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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy! So I am about to drain, clean and refill my automatic transmission and rear LSD differential this weekend. First question, is there an OEM gasket for the rear diff or will super grey liquid gasket work if I wanna take the cover off and clean the inside? Same question for the transmission pan?
Second: what transmission fluid type do I use for the automatic transmission? There are a lot of options at the auto parts store and the employee and I were kind of confused. Same question for diff fluid, 75w90 w/LSD additive?
thanks in advanced!
 

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For the diff, I'd buy normal 80W-90 or 75W-90 and add a 4oz tube of LSD additive. For the automatic transmission, just get dexron compatible fluid. The owner's manual probably calls for III and we are on IV or V now but they are backwards compatible. That Dana rear axle should have a paper gasket you can buy for it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For the diff, I'd buy normal 80W-90 or 75W-90 and add a 4oz tube of LSD additive. For the automatic transmission, just get dexron compatible fluid. The owner's manual probably calls for III and we are on IV or V now but they are backwards compatible. That Dana rear axle should have a paper gasket you can buy for it.
Awesome, thanks mate! Would liquid gasket be better than paper? I’m thinking super grey or super black and let it cure overnight before I fill it up?
 

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Howdy! So I am about to drain, clean and refill my
Amsoil has a compatible ATF . Signature Multi - a bit pricey.
There's posts on using a fumoto valve (its a pain to drop the pan) to help dump and fill.
(presuming you have 4l30e)
Basically drain/you get 3-4qts... close it... the pump 4+ quarts into the overfill, close the valve, let it circulate for a few mins(or until warm) and while running in ... open the valve and let the excess drain off (in N - some debate over this so check the posts) .
If it gets super COLD (where I've been -40) Synthetic will help greatly in the tranny (less noise)
(read the packaging to ensure you get DEXIII VI some ppl think its too thin) RedLine also has a Synthetic III - RoyalPurple used to be but late last year changed to VI)
 

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Awesome, thanks mate! Would liquid gasket be better than paper? I’m thinking super grey or super black and let it cure overnight before I fill it up?
Yea you can -- that is what Isuzu used for the oil pan lol. Just make sure it has plenty of time to set according to the tube and ensure the mating surfaces are clean clean
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Amsoil has a compatible ATF . Signature Multi - a bit pricey.
There's posts on using a fumoto valve (its a pain to drop the pan) to help dump and fill.
(presuming you have 4l30e)
Basically drain/you get 3-4qts... close it... the pump 4+ quarts into the overfill, close the valve, let it circulate for a few mins(or until warm) and while running in ... open the valve and let the excess drain off (in N - some debate over this so check the posts) .
If it gets super COLD (where I've been -40) Synthetic will help greatly in the tranny (less noise)
(read the packaging to ensure you get DEXIII VI some ppl think its too thin) RedLine also has a Synthetic III - RoyalPurple used to be but late last year changed to VI)
Awesome advice! I threw a fumuto on the engine oil pan, all my cars have it, love that lil thing. I’ll triple check the oil options at my local shop! I heard IV, V and VI now supersede III but does that make them ok to use?
 

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Awesome advice! I threw a fumuto on the engine oil pan, all my cars have it, love that lil thing. I’ll triple check the oil options at my local shop! I heard IV, V and VI now supersede III but does that make them ok to use?
Yea you can use any of them as they are backwards compatible -- meaning the newer version meets or exceed the standard of the older version so it is safe to use V for example on a vehicle taking III
 

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I bet. If so, I think you’ll have better luck loosening the fill plug which is a 3/8” square drive vs loosening the 10 bolts without turning it into a 3 day ordeal. Some heat from a torch, penetrating fluid, work it back and forth.
They should come out with clean threads. The heads might be very rusty, might be able to hammer on a smaller socket. Or even use a vicegrip plier. But also these bolts are never that tight. Pounding on them with a hammer can also help.

I also have taken to using a marine grease on some bolt threads that are exposed to water under vehicles when putting stuff back together.
 
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