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Hey guys! I got some questions about my ‘89 trooper. It was made in the early half of the year with the 4ZE1 fuel injection (before GM changed it.)

I’ve almost completely rebuilt this motor but my IAC valve is giving me issues and I’m having a hard time finding replacements. Do you guys know if they sell rebuild kits for those? Or would it be possible to clean it using a sonicator?

I've sprayed it with PB blaster and tapped the bottom of the valve with a screwdriver and it definitely improved but it still won’t idle very well on first startup.
 

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Watching.... I have the same problems and there are about 1/2 dozen listed online as fitting and they all look different. I may pull mine tomorrow and see if I can match one online by looking at the images.
 

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‘89 Trooper, 2.6l, Manual
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The sealed screw on the bottom is spring tensioned in relation to the choke plate inside. If you loosen it you can move it around and make an adjustment to the plate. Tighten it back down and test the valve operation w a 12v power source. It worked for me but took several attempts to get it to where I felt good about it. I just used a 12v battery wired to a spare connector to test it. The plate should be slightly open cold (like an 1/8” ish) and will slowly close under voltage. I think it’s worth trying to adjust if you’re at the point of finding a replacement since they’re so pricey.
 

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PB Blaster down the hose!!! let it sit overnight...those plates hang up and need lubrication. Try it before replacing.....also when replacing, get new hoses and relocate it up on top of the motor, easier access then trying to get those 10mm bolts in again....NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTMARE!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
PB Blaster down the hose!!! let it sit overnight...those plates hang up and need lubrication. Try it before replacing.....also when replacing, get new hoses and relocate it up on top of the motor, easier access then trying to get those 10mm bolts in again....NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTMARE!!!!
Where would you relocate it to? I’ve heard of some people doing that but I’ve also had people say not to relocate it because it needs the heat from the motor and works best where it’s at originally. Thanks!
 

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Relocate it where you can service it. It only needs the air flow heat in order to operate and where we’re talking about moving it to (on top or on the side of the intake) it’s still going to get plenty of heat in the engine bay.
there is a source for new but takes months from Japan.
I recommend you try Jerry first, then see why he says.
If he can’t get one, let me know.
 

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Where would you relocate it to? I’ve heard of some people doing that but I’ve also had people say not to relocate it because it needs the heat from the motor and works best where it’s at originally. Thanks!
I relocated mine to the front of the itec next to the fpr. Made a plate w aluminum that they share.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive fuel system
 

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PB Blaster down the hose!!! let it sit overnight...those plates hang up and need lubrication. Try it before replacing.....also when replacing, get new hoses and relocate it up on top of the motor, easier access then trying to get those 10mm bolts in again....NIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTMARE!!!!
I had planned on moving mine to the top of the motor for easier access, but wasn't sure if that was possible. Does it need to actually touch the motor to sense heat, or it that all controlled by an electrical signal? Thank you for this post.
 

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its an electrical heater, so it runs heat to the coil and it moves the gate open/closed...kind of like the thermostat on a wood burning stove stack, that coil spring heats up and moves the temp needle...
 
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