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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is off my 1999 Trooper. The one on the left is the inside cup from the passenger side, and the one on the right is the inside joint on the driver side. Are they supposed to be different, or did someone get lazy changing them in the past? I can't imagine they were that lazy since I think you have to drop the whole diff to change those inside cups right?

 

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To me those don't look like the cups. Those are the actual inboard joints. The one on the left looks absolutely roasted. The one on the right looks like it's about done, but still working. How bad were the boots? I would pay special attention to the passenger side cup and be looking for chunks of metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes they are the joints, the cups match each style though. Were they different styles from the factory like this?

The boots were totally fine. The outside joints were so bad that when I put it into 4wd, it would bind up while turning. This is on a $500 vehicle I bought and have been going through it replacing things. Here is where I'm at right now. It's kind of a bummer if each side is different, because then I can't just buy one spare axle to keep with me if I ever break one.

 

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The CV axles are the same on both sides. There are 2 ways you can order them, at least from Rock Auto. With the inboard housing or without the inboard housing. There should be no need to change the housings (cups) unless they are really beat up and scored. Clean them up well with degreaser and inspect. Hopefully you don't have to replace them. While you're doing all of this, you should search HD tie rods. Well worth the effort and not too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
HD rods are already installed, thanks. I still haven't had my question answered yet though. After the inside joints supposed to be different like this? The passenger side has three shafts, if you will, while the driver side has a race with six bearings.

It's been so long since I've done an axle that I just purchased the entire axles, not realizing that I'd have to drop the diff to replace entirely. The price difference was so small that I figured I'd just remove the inside boot ring, and only install what I needed. However, the driver side with the race and six bearings is different than the style I purchased. I bought from an Auto Zone, and they also had two styles to purchase. The picture provided of the other style looks like the race and bearings I need for the driver side. Apologize for not knowing all the proper terms, but the way.
 

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The answer to your question is no. They should be the same. The correct ones match the driver's side. At least that's what I put in my 2001. I cross referenced at RA, and they are the same part numbers for the 1999. I have no issues. I went with the Cardone 661349S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmmm, I wonder what happened then. I have two new axles now, and I could drop the diff to install them so they'd be the same, but they'd be the wrong style. I need to figure out what to do here. If I have to drop the whole diff, might as well do the diff drop mod. I was kind of trying to avoid doing all that work and just SAS'ing the dang thing later.

I suppose, if I'm going to lift the front, and go with at least 33's, then I might as well give the axles every chance they can get while I'm at it. If I do a diff drop, then maybe I can step up to 34's or 35's in the mean time. Ughhh, so much work and this pandemic shut down isn't helping on the income front at all.
 

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My guess is someone swapped in an entire axle shaft and never saw inside the boots or didn't care. If you pull the lower control arm you can drop the axle, remove the diff brackets and swap axles without ever taking the CV's apart. But both styles were used on these trucks. Not sure when they started using the Tripod style.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I could get one side out if I drop just the lower control arm? Unfortunately, I haven't sourced a repair manual for this vehicle yet and am working on just my minimal vehicle knowledge. Are there any PDF versions of the repair manuals floating around online?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hmmmm. Looks like either way I need to drop the diff and do everything the correct way. I'll grumble now, but I'm sure I'll be glad I did everything when I'm done. Time to start looking up diff drop threads...

I wasn't planning on starting a build thread for this Trooper, but if I'm going to ask a new question every week, maybe I should. I figured there are already a bunch of Trooper build threads done by people more capable than I am, all so long that I haven't even made a dent in them. Do we need another one? On the other hand, new posts breath life into the board. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Front axle removed. Is this axle cup something that would be easy to source? It feels like OEM axles are hard to come by and OEM remans are usually just the outside. If I get desperate I'm sure I could go to a junk yard, but man I don't think I'm up to trying to pull an axle myself in the dirt. I was already doing my whole front end so all my suspension was already removed anyway.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How do I remove the inner shafts from the brackets? I have the two snap rings removed but they are still hanging up. We're they pressed in? I have a press if that's what it takes, but don't want to try it until I know for sure.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I pressed one out and saw that I had just missed a snap ring. If anyone ever stumbles across this post, there are two small snap rings, and one large one, for three total. I've laid them out in the correct pattern. From the bracket toward the axle it goes, bracket->seal->small snap ring->bearing->large snap ring around slot in bearing->small snap ring. A press or hammer is not needed. After removing the inner most snap right and the large snap ring, you can pull the bearing off the shaft to reveal the second small snap ring. The bearing might need a little gentle coaxing and prying, but shouldn't need too much force if everything is in good shape.

 

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Looks good. Should be done in no time. The modified brackets are not too hard to make from your original ones. Just need to make some good marks and measurements. Get the zip cut out and cut out the bolt pattern and move it down, weld it up, and grind it smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, I'm getting there. Never welded that large of a gap before. Hope my penetration is okay. I'll feel a lot better once I weld the other side and fill the gaps with more steel.





 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Might as well post up more pictures while I'm at it. Need to grind everything down and paint it tomorrow. Might order a lokka for the front while I'm at it...






I looked up what it takes to do a diff drop on Toyotas and it made me sick. Just toss in a few spacers and some longer bolts. Takes like 20 minutes. At the same time, on the newer stuff, the spacers are only 1" tall and you only install them on one side, so you only lower the diff 1/2". Doesn't even seem worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The wheel chart has some gaps, but I feel like I might be able to stuff 35's under a second gen with a 2-2.5" suspension lift and .5-1" body lift. If I can, then a 2" lift up front with a 1.5" diff drop puts me in great shape. Then I can hold off doing a SAS for a while.
 

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You can but I would recommend the skinniest 35 you can get. My 33x10.50's would rub. With a lift it was ok but I still had to extend the rear bump stops. The front was ok even without a lift.
 
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