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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm documenting the installation of a Lokka "aussie" locker in the 12-bolt on my '90 Trooper.

I started by draining the diff, jacking up the rear, putting stands under the rear axle, and putting the tires under the rear for extra security.


I got under the truck a little prematurely and disconnected the drive shaft, would have been easier to do this after pulling the axles out (would have kept me from getting in and out from under the truck)


Remove the rear calipers 2 bolts each and hang either on the rear springs or the tires now sitting under the rear.


Remove the axle flange, 4 nuts *these attach to free floating studs with a bracket between 2, it may be necessary to make sure the stud remains pulled out as you remove the nut. In the off chance that one stud free spins even when pulled out, you will need to remove the disc and wedge a screwdriver or pry bar between the stud head and the bracket meant to keep it from turning. I know because it happened to me, wouldn't expect it any other way.


Now get back under there and remove all the bolts and 2 nuts holding the 3rd asm in place. It probably won't budge afterwards, a good size punch/prybar and a hammer tapping from the top should get it loose. Then pull it out, keep in mind if you don't eat lots of wheaties you won't be removing this with one hand......it's heavy. It's out in the pic sorry both hands were occupied getting it out LOL.


Put the 3rd in a vice (not like pictured) clamp it along the mounting edge so the input shaft is parallel to the bench.....trust me it's easier to lock in this way.


Mark the caps and the ring gear to carrier. I used the letters a,b,c,d on the caps (one on each side of the cap) and e on the ring gear/carrier. I'm a little obsessive and even marked the cap bolts :D


Remove the caps w/bolts, then pull the entire carrier asm out. I set the races aside keeping them with their perspective caps (i.e. Left and Right) Make sure you marked the ring gear to carrier, then remove the bolts and then the ring gear.
*edit note* the instructions tell you not to mess with the end cap adjustment when removing the caps, pay no attention there are none, the instructions are somewhat generic.


Remove the Cross Shaft pin use a punch, it only comes out from one side


To avoid confusion, this is where you insert the punch to get it out. Look at the small hole.


Slide the cross shaft out and inspect it, mainly where the gears ride on it. The instructions say even .002's of wear could be an issue with the locker.


Rotate the gears and remove, NOTE when you remove the spline gears make sure you note which side of the carrier they came from as well as any thrust washer.


Apply a light coat of grease to the new spline gears, and install the thrust washers removed from the original gears.


Install the new spline gears into the carrier and rotate a few times to help seat them in place.


grease the cam gears, put a little more than I did it will help hold them in place.......I obviously didn't put enough on


grease the pins and install in the slotted groves with the tit down, grease the spacer while your at it


put the asm into the diff


use a screwdriver or a pic (dental tools work great) to move the pins into the holes on the opposite sides


install the springs and make sure they fully seat over the tit on the pin, the dental tool helped alot


re-install the cross shaft


reinstall the cross shaft pin (from this direction)


take a punch and detent the housing so the pin won't back out


re-install the ring gear *make sure you align it with the carrier in the previously marked position*


reinstall the ring gear bolts with loc-tite


torque to specs


in this pattern


when torquing it helps to put the carrier in a vice like this


reinstall the carrier and caps *previously marked*


torque to specs


double check everything and get one good last look at it before it goes in the axle


add some sealant as shown and torque properly


reinstall your drive shaft, fill axle with 80w90 1.8L ,reinstall the tires, perform the lock out test per instructions , remove the jacks and lower, test drive
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok so after some confirmation that the instructions are generic and the tolerances are a guideline. Assembly will re-commence tomorrow AM and I will add to the first post. On a side note I was editing the above for the 3rd or 4th time when I realize you can see me in the first pic........freaky.
 

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Make sure you clean the old thread locker off the bolts and bolt holes.the use locktite when putting everything back together 8) recon
 

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Where did you get your lokka locker from. 8) recon
 

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Interesting you removed the brakes from the truck.. I didn't do this on mine - saves a bit of work.
 

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:D pics of my 10 and 12 bolt diffs with my aussie lockers 8) recon

rear aussie locker



front aussie locker i recently installed.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
completed the thread
 

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foytiX said:
completed the thread
:D :D :D now time for a front aussie locker lol 8) recon
 

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Ruination said:
Interesting you removed the brakes from the truck.. I didn't do this on mine - saves a bit of work.
:D yeah installed new brake pads when i did my rear aussie locker lol 8) recon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ruination said:
Interesting you removed the brakes from the truck.. I didn't do this on mine - saves a bit of work.
I went by the book on removing the axles, but as long as you can get to the drive flange nuts you could leave them on. Each axle only has to pull out a couple of inches.

Recon....I'm seriously considering it ;)
 

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When I installed my LSD last year, I left the brakes on and pulled it out as far as it would go. I had to remove the E-brake brackets that attach to the trailing link. Both 10mm bolts sheared off with the slightest effort .

Outstanding pictorial. Add my name to the list of people who'd love to see a front 10-bolt install pictorial. Are they even available any more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They sure are http://lokka.com/site/, and I'm seriously considering it. If I do, I'm sure I'll do another write up. It will probably end up twice as long though, it's a more involved job for sure :D
 

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Tatohead said:
When I installed my LSD last year, I left the brakes on and pulled it out as far as it would go. I had to remove the E-brake brackets that attach to the trailing link. Both 10mm bolts sheared off with the slightest effort .

Outstanding pictorial. Add my name to the list of people who'd love to see a front 10-bolt install pictorial. Are they even available any more?
yes the aussie/lokka 10 bolt is available from indy4x and lokka.i took tons of pictures on my front aussie and diff/drop.just did not post many of them
for a certain reason lol 8) recon
 

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Getting ready to install mine! Great post.
 
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