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I had some vandalism to my truck last night, lug nuts stolen, others removed. Totally random, I was in a place I never go (Capital Hill, Seattle).

Anyway, before I figured out what happened, a front wheel came off. Three bolts sheared, the others tweaked. Front fender bent back, that'll need work or a salvaged piece. So reading, it looks like I pull the whole hub to re-install new studs? Any trick to pressing them in? Can I get them at NAPA or such? I see NAPA has a p/n for a boot cover, is it generic enough they'll likely stock it vs. special order? Are the studs generic enough - NAPA had no part listed for a 1998 Trooper/SLX.

I need to do this asap so hints on where to get parts are very helpful. My car was down for maintenance, so this leaves me totally stranded. I have a (non mechanical) friend with a car coming to help tomorrow. I need new outer CV boots and repacked bearings, so it looks like I'm all the way there on that issue, too, right? Follow this post: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=56&Isuzu_Front_Bearing_Repack, right?

Thanks for any emergency help.
 

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Oro said:
So reading, it looks like I pull the whole hub to re-install new studs? Any trick to pressing them in? Can I get them at NAPA or such? I see NAPA has a p/n for a boot cover, is it generic enough they'll likely stock it vs. special order? Are the studs generic enough - NAPA had no part listed for a 1998 Trooper/SLX.

Thanks for any emergency help.
With the hubs off the vehicle...

*Pull the rotor off the hub.

Undo the bolts, then use a big screwdriver and hammer.

Drive the screwdriver in between, until you get a small gap started. Then work your way around, with the screwdriver, a little at a time, until you can pull the two apart.

*Remove the bad studs.

Usually you can smack them out with a good solid blow from a heavy hammer.

But you want to save at least one, with good threads near the end. So, on one, put the lugnut back on, until it is flush, (if an open nut), or seated, (if it is the acorn type).

Then smack the stud out. When it is loose, remove the lug nut.

*Now take that one good stud with you to the parts place.

Have them match it, and buy as many as needed, to replace all the bad ones.

*To put the new stud back into the hub, get it started from the back side.

By feel, try to get the splines on the new stud lined up in the grooves already present in the hub.

Now tap it a couple times, to get it started.

Then, stack washers on the threaded side, and then put the lug nut on. Tighten the lug nut to pull the stud the rest of the way into the hub.

Remove the lug nut and washers, and yer done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Groovy, that fills in the gap of knowledge from the hub article. Thanks!

Index, eh? I know it a bit. I get there to ride and head out to the wilderness. Planning on riding up West Cady Ridge late this month or next.

Thanks again!
 

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Hey Bryan, sorry to hear about the vandalism, dang low lifes. Another reason I just take the light rail to Seattle.
Besides, who wants to pay for parking anyway?

Selador has said it right. Just be careful when removing the bearings from the spindle.

The article you referenced has all that information.
http://planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=56&Isuzu_Front_Bearing_Repack

The Napa studs work fine, I hammer the old studs out with a regular hammer and press new ones on with the same hammer.
Others have used a lug nut, and tightened it til the stud pulls flush. I see no problem with that, just dont over torque it or you'll stretch the stud.

While you're in there you can check the condition of your bearings, and if you like repack them.
It would be a great time to also replace the hub oil seal. There are no boots to mess with, unless its a CV boot you're refering to.
But replace those only if they are torn, there is an article for that in the Hall of Fame section.

Oh darn, I just remembered you asked me to help you out with this before. But you disappeared. :lol:

Im sure you can do it. Good luck!
 

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Is this technique applicable on my 95 rodeo? Ive broken off two studs so there isnt a lug on either one. And ive got one lug half way on another stud, but it has re-threaded itself on there and stopped about half way and wont tighten or loosen without breaking the stud.

edit* the studs on my rear wheels
 

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Dae said:
Hey Bryan, sorry to hear about the vandalism, dang low lifes. Another reason I just take the light rail to Seattle.
Besides, who wants to pay for parking anyway?

Selador has said it right. Just be careful when removing the bearings from the spindle.

The article you referenced has all that information.
http://planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=56&Isuzu_Front_Bearing_Repack

The Napa studs work fine, I hammer the old studs out with a regular hammer and press new ones on with the same hammer.
Others have used a lug nut, and tightened it til the stud pulls flush. I see no problem with that, just dont over torque it or you'll stretch the stud.

While you're in there you can check the condition of your bearings, and if you like repack them.
It would be a great time to also replace the hub oil seal. There are no boots to mess with, unless its a CV boot you're refering to.
But replace those only if they are torn, there is an article for that in the Hall of Fame section.

Oh darn, I just remembered you asked me to help you out with this before. But you disappeared. :lol:

Im sure you can do it. Good luck!
I like to use a stack of washers and a hex nut,but there is a risk. If it takes more force to press (or pull) the stud into place,you could stretch the stud or strip the threads so be careful. I dont like to do it with a wheel and a lug nut. Seems better to use a hex nut. My thought is,if I end up damaging something,its just going to be the stud. If I have a wheel on it,if I end up over tightening it,I could damage the wheel as well. Honestly I used to use a the wheel and just put the lug nuts on,tigten them all down and them make sure the stud was in place and never had a problem with that either. Of course,never having a problem,does not mean it will allways work. One thing Ive learned over the years is to use a torque stick or torque wrench.
 

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RodeoRaymon said:
Is this technique applicable on my 95 rodeo? Ive broken off two studs so there isnt a lug on either one. And ive got one lug half way on another stud, but it has re-threaded itself on there and stopped about half way and wont tighten or loosen without breaking the stud.

edit* the studs on my rear wheels
Looks like you'll be pulling the axle/bearing carrier and hub. From peeking at myisuzuparts.com, looks like there is a clip in the differential that has to come off.

You're looking at draining the diff, removing the cover, remove the clip, then go to the brake/wheel hub and remove the brakes and the bearing carrier. The axle and hub should slide out and you can do the above process to knock out the old ones and press in the new ones.

Definitely more of a PITA than on the front...

You will need to refill the differential after reassembly. Might consider picking up the axle seal cause someone will say, "you might as well while you have it apart."

Not awful, but not fun. ALWAYS start the lugs by hand and if they don't go on easily, stop and see whats wrong. Of course you can't do much for breaking them off while removing, but they should never get cross threaded and stuck while putting them on- that user error.
 
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