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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks, Ramblin, Cessna and RamAir, I appreciate the info. I'm sticking with the 4L30E, and I'm up to the task of a rebuild...I've been a marine mechanic since Chrysler had outboards and Paragon made boat transmissions. Did a lot of Velvet Drives, went to Borg-Warner marine transmission school many moons ago, so there's no technical sweat to this for me.
However: more questions- the kid I bought her from was draggin' a scrap trailer back and forth through these hills for a couple months, when he lost second, third and fourth. First gear is a couple seconds slow to engage, as is reverse, but both are solid. First will spin tires, as will reverse, and I took first all the way to 5500 without any noticeable fade. There's no leaks, no issues with the variable mode selector, but when it goes into second gear, the poor thing does an instant fade into freewheel.
Ergo, I am assuming that it's smoked...as I did the same to my poor old Trooper, may she rest in pieces.
Is there a possibility that there is another issue here? Servo problems? Of course, it does shift (into limbo)...Being that you are the isuzoo high-priests, I defer to your collective experience. Is there anything else to check before I break out the pressure washer and the jackstands?
Also, are there any 4L30E-specific quirks or gremlins I should be aware of in proceeding with this trans rebuild? Also, I'm considering using an old A/C condenser as a trans cooler afterwards, so as to avoid having a repeat performance. Kinda hillbilly, but it should work like a charm, shouldn't it? Please advise.
Thanks, y'all.
 

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Forget the AC condenser - the tubes are too small.

Sounds like you've lost the intermediate sprag or the annular seals.

Tear it down - it's been ridden hard and put away wet.

If you've got the right tools, it's easy. If you don't - well, you can't usually fake it. I know I never could fake it in all the units I rebuilt.

If you've never timed the compound planetary gears on one of these before, be prepared to shoot yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate your help. I'll be starting this later in the week, and I'll shoot some pix to journal the journey, so to speak...maybe it'll help others facing the same issues. Adios!
Bryan
 

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I see that you have some related experiences, so - just to make sure that you get off on a good foot, there are a few ground rules that you prolly already know but I'll reiterate a few anyway.

1) Dedicate a place to do this work that will not be disturbed by the dog, needing to park another vehicle in the same place and it has to have a large good metal topped workbench and solid (not packed dirt) floor.

2) Make yous choice for cleaning agent now and get sufficient amounts of it. You'll need at least mineral spirits (non-LOW VOC if you can find them) and suitable pans/containers and a non absorptive surface on which to work.

3) Lights. Can't say that loudly enough.

4) A compressor and some decent blower nozzles.

5) Take lots of personal pictures for reassembly.

I know all the above is obvious, but I've been called to help a person or two who gets into trouble and cannot remember where things go, to where they went when they went 'sproing!' and flew into oblivion and/or if the dog ate a critical part.

You WILL need the front pump alignment tool. This is not a "maybe". In all the years I built any unit that required a front pump alignment tool, I took it as a challenge to my abilities to at least try to do it without the tool. I never got it right - not 100% anyway. I always resorted to the special tool. I quit trying after about 15 years of not hitting three cherries; yeah it's the same as pulling the arm on a one armed bandit.

Get some Marvel Mystery Oil to pre-lube the valve body parts.

Assemble the clutch packs DRY. The reason is so you can test clearances without the ATF swelling the fibers and giving you a bad setup. They will become instantly 'wet' once the unit starts.

Get a container of Doctor Tranny assembly grease in GREEN for all the tricky assembly jobs. Green so it shows up as NOT a red fluid leak later on.



More later - I need a nap. I get cranky if I don't nap.
 

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Later thoughts.

I have a neat little booklet called "What To Do If A 4L30-E Hits Your Shop".

I'll create a Google Document of it later on and post a link to it here to let you see what the problems a professional shop has with these little demonic units.

PS: If I become sarcastic - it's to make a serious point. Nothing personal.
 
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