[Russell89]

ok, so maybe i enjoy the 2 12's a little too much. now i think i blew my bostons in the front. i have infinity's in the rear and want to just swap them out. so it would be the front ones now in back and back ones now in front. but im just a little curious about how to get to the front speakers. do i have to take the whole dash panel off? i have a 95 rodeo. both front and rear are 4" speakers.

 

[firefighterjohn2001]

I dont know about rodeo's but i hope you have a crossover or a bass blocker on your smaller speakers, then they wont blow or go out as fast as they normally do without a crossover or bassblocker.

 

[troopdiggin87]

80-125htz HPF or bass blocker on that small of speaker is really a good idea

 

[mdocod]

it's not a "bass blocker"... it's a crossover with nowhere to dump the low frequencies, thus, the impedance rises as the frequency drops... Most amps don't have a problem with this... but it does create a highly capacitive load which in some cases can effect distortion figures of the amplifier. For amplifiers that go into protection mode when using bass blockers, simply put a dummy load (big huge sand block resistor, 4-8ohms) in the circuit before the crossover component.

 

[troopdiggin87]

I guess you missed the part were I said hpf(high pass filter).

whatever dude cause Im the idiot here :roll:

 

[mdocod]

was just making a suggestion to help folks who might be running into amplifiers that don't like circuits like this.(most folks just call em bass blockers, wasn't refering to you spacifically, or trying to degrade anyone)

 

[Russell89]

i have the bass on the head unit turned down to negative 2. it goes up to pos. 7. i was really hoping those bostons would hold longer.

 

[mdocod]

when looking for replacements for the fronts- if you are having problems with speakers "surviving" your listening style, there are a few things you can do to help out your situation.

1. see if you can cram one of these http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=260-782 foam baffles behind the speakers when you install them. This will create a somewhat-sealed enclosure for the speakers to operate in, rather than the open-baffle behavior you usually get with dash/door mounted speakers. The small enclosure will dampen the motion of the woofer while playing deeper frequencies- thus, reducing the likallyhood that you cause mechanical damage (coil slapping magnets, or busting suspension components).
2. Don't neccessarily choose your woofer soley based on it's "rated" power... look for voice coil diameter specifications on the woofer. diameter is really the only way to significantly increase thermal capacity at a given level of output. (some might argue this, saying that the number of layers on the coil, or the coils depth can also do this.. but remember, adding layers, doesn't increase surface area, so it doesn't increase it's ability to remove heat any faster, more layers, can help deal with intermitant *bursts* of power better, but do nothing for continuas power handling. When voice coils are made longer- they can handle more power, but at the cost of efficiancy- most people turn up the volume based on how loud they want it, not based on how many watts they want to pump, so loosing efficiancy at the gain of power handling doesn't get you anywhere.) The other advantage to larger coils- is less distortion. Larger voice coils respond faster to signal, generating a more accurate sound wave based on the input. Also, larger coils support the cone more evenly, leaving less room for cone breakup at higher frequencies.(ask your local seller for a transient responce graph on the speakers you are interested in, they will scratch their heads, hehe.)
3. As we all are already mentioning, a "bass blocking" component should be installed... But.. don't waste your money on anything that is actually being marketed as a "bass blocker."... That would be supporting a product that is made with the intention of keeping the masses stupid. Not to mention, when they sell a component under such a name, they jack the price way up. (often over $10 each).. Just go to an electronics store and buy a non-polerized 100V rated capacitor anwhere from 300 to 500 microfared, (aprox 120-80hz variation from 300 to 500 microfared, respectivally for crossover point) Or order em online. Can easily get these for around $5 each. Install them in series with the driver.

Hope that helps out a little more. Had some free time tonight so the post got a little long.

 

[Russell89]

theres not many 4" drivers out there, if you have ever been shopping for them. you are limited to about 4 or 5 brands. all have about the same performance and are about the same price. also, i dont feel like taking the dash off, so it looks like the circuit city will be doing that for me. they are very knowledgeable at the one here.

 

[vphandler]

If you are sharing a amp with your subs then buy another amp. Make sure your Mids and Highs run on a seperate amp. Also make sure your power lead from the battery is run to where each amp has its own lead and put an inline fuse in. Most Component speakers will come with a crossover you install inline in your door. Two amps will also allow you to tune and purchase your amp for the way you intend to use it. The downside to this (or at least in my trooper) is that you may hear engine noise in your highs if you set your gain too high. If you have too much bass where your highs are not heard then adjust the gain on your subs amp down and don't be such a BassHead..lol...Good Luck!!

 

[Slinky]

BTW to get to the front speakers on rodeos with the 4" speakers in the dash is VERY easy. on the right side there is one screw and the grill pops off. on the left side there are five screws on the larger panel and it pops off. takes about five minutes to change both front speakers.