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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am installing PIAA 520 driving lights in my 98 Troop. Almost everything went in without any issues and looks great, except Inow need to power-up the relay and install the switch.

Basically, I need to tap/splice into the high-beam power wire, and then run the on/off switch through the firewall and into the interior and mount it on the dash. I need your help.

Which wire is the power wire for the high beams? How should I route the switch wire through the firewall?

Thanks a lot.
 

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why do you "need" to tap into the high beam wire?

When I installed my PIAAs I just tapped into the power for the cigarette lighter. That way I can use my lights any time I need to.

As far as going through the firewall, there should be a bundle of wires already going through it on the drivers side. They will go through a rubber seal. all you need to do is push the wire through and fish it out on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help.

Well, I want to tap the high beams because I intend to only use the driving lights at the same time I'm using my high beams (since the driving lights go about 2x as far). I'll keep the switch "on" at all times, and whenever I flip on the high beams, my driving lights will also illuminate. This is what I do with my fog lights/low beams. Its convenient/intuitive for me, as opposed to flipping various switches on and off as oncoming cars approach, conditions change, etc . . .
 

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Just take a test light and see what wire is hot when the high beams are on, there should only be 3 wires going to the bulb. Make sure it's wired so that the high beam wire is only turning on the relay and it's getting its power directly from the battery, that way there won't be any additional strain placed on the original headlight relay. And make sure you use a fuse; I had a small fire in my old trooper once because an un-fused wire grounded out.

This type of wire connector works great.
http://www.hayata-na.com/products/e4/e4-8/m0810.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you very much for the help. I figured it out a while ago. The PIAA kit is very nicely set-up so as to wire in the manner you describe - directly to the battery, with fuses, grounds, etc, and includes a "tap-in" connector similar to the one you suggest. Sweet kit.

Check out how the PIAA driving lights augment the high beams:

 

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Hey Techno, where did you purchase your driving lights? I'm hoping to find a good deal on a pair of the round style (any brand, preferrably the cheapest!). Just want to see if they come any cheaper than on eBay.
 

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Go to wallmart, I got my lights there for 15 bucks and i'm really happy with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
drudiggy said:
Hey Techno, where did you purchase your driving lights? I'm hoping to find a good deal on a pair of the round style (any brand, preferrably the cheapest!). Just want to see if they come any cheaper than on eBay.
I forget where I got them. I'll have to check. The 520's ARE overpriced, no matter where you go, though. Very popular light system.
 

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Has anyone ever try the PIAA Solitaire? found em real cheap in ebay for abt $35-39.

And maybe m abit on the Ignant side :p hehehe but I looked under my 99 Trooper S (no foglamp) but next to where the foglamp suppose to be look like a prewired connector? is it for the foglamp or is it for something else completely? and how did u guys installed the switch? i wish they made switches that fit in perfectly with the switch cut out fob thats already on the dash they seem to be all the same size as in the toyotas and nissans too :? i hate to drill a hole on the dash to fit in these darn switch, I have one of those Indiglo dash thats waiting in the box because i cant decide what to do with that darn switch :evil:
 

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Please excuse the wires. I haven't finished yet. But that is with it off, and this is with it on



Thw switch cost me like $8, but it is a nice switch and comes in 3 or 4 colors of illumination. IT fit with very little modification in my 90 Trooper, and I assume the slots are about the same size in the Newer models. This switch is the same as the ARB one I think.
 
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