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Discussion Starter · #2 ·





That's the best I can do till I'm wheelin lol!!
It's hard to show the suspension in the pic's. When I had the front up the right rear was maxed.
When I backed up on the block it was fairly even.
 

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F-ing bada**....no ****, but I love you.....Got a shot with one of the tires off? One that shows the whole stretch of your links, trying to suss out the top bars....You just use regular bushings? Not hiems or super pivot?
 

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Can I ask why you're running a 4 link with a panhard? I mean I know theres not enough room to triangulate a 4 link so why not run a 3link plus panhard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used all rear pieces only thing was I lentghened the bottom arms. I went four link because I think the more connections the better and stronger. The right upper is welded tontje cast iron. But I wanted to keep it low stock looking and the pan/ starter and Exaust would have been in the way. If you look (might not see because of pic cropping) the right upper link conectipm just fits between the engine and frame and engine motor mount assembly. When I built my buggy I used ford after market upper shakle bushings. One the off road stuff is spendy it wears out and squeaks, and it's spendy. The bushings where easy to come by and I get two for $25 bucks. Did need alot but still way cheaper. So same idea here the stock bushing are big/flexible , hopefully easy to
Find later lol, but have how ever many (100,000) miles on them and still good. I thought why not!!
Even though the upper link arms are triangulated the bushings are parallel so I had to have the track arm.

I will take what ever pics you guys want/need just let me know. The ride to me is just as good as stock after those pics I went through some nasty pot holes and just smiled.
 

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bradzuzu said:
I went four link because I think the more connections the better and stronger.
Eh not really. Its more what you build your links out of and how your brackets are mounted.

The design of a 4 link triangulated w/o a panhard bar is that all 4 links move in the same arc and the triangulated links center the axle. When you add a panhard bar to this you eliminate the need for the second upper control arm. Truthfully if you removed the upper on top of the pumpkin youd pick up a huge amount of flex by reducing bind.

And despite the links being somewhat triangulated as you said the bushings are no mounted on that angle and theres not enough triangulation to remove the panhard as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know, it's what I had and for what it is it's not to shabby. I triangulated my buggy in the rear with out a track arm. No twisting binding or fatigue. The front still needed a track arm and being as thus at high speeds I like the comfort thought of it helping to keep me stable. So that being said if I was to have done a three link my amigo it would have to be sitting much higher. And the rear on those is kinda hosed
There's a crossmember up above the upper link arms limiting and then the dumb gas tank going down. I'm sure you know... Could extend the upper towers a couple inches for starters.
 

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Looks good man! I know mine would be hanging a front tire in that picture with the IFS. I wannna wheel with you if I'm ever back out west. Hell, if I have the money, I want you to build me a SAS like that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you very much guys I'd love to help people build there own set ups. the biggest expense was the axle rebuild itself. I van get them for a couple hundred bucks which isn't bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i46 ... 5ae458.jpg
This is the best way for you guys to see how tight it is when stuffed. Without having a cropped down pic.
It was really helpful to build it bare frame. Just trying to make sure there wouldn't be any interference.
The frame horns where my guide for the most part.
 

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bradzuzu said:
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i469/bradblake/9f5ae458.jpg
This is the best way for you guys to see how tight it is when stuffed. Without having a cropped down pic.
It was really helpful to build it bare frame. Just trying to make sure there wouldn't be any interference.
The frame horns where my guide for the most part.
looks like you have at least an inch or two in there, thats PLENTY :D

also i'm not sure what post it was on, but you were saying how you whack your bumpstops on moguls on your buggy i think, have you ever tried hydraulic bumpstops ? i bet they work sick, i've only seen them on race machines, mostly formula offroad and baja trucks, but ofr the kind of driving you seem like you like to d in your buggy, they gotta be cooler than a chunk of rubber and swayaway has zillions in stock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ya it's tight but I figured it all in with the bump stops. On a super hard hit like getting air it might compress the bump stops but I think I gave it plenty of compression. As far as my buggy goes the stiffer springs made it sit higher thus on high speed running it has more up travel for rough teran. And having all five passengers in it , works out really good. It's a bit stiff with just me in it. I got jolted last time down hitting the moguls at the bottom of a sand hill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·



This is at ride height. The upper link arms are sitting up hill/ not parallel with the lower arms.
Lack of room and an added bonus of this setup rotates the pinion up on full droop or down travel, this helps out the driveline angle and gives it more usable flexibility without binding. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·





The first pic is at ride height showing the steering a bit.
The shock is completely extended and I disconnected the sway bar link on that side (max travel) these are stock length shocks for the rear. You hopefully can see all the reused parts the upper shock mount was cut off and placed behind the coil tower tight but great spot for it. As of now the drive line does bind on the bolt heads at the yoke at full droop I just have to do a little bit of clearencing on the drive shaft is all before it beats up the heads of the bolts. The drive line is Toyota rear constant velocity joint with an isuzu slip welded onto it.
 

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bradzuzu said:
This is at ride height. The upper link arms are sitting up hill/ not parallel with the lower arms.
Lack of room and an added bonus of this setup rotates the pinion up on full droop or down travel, this helps out the driveline angle and gives it more usable flexibility without binding. :)
Yeah that was exactly what I was trying to sort out....I knew the one over the pumpkin had to be uphill...IDK how I feel about the up hill running, then again it's out of the norm so there's gonna be that uneasy feeling. If it was a trail only rig I def see the bonus on drive-ling angle on drop offs...being a mix tho I'ma keep an eye on your highway success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Both upper links run the same way. I can cruse at 90 and it handles Like a stock rig. I've probly put almost ten thousand miles on it already freeway driving. Driving 50 miles a day Ive givin it a good work out. The big huge speed bumps I can hit them at 40 or 50 mph and it glides over them. I do wish that I would have rotated the axles a bit because of the pinion angle I had to pop the welds on the lower arms and grow them about a 1/4 in to dial in the camber. That in turn gave me a little worse of a driveline angle. Live and learn !!!
 

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,and this is why I have two gen II's for parts. One day I will do this :lol:
 
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