Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to propose that front differential removal be immediately declared "NO FUN"..... I have performed every type of R&I and R&R operation on a first gen Trooper and this hands down takes the cake. Do I have a second to this motion? After this declaration becomes law It will require a two thirds majority to have it overturned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,705 Posts
:lol: :lol: :lol: I'll second that one for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,977 Posts
Well post the cliff notes as I have to swap a locked third into Blackie!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
Piece of cake compared to replacing lower control arm bushings at home! Now that doesn't mean it's easy. just means that the bushing replacement really bites. :shock:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I vote yes!!!! I switched front ends last July in one weekend so I could sell our 91 and put the locker in the new 89 and I've been useless every since but then I was old and useless before so maybe that doesn't mean much. It is a [email protected]&%^ of job and if you do it by your self it is even harder. One trick that may help if you do work alone is use an engine crane with a nylon strap thru the fender well on one side and a floor jack under the 3rd member it helps to balance the axle. Oh and did I mention the 12 pack of beer. Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,615 Posts
How did you do it ??? The whole thing axles and all,or pop the top ball joints and unbolt and unplug the short side, worm it sideways and unbolt and unplug the long axle ??? I did it that way to weld up the spiders in mine. That was my approach to the pain in the butt-ox !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I pull every thing off (swaybar, shocks,tierods,cross member,drive shaft and right end of drag link) there really isn't anything that is not in the way. Then the upper ball joints and half shafts and 4 mount bolts and then drop it out. With the hoist I can balance the housing and slide it side to side once the ends are thru the control arms it's fairly easy to jack it into place and get the mount bolts in. Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,785 Posts
yea its a bear....

but changing the trans on a 1986 year model is very much in the same league :twisted:

ive yet to do it with out 2 people helping................
the only way it fits in is with a pry bar....and that's only part of the battle......
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The cliff's notes are "Remove everything".... I try, whenever performing any type of R&R, to remove the least amount possible in order to get the job done, I think most people probably subscribe to this approach. When it was all said and done the only thing left bolted was the control arms, and only because I couldn't get them out. So yes Squatch, you may be right...I bet control arm bushings suck as well. I wanted to remove the entire front end in one piece, but without being able to remove the lower control arms it's impossible, so I ended up sliding the whole assembly as far to the driver's side as I could, then unbolted and removed the passenger's side (short side) axle and removed it, then the rest dropped out. So far as '86 transmissions go I've never had a problem.... probably because I've only ever removed them :lol: Unfortunately, since I don't have anybody around to ask for help I do end up doing everything by myself. Occasionally I can get one of my daughters aged 11,7 & 5 to hold somethting for me. Or my 110 pound wife, whose usually pregnant...... :roll: My son will be 2 in a month and REALLY likes playing with tools, I'm anxiously awaiting the day he will be old enough to help me work on the Troopers, cut firewood, etc...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
outofrshell said:
I pull every thing off (swaybar, shocks,tierods,cross member,drive shaft and right end of drag link) there really isn't anything that is not in the way. Then the upper ball joints and half shafts and 4 mount bolts and then drop it out. With the hoist I can balance the housing and slide it side to side once the ends are thru the control arms it's fairly easy to jack it into place and get the mount bolts in. Dave
I absolutely could not get the axles out through the control arms, there was physically not enough room. I cranked the torsion bars all the way down until the lower control arm bottomed out against the frame and they still would not go. This was not the first time I've had to remove one of these and I went into it this time determined to pull it out in one piece no matter what it took..... Welll I failed again. The only way is to remove the lower control arms and that's a whole other mess in itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,073 Posts
********** said:
I absolutely could not get the axles out through the control arms, there was physically not enough room. I cranked the torsion bars all the way down until the lower control arm bottomed out against the frame and they still would not go. This was not the first time I've had to remove one of these and I went into it this time determined to pull it out in one piece no matter what it took..... Welll I failed again. The only way is to remove the lower control arms and that's a whole other mess in itself.
That's odd...I have even managed to get a diff drop bracket and CV out through the control arms. Wasn't easy, but I did it. Or I should say we did it - had a buddy helping me to manipulate the center section while I worked the bracket out through the control arms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
I learned a long time ago short cuts are usually long roads. I have for a long time suscribed to the remove everything approach. This is the way Japanese vehicles are designed to be serviced. Just like the timing belt. It's just plain easier to get the fan, shroud, radiator and such clear out of the way 1st. Because if you don't you can get the damper pulled so you end up spending 2 weeks trying to figure out why your truck doesn't run right because you timed it off a slipped damper instead of the proper timing marks on the block. It's also a perfect time to inspect the parts you removed and fix them too. Then you don't have to come back to the same stuff in 3 months because something else needs service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
I would have to disagree with OP

I would rather take a frontend out than to replace an auto tranny , especially working alone

I pulled the frontend out, replaced the spider gears,rebuilt the cv's and reinstalled all parts faster and with less cussing than replacing an auto trans

First cuss the driveshafts removal
cuss rusty exhaust
cuss when you take out the console crap to get to the top tcase bolt and to remove shifter
cuss when hands get smashed taking out tcase
cuss when crossmember bolts strip or nuts come loose
then cuss taking out the flex plate bolts thru the starter hole
take out bell housing bolts with tranny lowered(easy part if you have 4 feet of extensions :mrgreen: )
cuss when tranny comes out sideways drenching you with tranny fluid

and then you gotta replace it all and fix or replace broken bolts and then figure out how to cobble rusty exhaust back together

wow almost sounds like I really hate that...I do...thats why I havent bought an auto Isuzu in the last 3 we have bought
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,208 Posts
I would tend to agree as I was part of Tad's front end/rear end swap in a weekend. We took the 4.77'ed, and ARB'ed front end out of his old 94 Trooper, and the ARB'ed 12 bolt 4.77'ed rear out of the same truck and put them under his newer 2001 Trooper. We did also put the 2001 axle back under the 94 so it'd be a roller.

That's a lot of work to do in the driveway in an evening and a day.

BUT, I will have to agree with Squatch that the lower control arm bushing is worse. I ended up having to cut my lower control arm off my 88 Trooper and then burn the bushing out and then cut the sleeve out with a sawzall. Then getting the new bushing in was just as fun. I did all this in my driveway when it was about 14 degrees outside.

I think you just need to order the best Isuzu specialized tool they ever made. You need a six pack of Japanese double jointed midgets. They come in real handy on most any Isuzu work.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,615 Posts
Lol that would be nice !!! I've tried the trunk monkey special adition but he usualy just wants to humph my leg and piss me off so no go there .....:) having pulled several bodys in my resto projects, it makes things so much easier to get to everything. They obviously don't take laying underneath the vehicle to work on it into consideration.... I think they sit back and laugh as the rig goes together at the factory !!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
I haven't pulled a front diff on a trooper yet, so I can't really add to that portion, but the worst R&R I've ever done on a vehicle personally was the tranny/transfer case on my Dodge. It's a 3/4 ton unit and the tranny and T-case together probably weigh about 400 pounds, give or take a little. Did it on my gravel drive using a small floor jack and my own personal horsepower, and it was a nightmare. Took all day to get it stabbed, and I was bleeding and bruised when it was over. At one point, when I had the entire unit sitting on my chest while I was trying to get the front of it up high enough to put blocks under it so I could slip the floor jack under the center and get myself out from under it, I really didn't think I'd be able to get it high enough, and would end up with a couple of broken ribs. I finally managed it, after struggling for an hour, but the lesson has been learned...I'm not as strong as I was in my mid-twenties, and need to admit it to myself, if nobody else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Agree with Rhodes on this. Transmission on my Nissan 300ZX Z31 ... and I didn't have the luxury of ground clearance.

I am also dreading the day when I have to do rear wheel bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,615 Posts
Every vehicle in creation has it's potential problem !! Rhodes what you went through is dangerous and difficult in it's self. Automatics usualy always have prick bitch written all over them !!! Bansil has the perfect example...! I did a clutch in a ford f 150 mid 90's I think. I had to pull the torsion bars loose and scoot the mount crossmember back just to be able to move the trany back. No way would it drop !!! I shimmied the pressure plate out ,unbolted the flywheel and it was stuck !!!! I had to pop it with a pry bar and catch it at the same time without getting a face full of ring gear !!! Going back together was about the cenerio with the flywheel , getting it to stay and put in bolts...! I get the pleasure of working out in the field on big equipment, in the rainy season it just sucks !!! I recall laying on my back in the mud on a tarp and having the mud puddle leak in and envelop me !!! All to pull a belly pan and replace a transmission supply line that bleed it dry.... Hence why it was sitting in the crap tacular spot !!! I feel for you guys always having to work in the gravel !!!! I appreciate my shop at work big time !!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top