I just finished up mine... (need to do some adjustments to torsion bars up from to ride same as back)... but it's basically done..
here's some pointers....
have lots of tools.... here's some of the less obvious that may not be part of every average garage..
1. air tools (impact wrench and ratchet)..(not neccessary but oh so lovely)
2. ~1.25" socket and wrench (for rear shackle bolts)
3. ~1.125" socket for torsion bar adjuster
4. ~7/8" deepwell socket for U-bolts
5. a resiprocating saw with metal blade (for removing old shocks)
6. a good grinding wheel, (used a 15Amp makita with 7 inch multi-disk), for grinding down the bushings to fit right, and cutting off the very long spring pack bolts.
7. A mapp gas torch(or better)- to heat up random parts that won't come loose.. and to litterally burn out the bushing from the front of the leaf springs. (light em on fire, and the old eyelet pops out, have water on hand in case things get out of control), use to copmletally burn out the old bushing, having a scraping tool handy to peel away burning off rubber layers.
8. Some C-clamps, large ones... for compressing the leaf pack if needed, and for pressing bushings into place...(and some blocks of wood)
there's probably more oddballs I have forgotten.. some issues I ran into with the indy kit....
one of the balljoint spacers was not drilled to line up with the holes in my A-arm/balljoint... had to drill out 2 of the holes larger to make it fit into place..
The bushings for the front of the rear leaf were way to big, had to remove some material with grinder.
The U-bolts did not line up with the bottom plate holes, had to be "spread" farther apart to line up.. (using two long hollow poles, this was easy, just put the poles over the bolts of the U-bolt, and separate to bend outwards)
as long as you are in there, replacing the upper/lower ball joints and the CV boots isn't a bad idea. with the tension off the torsion bar, removing the hub and pounding out the lower ball joint isn't that hard... just keep the tension there to pop the upper ball joint loose (by pounding the spindal) then loosen the torsion bars. (then the rest)
as far as indexing tosion bars goes... I was able to index them several "notches" "tighter" than the stock ones, and still had plenty of thread on the bolt to go though the "half moon" before it started to produce pressure... by doing this, you ensure you can get the full 3 inches, without having to do it again, and, you won't have to "crank" it as far to achieve the lift..
hopefully this will help... I probably left somethign out.... throw me a PM if you are having troubles, (or call/email indy 4x)....
One question...when installing is it easier/better to do my frontend ie. balljoint flip and torsion bar adjustment before lifting the rear or the rear first? I just wonder cause obviously when I've done one end the angle is going to be considerbly off on the other.
