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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car started knocking loud the other day so I replaced my timing belt spark plugs and wires. The knock isn't as loud but is still there. My oil pressure at start up is about 50 then it drops to almost nothing at idle. A couple of questions, what is the proper oil pressure and two how hard should it be to push in the tensioner. The manual says to put it in a vise but I was able to push it against the wall to pin it in. Also when I reinstalled it the pin pulled real easy and the pulley didn't seem to move at all. Do I need to pull it all back apart and replace the tensioner? Could this be the knock? Thanks

95 Rodeo 3.2L
 

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phishhead said:
Do I need to pull it all back apart and replace the tensioner? Could this be the knock? Thanks
95 Rodeo 3.2L
yes . . . and yes.

always replace tensioner when you do the belt, especially if its knocking. that's what's causing the knock. if you didn't know that when you started, your tests on the tensioner's tension should have convinced you. :idea:

the knock isn't as loud because probably the belt is new and a bit tighter. you want to get the new tensioner in there as soon as possible, so you don't screw up that pretty new belt.

BTW, you might want to consider replacing the water pump when you go back in there. It's usually recommended when you do the timing belt, because it sits in there behind the belt, and most of the labor time is already 'charged' to the belt procedure.

the oil pressure issue wouldn't have anything to do with the timing belt, tensioner, plugs or wires.

the oil pressure at cold will be high. . . and it will come way down at idle after warm up. . . but not necessarily "almost nothing"; depends what you mean by that. if you do actually have an oil-pressure issue, you may want to get that figured out before doing this other stuff.

HTH
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The oil pressure at idle is about 7-10 lbs. Thanks for your help. I will put the new tensioner in tomorrow. The water pump will have to wait though, most of my money in going to a wedding in Vegas at the end of the month.
 

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The oil pressure on my 94 Trooper sits at almost "0" on the gauge at hot idle. The two things that you really need to watch for are: 1) the oil pressure light coming on at any time. That's really bad. 2) not having 10psi per 1000rpm of oil pressure while driving. That means 20psi or more at 2000rpm. 30psi or more at 3000rpm.

-Tad
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it replaced and it works great. Thanks for your help. One thing I found that made the job easierr was a v-belt strap wrench I found at harbor freight. It held the balancer while I took out the bolt and put it back in with no problem. For $9 it saved a lot of trouble. Thanks again.

Phil
 

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Tad said:
. . .having 10psi per 1000rpm of oil pressure while driving. That means 20psi or more at 2000rpm. 30psi or more at 3000rpm.

-Tad
that sure is a simple way to keep tabs on the oil pressure. :idea:

Tad, is that some kind of general rule of thumb, or is it specific to isuzu v-6's ?

and, what's it based on? i mean, is there an oil pressure curve that you can share?

thanks.
 

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just a little info to help out anyone noticing "little or no oil pressure reading at idle"...

these little oil pressure gauges are often not sensative enough to register the correct pressure when the enguine is at operating temp and idle... The recomended oil for these enguines is generally a 5W30-- if this is what you are running, you can expect to see very little or no pressure rating at idle because thin oils like this flow very freely and generate little pressure... If you are running a synthetic or "blend,".. you will notice even lower overall pressure readins because synthetics tend to flow easier, (they are thinner)...

I have a very old 3.2V6- (over 170K)... this summer I am running 20W50 to try to quite down some of the ticking... With this heavier oil, I have noticed an increase in overall oil pressure. (because the oil is harder to pump, resulting in higher pressure as it flows) At idle, it sits around 15psi- whereas- when I ran synthetic oils with 5W and 10W ratings in previous oil changes, my oil pressure gauge often read near 0 at idle speed.

conclusion: hot, lite oils, with low "W" ratings, especially synthetics, will appear to generate lower oil pressure- rest assured- the enguine protection is still excellent because the oil is actually flowing at a higher rate with less restriction.
 
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