[TROOPY]

I am having power loss up hills or/and under load at 3K RPM. When Im climbing the whole trooper will jerk slightly, the rpms seem constant and all but if I give it more gas it will completly stumble. This is a new rebuilt motor with a recently failed headgasket, head gasket was replaced. I do notice a bit of tranny fluid coming from manual transmission, could the tanny be slipping? I know it isnt the clutch, rear axle or drive shaft(s).
The morons at jiffy lube put atf in the tranny when it was there instead of reg. oil. as it calls for in my original owners manual. They showed me their specs on the atf and say Isuzu calls for atf instead of oil now??? WTF??
So I rand with the ATF, now problems are croping up? Could this be engine related spudering at high end rpms related to fuel spark issue? I replaced fuel filter & dumped some fuel injector cleaner in the tank thinking the fuel delivery could be the problem with no change. I havent looked at the plugs, wires and cap rotor yet. Could it be distributor time? I can rev the thing to 3 gran with no spudder when it isnt under load though. Any suggestions would be helpfull... especialy if you have experienced this with your 2.6l Isuzu

THANKS

 

[NwFlTrooperFan]

Generally speaking, most ignition and fuel problems are the most likely to show up under load like that. I replace my plugs every 30k and the cap/rotor & wires about every 60k. Some would say this is overkill, but it keeps vehicles running their best. I'd focus on the ignition. Just my 2 pennies.

Dave

 

[eeZooZooJaz]

I would try cutting holes in the floor pan and maybe help out a bit by putting your legs thru and running up the hills. After all, shouldn't we help out our fellow automobiles that have done so much for us?

 

[TROOPY]

holes in the floorboard might work but i would probably burn the **** out of my calves on the cat conv. ~(jackass :roll: )

 

[eeZooZooJaz]

Hehehe.... :wink:

 

[Adam]

Hi Troopy,
I think that this is the problem that I battled for two years. I finally swapped in a used distributor and it seems to have solved the problem. I still need to test it more to be sure, but I think that it has solved the problem. The truck is not my daily driver, so i have not had a chance to put some miles on it and see if its going to be a permanent fix. Two other issues that I had relating to it where mine would only do it once the engine reached operating temp. My tach would also bounce. When it stayed steady, it was reading way off. When I drove it after replacing the distrib, I noticed neither of these problems, and it did not miss. It did ping however. That may just be the timing out of whack, or i may have traded on problem for another. If you can find a cheap distrib, i would still recommend that as a possible solution. I think mine went bad from the oil that kept getting inside of it. :roll:

Adam

 

[Joe Isuzu]

holes in the floorboard might work but i would probably burn the f__k out of my calves on the cat conv. ~(jackass :roll: )

You may have stoped up cat comv. Joe did that till I drug off the cat conv. back to tail pipe. I went with a header to flow master to a turn down. The 2.6 sounds good and much more power. Larry

 

[Trooperz2.6]

Just out of interest. Are you saying you ditched the cat in favor of just running a standard system? If you had extras added could you let me know what they were? We think we might be having a similar problem and cat's are very expensive.

 

[Joe Isuzu]

Joe is catless, just header, flowmaster and then a turn down. Joe sounds great! I live near Atlanta but run Tennessee tags so there isn't an Insp. Larry 8)

 

[Trooperz2.6]

Hmmmm.. Interesting. I am in WA so no inspection either. I am going to have to look into that.
thanks

Cris

 

[Joe Isuzu]

You can get the header from J.C. Whitney for $129.00, that and a 3" lift and big *** tires is the best thing I've done to Joe, he is a great trail rig. 8)

 

[TROOPY]

cat is brand new this is not a cat exhaust issue

 

[wrenchmonster]

Howdy folks. I just wanted to say that only the correct fluids should be used in whatever system. In this case, using ATF in a manual transmission. Geezz, not only does ATF not have the same viscosity, heat range and lubrication additives that oil uses, but ATF is also highly detergent which can cause damage in itself. Bearings, seals, and any nylon (if used) in the transmission can be damaged by the ATF. Not to mention there is more than one type of ATF!!

All fluid recommendations should be followed strictly by manufactuer. We're not in 1950 anymore and systems are designed to work with specific fluids. I once saw a mechanic put in ATF into a pwr steering system that called for a mineral oil based fluid. The damage was a whole new pwr steering system including pump, hoses and rack totaling over $1500 in this case. Again, I cannot stress enough using the proper fluids at all times.

-Kevin