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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am hoping to use some old factory dash switches to control my ARB system. The ARB system uses three switches, they are basically on/off switches for the compressor, rear locker, and front locker. They are also wired so the front locker cannot be turned on if the rear locker is not on.

I have a pile of old factory switches. Some have lights on them, some don't. They have anywhere from 4 to 6 connectors. In each case I have been able to identify two connectors that seem to be the main on-off, but I am wondering what the other connectors might be for. It would be nice if the lights worked when the switch is on. Anybody played with these before?
 

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Ones with 6 wires probably have 2 wires for contacts, 2 for back lighting (illumination) and might have 2 for a light that comes on when its switched on. On the rodeo, illumination would be green/red or red/green for power. I believe solid black is ground for the lighting. Probably the same for troopers.

I will look at wiring diagrams when I get home and see if they get specific enough to tell what goes where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good point, I didn't think about backlighting. Most of them don't have wires, the connector must have gone onto the back of the switch body. A few have a short run of wires before the connector. I don't care about activating the backlighting, but it would be nice to get the "on" light to work.

I just have a pile of factory switches for things like fog lights and rear defrost that Jerry sent me. I hope to use these in the dash knockouts for a nice clean look. But for most of them, with the continuity setting on the multimeter I can only identity two contacts that have continuity with the switch activated. I guess the ones for the lights will not show continuity?
 

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Depends on your meter. Some only show short/open with continuity, others combine it with ohms. Use an ohm meter and the contacts of the switch should show a dead short (0 ohms) and the light should show something higher then 0. Send pics of the back of the ones you want to use if you can and I might be able to figure out which pin is which from looking at diagrams.
 

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If you want to use the three switches, just run a hot to the hot lug and then test the other terminals for hot with the switch on and off. Regarding the 2 lockers, jumper hot from the rear switch to the front switch. Depending on loads of lockers, compressor and capacity of switches, you might need relays.
 

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I may not be much help on the switches. My manuals only go back to '99 so older ones might be different.

Here is the diagram for a '99 trooper fog light switch.


Pin 1 not used or doesnt exist
Pin 2 Ground for back light (dimmer switch)
Pin 3 Ground for "on" light
Pin 4 Common (+12v) side of switch
Pin 5 Load side of switch
Pin 6 +12v for back light

The only switches in my rodeo with "on" lights are cruise control and rear defroster which are both momentary switches and wouldnt work for your application. Might want to check the ones you have to make sure they are on/off and not momentary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmmm, so in that case I would need in to 4, out from 5, and 3 to ground...looks like the "on" light gets power from the same on/off circuit, good to know. 1, 2, and 6 would not be needed for my purposes. That is helpful even if not exactly the same as the switches I have, now I see how all the pins can be used for a "simple" switch, and how the on light is wired.

Now I need to dig out the ARB circuit diagram and see how things match up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
shooter said:
If you want to use the three switches, just run a hot to the hot lug and then test the other terminals for hot with the switch on and off.
Yeah, the on and off part should be easy, I am just trying to get the "on" lights to work too.

Regarding the 2 lockers, jumper hot from the rear switch to the front switch. Depending on loads of lockers, compressor and capacity of switches, you might need relays.
As I recall, the mini-compressor is so small it doesn't require relays...certainly there were none in the ARB wiring harness provided.
 

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If you don't find continuity in either position it's likely the bulb is burned out.
(at least this was the case with the used switches I picked up)
Peel the silver sticker off the side of the switch and use a flat blade screw driver to remove the bulb holder.
I bought replacement lamps at Radioshack and it didn't take more than ten minutes to change them both out.
 
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