Told him what I was doing and that also I didn't know what the heck what I was doing. He laughed and volunteered to drive 40 miles from his house if I needed him to help. Can't beat that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
shooter said:
Yep. He (the machinist / engine builder) and Jerry must know something others don't. He set mine at .06 and .10. I'll never forget, he said "they just do better at that spec. He's considered very good at that kind of thing so I thanked him and left. Super guy. Wish everyone here had access to someone like him. He loaned me a tap to clean the threads on my block for the head not knowing me from adam. Told him what I was doing and that also I didn't know what the heck what I was doing. He laughed and volunteered to drive 40 miles from his house if I needed him to help. Can't beat that.
That one's a keeper !
 

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Reminds me of the candid camera where the took a little car and hid extra gas tanks in it then went to a gas station and had him fill it. The guy was all confused as it took gallon after gallon of gas.
 

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Do those specs of 0.06 intake and 0.10 exhaust go for all the 4 cylinders...? I also assume that this is a cold adjustment, just for clarification. I have about 1500 miles on my new motor, and its awesome, but its getting the same power it was with the shot bearings, and the valves seem a little clattery to me.
 

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Still surprises me that any guy has trouble converting liters to gallons. Its printed on the top of every urinal. And really, the only thing to read while standing there lol.

3.8 liters per flush / 1 gallon per flush.

Now that I've told you that I bet you will always look and wont forget the conversion lol.
 

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roningun42 said:
Do those specs of 0.06 intake and 0.10 exhaust go for all the 4 cylinders...? I also assume that this is a cold adjustment, just for clarification. I have about 1500 miles on my new motor, and its awesome, but its getting the same power it was with the shot bearings, and the valves seem a little clattery to me.
No, Isuzu motors use a progressive valve lash system. #1 is 6/10, #2 is 7/11, #3 is 8/12 & #4 is 9/13. This increases intake velocity as the power band engages the harmonic balancer.
 

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Nothing so therapeutic as a good pulling of the leg!!!!! :twisted:

GB
 

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********** said:
roningun42 said:
Do those specs of 0.06 intake and 0.10 exhaust go for all the 4 cylinders...? I also assume that this is a cold adjustment, just for clarification. I have about 1500 miles on my new motor, and its awesome, but its getting the same power it was with the shot bearings, and the valves seem a little clattery to me.
No, Isuzu motors use a progressive valve lash system. #1 is 6/10, #2 is 7/11, #3 is 8/12 & #4 is 9/13. This increases intake velocity as the power band engages the harmonic balancer.
Sorry. Let me clarify. I meant, are those specs common to all the models of 4 cylinder motors? Not the individual cylinders...
 

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roningun42 said:
********** said:
roningun42 said:
Do those specs of 0.06 intake and 0.10 exhaust go for all the 4 cylinders...? I also assume that this is a cold adjustment, just for clarification. I have about 1500 miles on my new motor, and its awesome, but its getting the same power it was with the shot bearings, and the valves seem a little clattery to me.
No, Isuzu motors use a progressive valve lash system. #1 is 6/10, #2 is 7/11, #3 is 8/12 & #4 is 9/13. This increases intake velocity as the power band engages the harmonic balancer.
Sorry. Let me clarify. I meant, are those specs common to all the models of 4 cylinder motors? Not the individual cylinders...
WHEN YOU SAY ALL MODELS OF 4 CYL MOTORS , NO ALL 2.3 AND 2.6 ISUZU ENGS PRETTY MUCH YES, THE SPECS MAY CHANGE FROM YEAR TO YEAR SLIGHTLY FROM 6/10 6/8 8/10 IT VAIRED SLIGHTLY BUT YOU ARE SAFE WITH 6/10 AS LONG AS THE VLV,S ARE ADJUSTE D AT REGULAR INTERNVALS, AND ARNT MAKING ANY EXCESS NOISE YOU SHOULD BE FINE, THE PROB WITH ANY VLV IS AS THEY WEAR DOWN ON THE EDGES THE VLVS WILL TEND TO RECESS INTO THE VLV SEAT AND AS SUCH YOU WILL LOOSE THE CORRECT VLV GAP AND THEN THE VLV WILL BURN, AND YOU WILL LOOSE POWER ,ROUGH IDEL QUALITY, .
 

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roningun42 said:
********** said:
roningun42 said:
Do those specs of 0.06 intake and 0.10 exhaust go for all the 4 cylinders...? I also assume that this is a cold adjustment, just for clarification. I have about 1500 miles on my new motor, and its awesome, but its getting the same power it was with the shot bearings, and the valves seem a little clattery to me.
No, Isuzu motors use a progressive valve lash system. #1 is 6/10, #2 is 7/11, #3 is 8/12 & #4 is 9/13. This increases intake velocity as the power band engages the harmonic balancer.
Sorry. Let me clarify. I meant, are those specs common to all the models of 4 cylinder motors? Not the individual cylinders...
Ok, well, I just couldn't resist... the door was wide open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
roningun42,

In a nutshell, to alleviate any confusion...

The clearance is 6/10 for all 4 cylinders.

Yes, this is common for the 2.3 and 2.6 engines.
 

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Thank you JLEMOND and Selador. that is what I was asking.
 
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