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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where to get a gasket for the EGR valve on the 2.6L? I plan to clean mine and want to have a spare gasket in case Murphy stops by.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. But there are two different gaskets on the page. (RockAuto also has two different EGR values for the 2.6L.) Is there any way to tell which I need before I take off the EGR valve and find that I need the gasket?
 

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buy both!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Duh! :oops:
 

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timrkopi said:
buy both!!!!!!!
:lol: That's usually my aproach.

I get all sorts of odd ball spare parts that way.

Jim
 

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update on rockauto.com , they are taking them back and giving a full refund. my confidence has been restored and i wouldn"t want to give them a bad name- they have been decent to deal with, you hav to be persistent, but in the end they helped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am not removing it. I am just cleaning it. I live in MD and failed the emmisions test due to high NO2. The EGR is designed to lower NO2 by recirculating hot emmisions gas into the air/fuel mixture. I have heard of people removing or plugging their EGRs to increase power at the cost of a higher operating temp. This in not an option for me with the MD testing.
 

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when you clean your egr, do you just remove it, use some carb cleaner replace the gasket and reattach? is it that simple? i have been getting fault codes for the egr for a few months and need to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will be doing it for the first time once the gaskets arrive. But from the postings that I have read, the biggest problem appears to be loosening the bolts. I have plenty of WD40 for that and plan to follow these instructions.
 

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From my experience you must remove an EGR valve to clean it.
It has CAKED on carbon that needs to be chiped off. Seafoam and
solvent cleaners work well on grime, varnish, greese, and oil.

Pluging your EGR will not give you more power. It turns off at idle and when there is a vaccume drop (part throttle and full throttle ). If it is
stuck open then you get very eratic idle to the point of dying. It does
kill you MPG though so if it is off all the time "clogged" your MPG goes
up and your NOx emisions sky rockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
By the way, the gaskets from Rockhall arrived in just 2 days. Hopefully the "buy them both" method will work and one will fit.
 

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It's on the backside of your upper plenum (intake). *That boxy thing that says I-tec. If I remember correctly, it's only two bolts. I believe they are 12mm; just like every other bolt on your rig. Should be cake to remove. Use some penetrating lube like WD-40 or PB. And If you use a flathead to pry it off (avoid this), be extra carefull, because you do not want to damage the mating surface between the valve and the intake. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks. It seems like everything I touch on this rig needs lots of penetrating oil.
 

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WD40 is not a good penetrating lub.

The best I ever used was MOPAR heater control valve solvent.
Liquid wrench is a close second.

Gumout I do not think will work.

On my exhaust manifold bolts I sprayed them every day for a week.
Made them nice and loose. Excessive...I guess.
 
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