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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any other engines, Ford, GM, Nissan, whatever, that can fairly easily be installed in my 2000 Trooper. 90,000 miles. Kind of hate to spend $3k to $6k on another 3.5L if it's going to do the same thing.

I still owe $4k, so I don't want to just dump it. If the new engine will last, I don't mind spending the money (well I do, but it's better than throwing the thing away)

I don't have the expertise, time or tools to tackle it myself, so it would have to be something affordable at a good shop.
 

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Don't know if this is any help to you or not, but buying a brand-new, complete long block from St. Charles will run you ~$4700 shipped, including the new style PCV valve and hose that you'd need. This is the updated version of the 3.5l engine, with the revised-design oil ring lands in the pistons. Shouldn't cost you more than $1k to have it installed, and then you'd have a complete, brand-new engine top to bottom. Ask for Merlin at 1-800-727-8066, and the part number is 8-97360-360-0. He'll get you squared away.
 

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Are you the original owner? If so the 10yr/120Kmi powertrain warranty will cover 100% of the engine r/r.

G/luck
Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm the 2nd owner since 22k miles. It started using alot of oil, qt every 750 or so. The the check engine light would come on. I took it to the dealer, and they said I had warped cylinders or heads. Said it would be 4 or 5k for a rebuild or new engine, used maybe less. The service manager came outside as I was leaving and said I should trade it in, that it wasn't worth the cost & hassle.

I took it to my mechanic for a 2nd opinion, and he said the compression is good, so he didn't know how the dealer could think the cylinders or head were warped without tearing it apart.

So I did some research and found out about the infamous oil problems. I tried the seafoam. Then I had problems with the check engine light on and loss of power momentarily. So I pretty much put it aside for a year, then got back into it, and read about synthetic oil, so now I'm trying that. It seems to run okay, but I haven't gone over 15 miles at a time, so who knows.

That being said, I want to know my options. Thanks for everyones help, and keep the info coming.
 

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So when you initially took it to the dealer to ask about the oil consumption, was it before or after 60k miles?

Also, have you looked into auto-rx? Some people here swear by it. I believe the auto-rx people recommend that you use regular (dino) oil during their cleaning procedure, though.
 

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Here is my take on it.

I would for sure do the cylinder soak.

But why a new engine?

Let's say you spend 4000 to have a new engine installed.

Or you stock up on oil that cost 2 bucks a quart and add some every week. That is 2000 quarts of oil you could buy for that same 4000 dollars. My point is that it is a heck of a lot cheaper to just keep on dumping in more oil then it would be to have a new eninge put in.
 

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Have you looked into getting your existing motor rebuilt.

The oil burning is all related to the pistons/rings. Why replace
everything else.
 
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