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I can't seem to find the "set timing connector" anywhere near my distributor. Has anyone else had this problem with their Rodeo? I am thinking that I don't have the original motor in my Rodeo. Any help would be great.
Ignitor timing on a 91 3.1 Rodeo
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HUH?
-Kevin
-Kevin
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Don't know for sure, but I'm thinking the 3.1 is basically set up the same as the 2.8 found in the 89-91 Troopers.
There is a connector at the ECM that must be disconnected before applying a timing light. The ECM is in one of the kick panels - I think, maybe someone will chime in.
There is no 'connector' a the dizzie that I know of, IF the engine in your Rodeo is OEM.
Cheers,
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There is a connector at the ECM that must be disconnected before applying a timing light. The ECM is in one of the kick panels - I think, maybe someone will chime in.
There is no 'connector' a the dizzie that I know of, IF the engine in your Rodeo is OEM.
Cheers,
My Mitchell's CD says the ESC (Electronic Spark Control) wire (or Set Timing Connector) to be disconnected when checking timing is located in a kick panel near the driver's left foot. Black/white wires.
In the 2.8 Troopers, it's a wire with a quick-disconnect that you separate when checking the timing. I imagine you'd look for a similar wire under the Rodeo's kick panel. Otherwise the timing reading will be off-scale and you won't be able to read or set it.
Stock timing is set at 10 deg BTDC, it'll run better at 14 deg advanced.
HTH............ed
In the 2.8 Troopers, it's a wire with a quick-disconnect that you separate when checking the timing. I imagine you'd look for a similar wire under the Rodeo's kick panel. Otherwise the timing reading will be off-scale and you won't be able to read or set it.
Stock timing is set at 10 deg BTDC, it'll run better at 14 deg advanced.
HTH............ed
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Thanks, I'll have to check the kickpanel today.
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Ah, semantics. LTC and Ed are on the right track. Basically, you are trying to isolate your timing and take away computer controls that can vary your timing based upon certain inputs.
I will add however, don't mess around with advancing or retarding your timing. You can damage your engine and/or reduce its life expectancy by doing this. You should only mess around with alterations if you have access to a scope and can read ignition patterns. Otherwise, trust the engineers. My 2 cents.
-Kevin
I will add however, don't mess around with advancing or retarding your timing. You can damage your engine and/or reduce its life expectancy by doing this. You should only mess around with alterations if you have access to a scope and can read ignition patterns. Otherwise, trust the engineers. My 2 cents.
-Kevin
I guarantee that it will run better, make more power, and probably get better gas mileage set at 14 or 15 deg BTDC rather than 10.
I have my 3.4 set at 14 and it runs like a champ. My old Trooper 2.8, now in the hands of my parents, is set at 15 and has always run great.
That 10 deg timing setting is more for emissions than anything else, it's an old hot rod trick to advance timing for better performance.
This motor has a knock sensor anyway so increasing the base timing by a few degrees isn't going to hurt anything. In fact, if you use higher-octane fuel, there will be less preignition/pinging and the ESC will allow a bit more timing advance for better performance yet.
What is your experience with this motor or were you just speaking in generalities. I have direct experience with a number of these and I do beg to differ.
I have my 3.4 set at 14 and it runs like a champ. My old Trooper 2.8, now in the hands of my parents, is set at 15 and has always run great.
That 10 deg timing setting is more for emissions than anything else, it's an old hot rod trick to advance timing for better performance.
This motor has a knock sensor anyway so increasing the base timing by a few degrees isn't going to hurt anything. In fact, if you use higher-octane fuel, there will be less preignition/pinging and the ESC will allow a bit more timing advance for better performance yet.
What is your experience with this motor or were you just speaking in generalities. I have direct experience with a number of these and I do beg to differ.
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My timing was at 0 when I checked it. Now it's at 14, I hope this will solve my ****ty mileage.
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Howdy. Sorry Ed, but you're wrong. How do you know your engine is running better? Because you feel it? Do you have a scope and a dyno? Can you give me numbers?
I understand exactly what you are talking about, and I have many friends who run performance shops, but I'm telling you, unless you have the right tools there is no way you can know for sure. Let me know when you have your A1-8 buddy.
-Kevin
I understand exactly what you are talking about, and I have many friends who run performance shops, but I'm telling you, unless you have the right tools there is no way you can know for sure. Let me know when you have your A1-8 buddy.
-Kevin
I don't need a dyno test to know that it runs better, pulls harder, and gets better gas mileage.
Perhaps we will just have to agree to disagree.
Again I have to wonder, do you own or have direct experience with a GM-V6, 2.8, 3.1, or 3.4 upon which you've based your assertions?
Perhaps we will just have to agree to disagree.
Again I have to wonder, do you own or have direct experience with a GM-V6, 2.8, 3.1, or 3.4 upon which you've based your assertions?
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Howdy. Hey Ed. My point is, what does your advanced timing do to your motor? Have you ever opened up a motor with advanced timing and taken a look? Advancing your timing can and most likely will cause damage and at the very least decrease the life expectancy. If you can rebuild your own motors that's great. I too have a couple of engines that are advanced from factory, but they are in no way stock motors either.
As far as having experience??????? I've never honestly owned 2.8, 3.1 or 3.4 personally. Generally speaking, I don't like GM. I've turned wrenches on everything out in the field and literally have experience on thousands of vehicles (including ones with the above engines). The majority of my experience is on Internationals (my personal favorites) and German cars. I feel this is a moot point however as we are talking about basic engine theory, not specific motors. The advanced timing issue relates to all motors regardless of make or model.
My suggestions I post to this forum are for your Joe six-pack shadetree mechanic. I could sit here and throw a bunch of acronyms out and talk heavy theory and so forth, but most folks with few exceptions wouldn't have a clue what I was talking about. So, as not to get folks in trouble I try and suggest the best course of action based upon general theory. This usually goes back to keeping your vehicle as is was designed to be, stock.
If you don't like my posts just ignore them. But don't pee on me and tell me it's raining.
-Kevin
As far as having experience??????? I've never honestly owned 2.8, 3.1 or 3.4 personally. Generally speaking, I don't like GM. I've turned wrenches on everything out in the field and literally have experience on thousands of vehicles (including ones with the above engines). The majority of my experience is on Internationals (my personal favorites) and German cars. I feel this is a moot point however as we are talking about basic engine theory, not specific motors. The advanced timing issue relates to all motors regardless of make or model.
My suggestions I post to this forum are for your Joe six-pack shadetree mechanic. I could sit here and throw a bunch of acronyms out and talk heavy theory and so forth, but most folks with few exceptions wouldn't have a clue what I was talking about. So, as not to get folks in trouble I try and suggest the best course of action based upon general theory. This usually goes back to keeping your vehicle as is was designed to be, stock.
If you don't like my posts just ignore them. But don't pee on me and tell me it's raining.
-Kevin
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What if I peed on a real cold day and said it was sleet? ...... 
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