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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While not at all new to forums, I AM fer sher a NEWB here and would like to ask the ISUZI brain trust a few Q's if I could??

I'll try to be informative yet not too long winded so PLEASE bare W/Me...

I bought my Son a 95 ISUZU RODEO as his very first car/suv..
Nuthin fancy, she has the 3.2L V-6 and 5-Speed trans. Mileage is at 156K and she runs great.. I know I will need a cluctch soon but I'm OK W/that, rather he learn on the old clutch rather the the new.. :p

Everything seems to work with the exception (and an important one) of the TEMP GAUGE? I also have the BRAKE light on the dash and the R/ABS light lit all the time... Any helpful tips on these items would be VERY much appreciated.. I "think" the TEMP sending unit is midle rear of the engine but I can't seem to lcate it fer certain.. Is this a common prob. W/these engines, could t be as simple as a fuse or should I just change out the sending unit?
The BRAKE light as well as the R/ABS has me a bit perplexed and I wonder "IF" the brake light may just be a stuck switch at the E/BRAKE ?

Did an oil change (plus LUCAS additive), A/F, and will do the S/plugs this weekend. While they look like they are burning fine but they are Campion
plugs which I hate so I'll switch them to NGKs'.. AC blows nice and cold, suspension and driveline seem to be fine, engine purrs like a kitten although I don't know IF/WHEN the timing belt/chain was changed? Wonder if this is something I should do right away?

TIA for any and all info you could share, I'll post up a couple PICS as soon as I can....
 

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The temp gauge sending unit is probably of the simple varitey with a single wire connector. How to test:
1. Remove wire from sending unit.
2. With key in on position, ground the wire to a good/known ground (engine block, etc).
3. If the temp gauge needle pegs to hot, the gauge and wire circuit are good and sending unit bad (90% of the time).
4. If no action at gauge and you know you are getting good ground, the gauge or somewhere in the circuit is bad. Could be broken wire, corrosion, loose connector, etc. Normally, if no action at gauge, it's the gauge itself.
5. Turn key off upon concluding test.

Nice weapon. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx for the reply Shooter, yea the FAL is an awesome rifle fer sher..
I'm pretty smitten by them and have been for a number of years, there is a few in the fold... :wink:

OK, I was hoping that would be the test for the sending unit I'll check that tomorrow if the rain holds off long enough.. Seems we have yet another Tropical Depression (#16 I think) we need to keep an eye on and it's supposed to bring a LOT of rain....

I also did some more searching through past threads and may have found a possible cause for the R/ABS light staying on so I'll check that as well.. I think a poster named "BUSTER" noted the routing of the wires from the rear brakes have been problimatic so at least I have a place to look..

Thanx again...
 

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the brake light can also mean the fluid in the brake resviour(sp?) where the brake fluid is held can be low setting off the light ,
the rwabs (rear wheel anti lock brake system) usualy comes on if there is a problem with the system it self it might be the sensor in the rear axle is blocked somehow or disconnected
 

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Keep us posted. Almost forgot my manners. Welcome to the forum. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ghost said:
the brake light can also mean the fluid in the brake resviour(sp?) where the brake fluid is held can be low setting off the light ,
the rwabs (rear wheel anti lock brake system) usualy comes on if there is a problem with the system it self it might be the sensor in the rear axle is blocked somehow or disconnected
Ghost I'll be sure to recheck the brake res, think it's GTG but I'll make sure.... Will check the sensor in the rear as well...
Thanx for the tips...

shooter said:
Keep us posted. Almost forgot my manners. Welcome to the forum. :)
Will be sure to do so, prolly have more Q's as well..
Thank you for the Welcome, it is appreciated...
 

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if the fluid has the float indicator lt looks like a disk floating on top of the brake fluid push it down all the way to the bottom and see if it comes back up if not that might be the problem
 

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Hey man, good to see you over here, these guys will help you out, it's a great board.

(I was the guy at the FALfiles that suggested he come over here...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
BigSwede said:
Hey man, good to see you over here, these guys will help you out, it's a great board.

(I was the guy at the FALfiles that suggested he come over here...)
I appreciate the heads up and the invite BigSwede..
The FAL FILES is pretty much my Home and I'm glad to know I can ask for help here.. Lurked a bit before registering and it does indeed seem to be a great board..

No chance to do much of anything today but I will check a few things out ASAP...
 

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timing belt would be a good thing to do when you change out the spark plugs. hit it all with one shot and change the tensioner also. those are a problem on these engines also
 

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FNFAL308 said:
Ghost I'll be sure to recheck the brake res, think it's GTG but I'll make sure.... Will check the sensor in the rear as well...
Thanx for the tips...
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Typically if the rABS light comes on and stays on when you turn the truck on its a bad wire/connection... which are pretty common.

If the light comes on when you turn the truck on, then goes out, and comes back on when you start rolling, then you have a bad sensor. (altho Im not sure that this applies to a rear-only system)
 

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As far as the brakes light on the dash goes. The level in it goes down as the brake pads wear and mine turns on when the pads need replacing. Pop off the tire and check them out.

Joel :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Need to bump this back up Gents....

The Little truck has been running very well, I still need to do some things from my original post but should be able to get to those soon with the weather cooling off and me with some free time from work..

Anyway we are having a strange issue and I'm hopefull you can help..
As mentioned the truck has been running really well, in fact it still does with the exception of the times it won't take any throttle??

Seems like if you roll into the gas and drive kina like your Grandma there is no prob at all..
However when you drive it normaly or try to push it she falls on her face about 3 grand.. There is NO MISS, NO POP, NO BACKFIRE, in fact there is little telltale sign of things I'm used to listening/looking for except she won't go?? Cruising down the road all is well but push her a bit and she stumbles.

My First thought was the CAT, but I figure the CAT if blocked is ALWAYS blocked so it would seem to me the prob would be constant?

Right now I'm leaning towards a fuel prob., "maybe" the Pump although the Guy we bought the truck from said he just did the pump?? Maybe the F/F which would be the easiest place to start I imagine..

Oh and BTW, I "THINK" my Temp sensor is at the BACK of the Motor, between the cyl, and UNDER the Intake plenum.. Gues I need to remove the entire intake to even see the damn thing let alone test or replace.. Flat rate book sez two hours so I figure it can't be that bad...

I'm also having a batt drain when she sits for a few days.. Trying to find the draw is becoming a PITA but I'm not giving up...

TIA for any and all replies and assistance...
 

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For the stumbling, start with the fuel filter. They can clog quickly especially on a used truck that you dont know how clean the tank is, and/or with cheap gas. Also cleaning the throttle body and egr would be good to do as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Little updated info to share and hoping for some more input..

I pulled the F/F today and what came out was just plain nasty. Rusty looking mud seems to have filled the Inlet side of the F/F.. Of course finding this had me cautiously optomistic as changing the F/F is a 5 min job and pretty inexpensive..
Anyway I head straight to the A-Parts store and grab a NEW F/F as well as a new set of plugs which I v'e been wanting to do anyway..
Get home and pull the Plugs and find out they are all Champions (which I HATE) and several of them have the gap seriously jacked.. I install a fresh set of BOSCH plugs after checking all the gaps also using never-sieze on the threads and dielectric grease on all the plug, & and coil caps..

With everything buttoned up I take her for a spin and man she rips, for about 5-6 miles then starts the same ****t again. Admittedly not as bad but I noticed it right away.. Hmmm, sez I lets go get some more fuel and hit the A-parts store again for some SEAFOAM.. After we get the fuel again she is running like a CHAMP so we get the SEAFOAM added and all is well for another few miles and she starts up again.. I felt it hunting for fuel so I head to the house.. Pull the F/F again and cycle the F/PUMP about 8- times into a bottle.. Fuel is a bit hazy so now I am suspect of the Fuel Tank itself??...
Thinking I will pull the tank down and clean it out, wonder of the F/PUMP filter is gone, ripped, or just caked with the same **** that was in the Old filter.. Which BTW now that the fuel has avaporated resembles MUD..
"HOPING" I can get the tank cleaned and a new Sock on the pump this weekend if not sooner..

You gents think I'm on the right track here??
 

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Yes, cleaner is always better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wanted to share an update for anyone interested and just in case someone else has the same/similar symptoms..

Well after dropping the tank it would certainly seem as though I diagnosed the problem correctly..
Here are PICS showing part of what I pulled out of the tank....
Lots of Rust and trash in there fer sher....

The F/Pump pick-up screen is packed with rust dust, no wonder she was stumbling huh..


F/Pump holder/assy. is covered in rust..




Tank is now clean as I could get after many flushings with water, and Purple cleaner.. Drained all the water that remained then blew compressed air into the tank many times to make sure all was completly dry inside..
It aint perfect but it's 100% better..




F/Pump assy all sandblasted w/new pump and pick-up installed..


I had the tank RTG that same night but had to waite until yesterday to get everything back together.. My Son helped me with the tank install which was pretty cool. After adding freash fuel and SEAFOAM the little truck started right up and runs FANTASTIC.. I'm thrilled for the Kid cause I know he was worried.. My Son thinks Old Man kicks major azz...

Used this new Fuel Pump and Pick-up, OLD pump is still working fine so I'll save/sell it.. I wanted to make sure it ws as good as it could be since it's my Sons truck.. I was a bit thirsty after all that hard work..


NEXT project is the Valve Cover gaskets and TEMP sender.. Not really looking forward to that I must admit.. :p

Oh yea, forgot to add something I think is important...
The Little rubber thing that goes in between the BTM of the Pump and the Holder was to nasty to re-use.. No prob since the NEW Pump comes with one Right?? Not so fast, the one that came with the pump is wrong and not cut nor formed right to properly fit the holder.. Using a Chainsaw file, Drill, and a sharp Triangle file I modded the holder so the NEW rubber gizzy would fit.. Only took a few minutes and works perfectly.
 

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Holy crap, how did that get so rusty inside? I just did my fuel pump (or more accurately the pump bracket, still using the old pump) this summer, and after 17 years it looked fine inside, no rust at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
BigSwede said:
Holy crap, how did that get so rusty inside? I just did my fuel pump (or more accurately the pump bracket, still using the old pump) this summer, and after 17 years it looked fine inside, no rust at all.
Yea it was bad, what I "suspect" happened is either the previous owners never filled the truck up, & OR the Truck sat with little fuel in it allowing moisture/condensation to form leading to the rust..
My WAG is that the fresh fuel and driving of late allowed that crap to loosen and form the rusty/cloudy fuel eventually clogging the pick-up and F/F..
Could even be crapy fuel and a combo of the above I really can't say for sure.. I do know it's MUCH better now and should be GTG for the rest of the trucks life.. I will add some more SEAFOAM though as soon as we go fill her up as I only put a fresh 5 gal can in after the repairs...
 

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You can get a POR-15 tank repair kit and clean/seal the inside of the tank. Then you wouldnt have to worry about tank rust at all in the future. Usually once rust starts it will continue unless the tank is always kept full. I've used the smaller kit on a m'cycle tank and its amazing stuff.

Have you changed all the fluids yet? I'm wondering if it was in a flood and got lots of crappy water in the tank then sat a long time from the looks of the FP holder and all the crap that came out of there.
 
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