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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
gunna lift my truck today i gota go buy the steel to make the shackles but for 3in lift if im right would be a 16" shackle.....that seems like a bit much to me..and for the fro im gunna crank the t bars and flip the ball joints and see about getting my 33s mounted and next month do a 3in body lift and see what happens any advice befori begin??
 

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make them 3 1/4 longer than stock(hole to hole) make sure to brace them or they will bend and be getto...not to mention the rear will sway ...this should give about 1 1/2 of lift
 

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i_iz_stuck said:
gunna lift my truck today i gota go buy the steel to make the shackles but for 3in lift if im right would be a 16" shackle.....that seems like a bit much to me..and for the fro im gunna crank the t bars and flip the ball joints and see about getting my 33s mounted and next month do a 3in body lift and see what happens any advice befori begin??
Just stop before you hurt yourself or god forbid someone else on the road...
 

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16 inches is way too much. I made mine to be a 1.75 inch lift and used 1/2 inch thick by one and a half inches thick to do it so 3.5 inches longer than stock. I wouldnt go above that in a shackle. If you want that much lift do an add a leaf and shackle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't worry guys I'm not a retard lol i didn't make 16" shackels there like 8 hole to hole...stock was 5in so I this safe?? They are braces to he'll and back lol they are same thickness as stock just longer with alot of bracing
 

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My shackles are like 11.5 inches hole to hole or somethig like that. I just know they are about 2.5 inhes of lift. They were on the truck when I got it and have held up fine to all my abuse and they aren't even braced. I'm not saying this is the best thing to do but they have worked fine for me.
 

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i_iz_stuck said:
Don't worry guys I'm not a retard lol i didn't make 16" shackels there like 8 hole to hole...stock was 5in so I this safe?? They are braces to he'll and back lol they are same thickness as stock just longer with alot of bracing
you should be good,if you go alot more it can rotate the pinion up to far and you could get vibration problems from ujoints not on same angle....continue :mrgreen:
 

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i_iz_stuck said:
Don't worry guys I'm not a retard lol i didn't make 16" shackels there like 8 hole to hole...stock was 5in so I this safe?? They are braces to he'll and back lol they are same thickness as stock just longer with alot of bracing
:lol: Had me scared for a second. 8in hole to hole is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awsome thanx guys but I did discover that I need new bushings for the leafs the rear seems to clunk when I hit a bump or somthing , I'm lifting the front today I'll try to get pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also does anyone else with the 3" t bar crank have a ride like a tank on steel blocks lol?? I only set mine at 2" higher and it feels like jackhammer
 

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It will if your shock is fully extended or the bump stops are mushed. Was it lifted at all when you got it.????
 

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i_iz_stuck said:
Also does anyone else with the 3" t bar crank have a ride like a tank on steel blocks lol?? I only set mine at 2" higher and it feels like jackhammer
I've driven several thousand miles in a M1A1 and it rides 10000X better than our Isuzu's....just saying :mrgreen:

And as was said make sure shocks and bumpstops are not limiting factors
 

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You hit the bump stops, don't take much lift before they become an issue...shocks follow real close behind. Low-pro bump stops can be had from indy4x4 or autozone...and if autozone can get them... then oriely's, checker, napa, car-quest, pep-boys and the like should be able to get'em too. On my truck bump stops came into play at 1&1/2 inches...I spect the shocks will be come into play at 2 to 3 inches. Shocks may already be an issue tho...I'm at a catch 22 right now, I hate riding on the bump-stops, but I have to for the time being(close to two months now) So I'm not real sure on when the shocks actually become limiting. May already be an issue, but since the bump-stops are still on I don't know for sure. I know on the newer troopers the shocks are the bigger limiting factor....

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... id=2877938
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You guys are my Heros lol I'll check the bump stops an I bought some shock extenders to put on also..... Looks like a big screw that you put onto of the shock and that has a threaded end that you bold the shock mount to... Very odd seems like a good way to avoid buying the wrong shcoks lol I'll keep y'all posted on the bumpstops
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hhhmmm point taken lol I did wonder if that could happen...... Maybe price of steel tubing around it will give sone support and avoid that?????,?,?,?,? Not sure but may as well try if it fails I can buy new shocks without my wife killing me lmao

Also I did shave the bumpstops down on my bench grinder and now she rides like a champ rear is a bit springy but I think it's due to the shocks being to far out of there range to work
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I agree lol sssoooooo new shocks it is lol so far truck rides good. Boggs down in sand alot ezer now.... Lot of axle bounce I'm guessing is due to the shocks
 

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If you move the stock shock down via the extension you will bottom it out before you hit your bump stops or just for flexing purposes. Kind of a loosing battle. I thought they sold a little longer travel shock for up front ???? Don't they??
 
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