[jim10_01]

Hey guys I need a little help. I just lifted my 1990 Bighorn (Trooper) with a set of 6" shackels for the rear and a torsion bar crank for the front. The problem is I did the ball joint flip and cranked both torsion adjustment bolts about 20 turns (I think that was a bit much but I was desperate) and the wheels still sit like this //-\\. Is this caused by weak torsion bars or did I do something wrong? I want to get it as close to right on as I can get by eyeballing it as an alignment in Japan costs around $250.00. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jim

 

[bigpoppax2]

You need an alignment.

 

[Tad]

You can get it close yourself, but if you care about tire wear, you need an alignment.

The pivots that the upper control arms attach to are bolted to the frame with two bolts. You can *loosen* those two bolts and remove some shims from between the pivot and the frame. You can't see the shims, but they are behind the tab on the frame (behind the two bolt heads.) If you remove all of the shims and you still can't get it there, you either need to try to move the upper ball joint further out on the upper-a-arm, which probably won't give you much change, add spacers between the ball joint and the a-arm, or crank the torsion bars down some.

-Tad

 

[elhombre2003]

yeah dude i think you need an alignment.

 

[Celestine]

20 times? isn't it bit much? how much can you turn torsionbar before breaking it?

 

[rodeo guy]

You can't break a torsion bar by turning it too much. It will just stop turning. Its about 4 turns to get an inch of lift, so 20 turns would be 5 inches. On his trooper he probably has about an inch left before he hits the bumpstop. I would recommend trimming that bumpstop or getting a low profile one, and decranking at least half an inch. And getting an alignment.
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