Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Have my buddies 99' Amigo in my garage. He hit a deer over the winter and messed up the front grill, hood, and windshield. Went to pick it up from him the other day to bring it over to my garage and all the sudden it wouldn't start. (He would go out once a month and start it to keep the battery charged he said) I figured the battery was garbage, so I just winched it up the trailer and took it home.

Put a good battery in at home and all I got was the loud click from the solenoid. This just happend to me in my old chevy truck, so I figured the starter died. I pulled the starter and took it to the parts store. Had them test it and it bench tested fine..... Thought that to be odd, so I took it down the road to another parts store and again it bench tests fine.

Go back home, and clean all the connections on the battery, starter, grounds and hook the starter back up to the lines. I didn't want to intstall it back into the truck before testing it, so I grabbed a C clamp and clamped the starter to the frame. Jumped back in the truck, hit the starter and it sounds like the starter is engaging and moving about 1/16 of an inch, and disengages, then engages and moves very little then disengages. Sounds like a clicking, but not a low battery solenoid clicking, I can actually hear the starter engage and spin a tiny bit then disengage.

I went back under the truck and checked connections and everything looks fine, unhook the battery and hook it back up, move the connections a bit and hit the starter again and get the same issue, THEN it hits and spins fine. Thought maybe it was going to work. Turned it off then back on, and it spins fine again. Try a third time and its back to the clicking noise I descriped before. Try a fourth time and I get nothing at all.... not a click, not a sound.... Go under the truck and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and I get the same clicking noise again, doesn't sound like it wants to just spin normal.... Try the starter again and I get nothing...

Not really sure what is going on here. Am I just looking at a bad connection somewhere? Bad ground? Think the starter could actually be going bad?

Any ideas would be great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,084 Posts
I had my Rodeo doing a very similar thing. Starter tested fine but would not turn over the engine. Turned out that the alternator was froze up. The rear bearing balls were all jammed. I found this out when I full charged the battery and jumped it from an other car. It finally turned over and started. Then smoke from the belt slipping over the Alt's pulley caught my attention. :shock:

If the car hit a dear something might be jammed on the engine keeping it from turning. Have you tried to turn it by hand using a wrench on the crank bolt?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya, I had thought that maybe the engine was jammed up, that's why I have the starter out of the truck and just clamped to the frame. The starter isn't actually "in" the truck, its just hooked to the electrical lines. It isn't under any type of load at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,588 Posts
I had a similar issue with a starter last week. Bench tested fine, but would not work in the truck (good battery with new cables & alt). Nothing but a loud click. Sometimes I could click 20-30 times and it would eventually turn and fire up.

Finally it died completely last week and I brought the starter to NAPA and they put in new contacts. Cost me $30 bucks and the starter works fine now.

If you want to DIY, here is a link. Not an Isuzu, but it should be pretty close...

http://www.sherco-auto.com/contacts.htm

EDIT: A quick Google search shows that starter contact wear / damage is pretty often associated with this type of clicking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Not goofy at all. It's actually a very common failure for Denso starters. Replace the solenoid contacts and you'll be good. Should be able to find a solenoid repair kit at O'Reilly's or a similar store near you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!

So you think its the solenoid?

What would make it bench test fine at two different places and act up in the truck?

The only other thing I was thinking about is that the Amigo is a 5 speed, does this sound like a clutch safety switch issue?

I'll look into the solenoid repair kit, I don't have an O'riley's near me, but I have Autozone, Napa, and Advanced... should be something at one of those shops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,588 Posts
Hx214 said:
Thanks guys!

So you think its the solenoid?

What would make it bench test fine at two different places and act up in the truck?

The only other thing I was thinking about is that the Amigo is a 5 speed, does this sound like a clutch safety switch issue?

I'll look into the solenoid repair kit, I don't have an O'riley's near me, but I have Autozone, Napa, and Advanced... should be something at one of those shops.
No, it does not sound like a clutch safety switch issue. If your clutch safety switch is not working (not closing the switch when the clutch pedal is depressed), you won't even hear the click. At least that is the case for my Trooper.

To test this:

1. put the tranny in neutral, do not press the clutch and turn the key.

2. press the clutch and turn the key

Is the response from doing 1 & 2 exactly the same? If no, then it is not a clutch switch issue. If yes, then it "might" be an issue with that switch.

As for the contact repair, NAPA can either do the repair or get the parts. If your NAPA cannot or will not do this, post back up & I will ask my NAPA for the part number that they used....although not til next week. The wife and I are taking the trooper car-camping for a couple of days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
When the solenoid contacts fail, it's because the two contacts don't wear evenly. When you take out the old one, note the difference in thickness. This is the click. The contact plunger gets pulled down using electromagnetic force but because one contact is thinner, it doesn't close the circuit every time. The reason why the solenoid works better on the bench is simple: more power to pull the plunger down harder. This also accounts for why jump-starting helps. The running car is providing 14+ volts instead of the usual 12 volts or less supplied by the battery alone. More power available means the plunger comes down harder and is more likely to make the connection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Chuffer,

Could you get me that part number your NAPA used for the solenoid kit? I was out of town and stopped in at a O'Reileys and asked the people there for a solenoid kit for the starter and they looked at me like I was from Mars. I explained to them what it was and they still had no clue. I don't want the same BS to happen at my NAPA, so if you could arm me with that number before I even bother to go in it would be great.

I did find this website and they have a complete kit for 26.99.... does that sound about right?

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top