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It's on the back of the intake manifold near the firewall. Sucks to get to. The best thing to do is remove the bolts that hold the tail shaft of the transmission, and jack up the transmission. That will tilt the engine forward far enough to be able to get right to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OMG!
Your ishing me!?
What a PITA to replace!
No way of doing it from ontop?
From the top looks like Ill have to remove the intake mani to do this change of the $8.99 part.
Isuzu's, I love em but this location of the CTS is a total design flaw, LOL.
 

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Sorry Tuner, but you see it right there in the pic from Bendorfold. You will be doing it from the top though, once you get the tranny and engine jacked up enough. not as bad as it sounds though. I was very reluctant to unbolt the tranny, but it wasn't bad. you're gonna have to remove about 2 skidplates, I think.
 

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so you might as well replace the coolant sensor that feeds the temp gauge while you are at it.

give us the blow by blow, will you, when you do it.

//bc
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so since I dont have a manual for this vehicle ......... yet, LOL.
Let me get this straight.

Remove skid plates
Unbolt the 2 top bolts that connect the MT tranny to the engine block.
Do this while supporting the tranny with a jack from underneath.
Once the 2 bolts are out , slowly jack up the tranny which will tilt the engine towards the front of the vehicle.
This should give me enough clearence to get at the CTS?
Are there any other items that need to be removed to do this tilt of the engine ?
Or is it really this straight forward?
Thanx
 

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tuner-automotive said:
Ok so since I dont have a manual for this vehicle ......... yet, LOL.
Let me get this straight.

Remove skid plates
Unbolt the 2 top bolts that connect the MT tranny to the engine block.

STOP THE TWO BOLTS YOU WAN T TO REMOVE ARE THE TRANS MISSION MOUNT BOLTS , OR NUTS IN THIS CASE AND THEN PUT THE JACK UNDER THE TRANS AND JACK THE TRANS UP ABOUT 2-3 INCHES AND THAT WILL TILT THE ENG FORWARD AND YOU CAN REACH RIGHT OVER THE TOP AT THE REAR. TAKING OUT THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS WONT DO ANYTHING BUT FRUSTRATE YOU JERRY

Do this while supporting the tranny with a jack from underneath.
Once the 2 bolts are out , slowly jack up the tranny which will tilt the engine towards the front of the vehicle.
This should give me enough clearence to get at the CTS?
Are there any other items that need to be removed to do this tilt of the engine ?
Or is it really this straight forward?
Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanx Jerry.
So the trans and the engine are going to remain intact together but Im just removing the 2 nuts that attach the tranny to the frame?
When I lift it 2-3 inches , its not going to cause strain on the CV or driveline?
 

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Sorry if I wasn't clear, Tuner. Yes, the engine and tranny stay intact together, just do it per Jerry's instructions. It was he that told me how to do mine. It won't hurt or strain anything, it's not that much movement, but it will let you get at that sensor.
 

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JLEMOND said:
STOP THE TWO BOLTS YOU WAN T TO REMOVE ARE THE TRANS MISSION MOUNT BOLTS , OR NUTS IN THIS CASE AND THEN PUT THE JACK UNDER THE TRANS AND JACK THE TRANS UP ABOUT 2-3 INCHES AND THAT WILL TILT THE ENG FORWARD AND YOU CAN REACH RIGHT OVER THE TOP AT THE REAR. TAKING OUT THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS WONT DO ANYTHING BUT FRUSTRATE YOU JERRY
okay, so i've been thinking of doing this very thing for the heater core hoses and the CTS and temp gauge sender.

i'm concerned about the strain on the engine mounts when i jack up the rear of the trans. what happens to the engine mounts doing this? or would it be better to undo the motor mounts too?

and just to check, this trick will work also to get the heater hoses on when replacing the heater core? there's zilch room between the firewall and the engine. or do i have to do something else also?

thank you sir

good luck tuner...

//bc
 

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trooperbc said:
JLEMOND said:
STOP THE TWO BOLTS YOU WAN T TO REMOVE ARE THE TRANS MISSION MOUNT BOLTS , OR NUTS IN THIS CASE AND THEN PUT THE JACK UNDER THE TRANS AND JACK THE TRANS UP ABOUT 2-3 INCHES AND THAT WILL TILT THE ENG FORWARD AND YOU CAN REACH RIGHT OVER THE TOP AT THE REAR. TAKING OUT THE BELLHOUSING BOLTS WONT DO ANYTHING BUT FRUSTRATE YOU JERRY
okay, so i've been thinking of doing this very thing for the heater core hoses and the CTS and temp gauge sender.

i'm concerned about the strain on the engine mounts when i jack up the rear of the trans. what happens to the engine mounts doing this? or would it be better to undo the motor mounts too?

and just to check, this trick will work also to get the heater hoses on when replacing the heater core? there's zilch room between the firewall and the engine. or do i have to do something else also?

thank you sir

good luck tuner...

//bc
IT WONT HURT THE ENG MTS AT ALL , THEY DONT MOVE AS FAR AS THEY APPEAR TO, THEY ARE PRETTY FLEXIABLE ANYWAY , THIS IS ALLSO A GOOD TIME TO CHECK THE REAR TRANNY MOUNT TO SEE IF IT HAS COLLASPED ANY THEY ARE NOTORIOUS FOR SETTLING AND CAUSING A VIBRATION, ANYTHIGN OVER 100.000 MI JUSTA BOTU BET THE MOUNT IS EITHER RESTING ON ITS FRAME OR JUST ABOUT TO , JERRY
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is the Idle air stabilizer (ISV) back behind here aswell?
If so I should consider doing the following......
Replace CTS , Temp gauge sending switch , and cleaning the ISV.
Do these sound correct?
 

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tuner-automotive said:
Is the Idle air stabilizer (ISV) back behind here aswell?
If so I should consider doing the following......
Replace CTS , Temp gauge sending switch , and cleaning the ISV.
Do these sound correct?
THE TROOPERS DO NOT USE AN IDEL AIR VLV, THEY HAVE AN IDEL AIR CONTROL , MOUNTED ON THE THROTTLE BODY , THAT IS LIKE A SMALL MOTOR THAT IS CONTROLLED BY THE ECM. JERRY
 

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tuner-automotive said:
Is the Idle air stabilizer (ISV) back behind here aswell?
If so I should consider doing the following......
Replace CTS , Temp gauge sending switch , and cleaning the ISV.
Do these sound correct?
THE TROOPERS DO NOT USE AN IDEL AIR VLV, THEY HAVE AN IDEL AIR CONTROL , MOUNTED ON THE THROTTLE BODY , THAT IS LIKE A SMALL MOTOR THAT IS CONTROLLED BY THE ECM. JERRY
 

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JLEMOND said:
...IT WONT HURT THE ENG MTS AT ALL , .... THIS IS ALLSO A GOOD TIME TO CHECK THE REAR TRANNY MOUNT TO SEE IF IT HAS COLLASPED.... JERRY
okay, great ,thanks.

AND ... will this trick work to give enough clearance to remove and install the heater core hoses when replacing the heater core? or do i need to do something else for that?

AND ... like tuner... says, anything else to do on the engine while the engine is tilted?

thanks again (and again)

//bc
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
God damn , finally done!
I will say it is easy but its a bitch at the same time.
You will only get enough room between to the firewall and engine by about 2.5-3" so if you have big hands your screwed.
And you will barely be able to see the CTS and get your hand down there.
be careful not to cross thread aswell as its a bitch getting down in there.
And you best have alot of extensions.

2.5 hr job for me and I have all the tools and the background doing mechanic work.

Bottom line .........
Its done.
 
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