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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple of questions for you all:

I just lifted the rear of my Rodeo about 2 inches. Tonight I will be cranking the tBars for the front. Can anyone clarify for me whether it is necessary to flip the balljoints or not? If I need to do it, can anyone supply any instructions?

Next step will be removal of the mud flaps and runningboards to put on bigger tires. Any opinions on fitting 265 75 R16 AT's or larger?

Thanks in Advance,

Nathan
 

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I just lifted the rear of my Rodeo about 2 inches.

Can anyone clarify for me whether it is necessary to flip the balljoints or not?
I will say no, the whole reason to flip the balljoints is to be able to get the front end aligned. With only two inches of lift you should be fine without the ball joint flip.

If you want to flip them, it's pretty easy. They attach to the top of the a-arm typically, when you flip them you take everything loose and put the balljoint on the bottom of the a-arm. It's pretty easy.

Joe
 

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i have my rodeo lifted about 2 inches and planning on another inch. i am going to flip them then though. you will be ok unless you go higher. but its not that big of a deal to do.
 

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i'm running, essencially 2" of lift..(maybe a little less, not sure exactly... didn't measure before hand).......... I used the same methof rodeoholic used...

cheap shackles on the back, (will upgrade to new bushings and heavier duty hardware soon)... and a relativally easy tortion crank up front, (about 10-12 turns seems to match up good)....

I am running 265/75-16s.... you can see the pictures in the link in my signature.

they seem to fit real well. (it's close, but haven't rubbed em yet).

about the ball joint flip..... READ THIS.....
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=4553

the experience i am in the middle of at this time of posting is driving me nuts. the ball joint flip, seems to be causing a lot more agrivation that it may be worth.

the "how-to" article here at planetisuzu describes this proceedure, as much easier than it has turned out for me... I should also mention, the 12mm bolt/nuts they mentioned should be "easy" to get off, I used 3 foot of cheeter bar to break loose, and they "POPPED" HARD!. really depends how long it's been since these have been popped.

i've already started, and the problem is already laying there in my face... now noticed my upper ball joint is ripped open. might have to disassemble and start over on this side, with yet another side to tackle.

I guess, I was trying to get the longest list of easy mods done as fast as possible to gain the best trail capability for little money. But i'm running into issues on a limited budget, going to be swiping the credit card to get the new ball joints and brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I cranked the torsion bars for about 2 inches of lift in the front to match the two gained by cheap shackle add ons in the back. The bolts turned without needing to break them loose (must be from the massive oil leak I used to have keeping everything from corroding). My arms/shoulders are real sore though.

I think I will leave the ball joints as is unless I can find a good reason to flip them or I lift it some more. I just want to put on the bigger tires.

These cheap shackles from autozone have some tiny bolts I dont think I would feel comfortable driving it until I replace them or engineer something else to keep them from moving around in the bushings.

Still waiting on my new bushings and skidderz form Darlington Offroad. Its been a month now. Hopefully they come soon so I can get everything done finally.

Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.

Nathan
 

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when i get the money, i am going to get some shackles from matt. they look a lot better than whats on there now. then getting the spring upgrade from joe. possibly some skidderz also. but that might be next summer. unless i a massive raise :lol:
 

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once I finally got the ball joint flip done on one side, the other side went MUCH more smoothly.. so i guess, with some carefull planning, it isn't that difficult... is just easier to go into when you've done it already.....

I tried drilling out the cheapo shackles to put a bigger bolt in.. (going to go up to 9/16 grade 8 )...

I think you would need a very nice bit, water cooling, and a drill press to be successfull... I took more metal off the bit than i took off the shackle- those "cheapos" must be made of some really hard metal. unfortunatally, i'll be stuck running the bolts that come with it for this weekends getaway, hopefully nothing goes wrong...

I had it apart today, and had the chance to inspect the bolts after they have been in there for about 2 weeks, doesn't seem to be any signs of bending or anything..

have to remember, the force on bolts in a shackle situation is shear force, and I believe the bolts supplied with the "kits" at autozone are grade 8, 7/16"(i think they have to be to be intended for use in such a condition)... which would equate to aproximatally 13,500lbs of shear strength before failure....

so- way I see it, the back of these things are relativally light. (of the ~4000lbs vehicle weight+ gear/people/gas etc, say 4500lbs on average, we are almost garanteed that less than 2000lbs of this weight is on the back of the vehicle. so lets assume 2000lbs in the back in a heavy load senario.. distributed to 2 wheels 1000lbs per wheel, then again, distributed to the front and the back of the leaf, 500lbs on the shackle, then distrubuted AGAIN, to eithor portion of the bolt as 2 separate shear-pressure-points, 250lbs is all a single portion of the bolt holds up in shear-force when the vehicle is sitting still.

Now of cource, you run into dynamic loads from momentum that can cause temporary spikes in this demand, but with only 250lbs on the supplied hardware, 13,500lbs of shear strength should be more than enough in most situations.

(if you have seen the ford commercial where they put a bolt through a pair of eyelets and fasten it down, then lift the truck by the strength of the bolt, then a guy stands under the truck, you get an idea how tough little bolts can really be... the truth is, you could probably hang 3 rodeos from one of those shackle bolts)
 

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The problem isn't necessarily that the bolts aren't strong enough, its that they aren't the right size. They are bouncing around inside your spring bushings. Basically, it will ride a little jerkier, sway slightly more and will slowly wear down your bushings. I had em in there for a couple months though with no ill effects. I would just recommend that you change them out when you can.
________
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can feel them bouncing around and when I hit a good bump I can hear them bang. Once I get my new bushings from Joe I wil go to Ace and find a cheap solution (trying to avoid drilling).
 

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ok, back to the subject of the upper ball joint flip...

now that i have done it, and been out driving on it at highway speeds and on speed bumps, and been able to compare the unflipped to the flipped senario- I would have to say that, it was WELL worth the effort to flip them, even with a small lift.

front suspension doesn't "drop" to the limit when hitting speed bumps anymore.

bump steer drastically reduced on the highway- very important for safety.

tire wear issues after lift- eliminated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll have to think about the ball joint flip. Maybe I will do it after all. So you just turn them around 180' degrees?

I got new 265 75 r16 tires put on last night. Really riding high now!
 

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actually- the term "flip" is misleading... it should be called a ball-joint mounting relocation.

the ball joint stays on the same axis- you don't actually "flip" it... what gets "flipped" is what side of the upper-control-arm the flange rests on...

stock, the ball joint is installed with the flange above the control arm, (dropped down into the hole), the *flip* is the proceedure in which you remount it installed from the under side of the control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did the ball joint flip last night. Was pretty easy actually although I succeeded in splitting my CV boots on both sides. Although the inners were already split.

It rides much better now.

Can anyone tell me if the Halfaxles on each side of a 96 Rodeo are the same part? I have a new one for the passenger side and am wondering if I can replace this and rebuild the one on the passenger side and put it on the drivers side ending up with a spare. Also, is there anyway to change them out without dropping the front axle?
 

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Can anyone tell me if the Halfaxles on each side of a 96 Rodeo are the same part? I have a new one for the passenger side and am wondering if I can replace this and rebuild the one on the passenger side and put it on the drivers side ending up with a spare. Also, is there anyway to change them out without dropping the front axle?
I'm not positive on this, but I beleive that the 96-97 Rodeo went to un-equal length outer CV shafts. So you would not be ablt to swap from one side to the other. You probably won't be able to use the half shafts from an earlier model either. You can get re-manufacrured CV axles for about $100 each. The easiest way is to just replace the outer shaft with the new one, and put new boots on. Otherwise you have to drop the axle housing to pull the whole axles.

HIH,
Andre
 
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