Well, it has begun. I started ordering parts for this swap. Removed the TCM and indicator module as well as the master cylinder dummy plug. Transfer case it out which needs a bearing or 2, and ordered the hydraulics, pedals, lines, and console. Clutch and flywheel ordered too. Once I make a little progress, then I will order the tranny. As with all my projects, attention to detail, and precious little time, this will be turtle slow.
So, I started removing the front console which is just 4 screws on the front console, remove the transfer knob, put the trans in N or lower and pull cover half way off. Then unplug the alarm swich, trans power/winter drive switch, and my added fog lamp switch. Pull off and you can see the shifter. You can leave the rear console alone. 6 screws on the shifter, a couple of more plugs, undo the shifter linkage on the trans and pull her out. Be careful because the rubber lining under the metal shifter plate can stick and tear.
On the 2nd gen 3.2, the TCM and indicator module are sandwiched right in front of where the clutch master cylinder will mount. They actually mount on the clutch pedal bucket. 2 nuts to take off here and unplug the 3 plugs and your out. One thing I don't like about old Isuzu's is that the plastic tabs and clips sometimes like to break so be careful there too.
After that's out, 2 nuts and you can remove the dummy plug for the master cylinder. I had to encourage it to come off. The foam seal on it has to be broken to come off. The rest on the firewall does not want to come off and I'm hesitant to spray anything here since it might run down the inside of the firewall where I can't get to it. Any ideas?
I decided to remove the transfer case, just seven nuts and bolts, disconnect driveshafts and connectors, 4 bolts on top to remove shifter and you can pull it out. I choose after trying a tranny jack attachment and the regular floor jack cradle to just take it all off and use the hole in the floor jack to balance the transfer with the drain plug in the hole. Worked great. I did this because the tranny jack attachment made it too tall to clear the transfer case.
I'm debating on how to support the trans to take it out. I removed my custom cooler and lines, but was unable to loosen the cooler lines at the trans. I think it may clear when I pull it back. Still need to remove the starter and bellhousing bolts along with the torque converter bolts.
Removed brake pedal bolt, spring, and master cylinder clip. Clip is interesting. I used a Weed Eater mixture tool to push the pin while I pryed the lock part away. Worked well. Then a little twist on the brake pedal and out she came.
New Exedy/Daikin Clutch Kit with NSK pilot and throwout bearings. The pilot bearing is interesting as the ID is wider than the bearing itself. Throwout bearing has a push design into the pressure plate.
I discovered looking at the AISIN catalog that there were listed a clutch master and slave cylinder. Having had very good look with this brand in the past, I decided to order both. To my surprise, both were boxed in Tokico boxes with AISIN stickers on them and the Master was made by Lucas. I called AISIN to verify that this was their parts and they said indeed they repackage these. So, I sent the Master back and kept the slave which is made by NISSIN which may be a OEM supplier to Isuzu, but I have not been able to verify that yet but the seal on the end has an Isuzu part # on it. I've since reordered an Adler brand Master and am interested to see what it turns out to be.
Ordered the AR5 this week and a tranny jack per hatfields' recommendation. The yard I ordered the trans from didn't think the shifter was complete so I'm waiting to see next week when it comes what happens. Looking forward to getting it.
Tried briefly to install the clutch hydraulic damper that's located on the inner fender with hard lines and haven't found the way yet to make it fit. It looks like these are installed on the body before the motor is when they are built. Anyone know how to get it in there?
I had to remove the lines from the damper and was just barely able to fit it between the manifold and inner fender with my left arm from underneath, not fun. And looks like the only way to attach the 3 hard lines to it is to take the front drivers tire off and put my hand between the frame and body. This is made more fun by the fact that the salvage yard bent the line.
Here's some pics of the differences in the pedal buckets. They are close except the brake switch was relocated on both the bucket and pedal as well as the spring. The 95 also has a wiring harness retaining bracket that I cut off with a spot weld drill bit and I think I will just bolt it on the 94 bucket.
Since the buckets were rusted from the junk yard, I decided to dip them in phosphoric acid to clean them up along with the rusted exhaust bolts. They are starting to look like new again. It just takes some time and patience.